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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I decided to put this quick post together after completing a Getrag swap on my car recently. While researching the parts that would be needed I found that the information is very sparse and spread out among several different forums. Not only that but most of the information pertains to RTs and SRTs or older LX based cars. There was also some conflicting information regarding what is actually needed depending on the year of car. So the idea was to create a list of required parts, help anyone in the future who is looking to do this swap without having to search the internet for days to get all the information needed.

Below are the parts required for a Getrag swap into a 2011-2014 Challenger SE/SXT. This list may also work for 2009 and 2010 V6 models, but additional parts may be needed such as upgraded hubs.

Doing a swap like this can be considerably cheaper when using mostly used parts. If you don't like the idea of using already used parts, then it may be suggested for you to shop around for a kit. There are a few vendors that sell a differential swap kit, that has everything you'll need to complete the swap.

Differential:
$1,327.50(NEW) - 5038237AH - 3.91 Differential
$1,652.00(NEW) - 4593854AH - 3.73 Differential

If your looking to buy a used unit from wrecked car, shop around and you'll be able to find one in the couple hundred dollar range. Be sure to replace the shaft seals before installing, just for good measure.

Axles:
$284.38(NEW) - 4578733AE - Left 2011-2014 Getrag Axle
$315.06(NEW) - 4578732AE - Right 2011-2014 Getrag Axle

Any axle shafts from a Getrag equipped car will work. This includes any 2011-2014 SRT, and manual RT challengers. If you could find shafts from a SRT Charger they will work also. I would guess that shafts from a SRT 300 would also work but I'm not sure. If buying from a salvage yard, be sure to explain to them that you need certain axles. The systems they use say that shafts from older LX based cars will works the same, this is false.
After receiving your shafts, be sure to check the tone rings. If they are damaged you may need to replace them. You can either use the ones off of your stock axles or there are a few places that sell tone rings, at a hefty price though. The dealer does NOT sell these.

Driveshaft:
$791.78(NEW) - 53010735AE - 2011-2014 SRT Driveshaft
$779.98(NEW) - 52123975AF - 2011-2014 RT Driveshaft

If possible you actually only need the rear half of the driveshaft, unfortunately most people/places do not sell only a half of a driveshaft.

Driveshaft to Differential Coupler:
$136.88(NEW) - 68090505AA - Auto 392 Driveshaft Coupler
$105.02(NEW) - 68090506AA - Manual Coupler

If buying new, I'd sugest buying the manual coupler, as it is the same unit as the automatic version but less expensive. The stock coupler will not bolt up correctly.
A coupler may also come with your differential or driveshaft, so it is recommended to buy this after you have received the differential and driveshaft.
If one comes with either of the two, as mentioned above, be sure to inspect the the coupler for any problems.

Nuts & Bolts:
$2.24(NEW) - 6509315AA - Long Front mount bolt
$8.79(NEW) - 68052356AA - Pink Bolts (3 per part number, 2 required)
$3.07(NEW) - 6509429AA - Pink Nut (1 per part number, 6 required)
$9.38(NEW) - 6506263AA - Axle Nut (1 per part number, 2 required)

The pink bolts and nuts along with the axle nuts are considered one-time use and should not be reused. The pink bolts are stronger versions of the regular bolts, they may not be needed, but if you plan to add some sort of forced induction it may be best to get them now.

Differential mounts:
$4.25(NEW) - 68060181AA - Lower pinion body mount
$5.49(NEW) - 68060180AA - Upper pinion body mount

These are not fully required to replace, as your car will already have them but, if your doing the work to remove and install a differential you may want to replace them.

Other:
$15.16 - 68049799AA - Getrag axle seals (1 per part number, 2 required)
$5.78(NEW) - 4318060AD - 4oz friction modifier
2 quarts 75w-90 Synthetic Fluid

Yet again, it is recommended to replace the seals while doing the install to be sure that they are fresh and unharmed.
The friction modifier may or may not be required, depending on what brand of gear fluid you use.


Tips:
When doing the swap be sure to watch the tone rings when installing, the slightest scrape on something can make these gives ABS codes.
When installing the shafts, be sure to keep an eye on the seals on the differential. The seals can easily be ripped which will result in it leaking oil.


Prices given are the current going price of each part at Steve White Motors. I included all part numbers to help with ordering or verification of said parts. Feel free to ask questions if you are attempting to do this swap.
 
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Nice write up thanks.

Not sure at what point a v6 ever needs a getrag, I'm in the 12's right now and still running a 3.64 open diff which spins both tires and I have no issue with traction yet even with 1.90 60ft. I spent maybe 350 bucks to do my swap- 2.65 to 3.64.

It is nice to see everything together on one page I went thru several posts and forums to try and figure out what I needed to do my swap back when I did it and also did a small write up.

I have been toying with the idea of the 4.30 gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I figured I might as well get a getrag so I don't have to worry about whether or not both wheels will spin, later down the road. I also didn't want to be attempting to change out ring and pinion myself, so the 3.73 getrag was a good choice for me. I paid a good chunk more than you did for your swap, but still came in at less than half the price of the kits Speedlogix sells.

Unfortunately I'm now dealing with a small/slow leak at the passenger side shaft seal of the differential. Everything was good till the other day when I noticed a little oil residue on the case. Wiped it off but it was back when i checked today after a days worth of driving. I'm unsure of whether I want to rip it all apart again and replace the seal or just pay to have it done. After having worked on this swap I want nothing to do with dropping a differential or installing one, but paying a hefty fee for convenience really sucks.


On a side note, 4.30 gears would be pretty wild with that supercharger on top.
 

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I was looking at it from the size of things, getrag being stronger and not worrying about breaking parts, the spin the both tires didn't really think about since folks that have getrag I guess don't spin both tires at times and maybe I'm wrong here, that makes them not much better than the open rear ends, I get it, they are designed to spin both tires but not always, there is a guy on the youtube who switch to a getrag so he could make sure he will spin both tires all the time and still does one wheel peels at times he also checked with other mopar guys and found out he is not the only one with issues at having one wheels peels with a getrag.

I just think your odds are better with a getrag to spin both tires but it comes with no guarantee.

I think this information should be added so if someone thinks a getrag is a guarantee to both tires spinning every time, they should be aware it's not, just your odds are better I guess.

I stay with the smaller parts, takes less hp to turn them, if the day ever comes that I'm breaking a 198mm rear end on a regular basis I will think about upgrading, for right now I'm hooking up and not spinning and that's all I need out of my rear end for now.

As far as the 4.30 gears, those would get me more off the line maybe some 1.80's even and it adds 1 more full gear to the 1/4 mile to still allow me a full pull at max rpm, right now it's 3rd gear at 6800, it would be 4th gear at 6800 crossing the line give or take a few hundred rpm point being it's not like the car shifts just before the finish line. It's a matter of me finding a way to do the job cheap. I have to buy a used getrag cheap, gears are 400 bucks, then I will need to find axles and then set up the gears myself.


After I did my rear end I didn't want to mess with it again, give it a few weeks, you already know how things go back together and come apart, it won't take no time at all to fix your leak, and you'll feel great after you fix it. There has been times I wanted to pay others, but once I buckled down and just did it, it wasn't so bad.
 

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I’m a little late to this discussion, but since you can use either a RT or SRT driveshaft. Does that mean I could get an aftermarket SRT driveshaft, like a carbon one?
 
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