Thank you. I have paid dearly to learn how to upgrade the suspension. This is even the second HC!DGatzby,
That was a great rundown on upgrading our cars for taking them on the track in the other thread. In this thread you say you swap out your rotors between track and street events. How hard is that to do? If you swap brake pads as you do at the same time is there an order to do that? I'm just not familiar, but I do have a lift and jack that could handle doing it.
Also, can you clarify which Hawk pad model your are recommending? You mention "DTC-60's work. I have used the DTC-70's for years". Is there a thread here on how to replace brake fluid, or a video you can recommend on how to DIY?
It really is not that hard to change the rotors. Just be careful not to nick anything and to have a good bungy or two ready to temporally hold the calipers. You need to remove the pads to remove the calipers. So the change over to other pads is part of the labor anyway. Once the bolts are removed the calipers come away, the rotors are then free to remove, and replace. I actually think the rears are more difficult because if you upgrade to some trailing arms, the arm/bolt on the wheel hub may be in the way of the bottom rear caliper bolt.
Good thing is especially after race days the calipers can be completely cleaned, taking them off the rotors which is major important! Plus putting it into beast mode before races lets me really look and feel everything and make sure it is okay to go myself.
Hawk has a DTC line. It is comparable with a couple of other brands. For the pads don’t skimp, you need to pay to play, our cars are heavy and lots of heat is generated in the brakes. I use DTC-70’s.
On the fluid, I have purchased it and just taken it to a professional and let them change and/or bleed them. That is just me, it is not that hard, but to me it is a PIA and I want it done right. One less worry, I have forgot or screwed something up.