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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 challenger rt classic
I’ve had the car over a year I bought it at 27k miles now it has around 42k miles the car recently died on my after coming to a complete stop and when ever I accelerate I can see the rpms flutter doing down and back up rapidly in small increments I’ve only put 93 octane in the car and recently changed spark plugs I put ngk in and did an oil change

I got told to check my air-fuel ratio sensors or maybe a fuel pump but I haven’t took it back to the dealership.

Any help would be appreciated
 

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I had an instance where the rpms, on my 2009 SRT (6.1) starting jumping wildly while accelerating onto an interstate highway.

I took it to the dealer and they could not find a problem. While it was there they downloaded a driveability upgrades to the PCM and TIPM and the rpm issue has not reappeared in 12 months.

They charged a $150 to scan the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had an instance where the rpms, on my 2009 SRT (6.1) starting jumping wildly while accelerating onto an interstate highway.

I took it to the dealer and they could not find a problem. While it was there they downloaded a driveability upgrade and the rpm issue has not reappeared in 12 months.
Yeah I’m just waiting to hear from people before I take it to the dealership because I know there starting rate just to look at the car before they do anything is $165

I’ve had the car on a couple of different scanners and it doesn’t show anything and I’ve never had a check engine light , even when the car dies on me
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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No CEL and thus no active codes. Any pending codes?

Reads like a fuel pump. The ones that intermittently act up are a real pain to diagnose. That is one would like some high confidence diagnosis the fuel pump is the problem. My offering a WAG it is the fuel pump is not that high confidence diagnosis.

Other possible explanations: From experience with another car, I know an air leak can make for an erratic idle and the CEL can remain dark. With this car I had two air leaks. Bad air/oil separator one time and another time the oil filler tube cap developed a leak due to age.

Yet another source of an erratic idle was a bad variable intake cam timing solenoid. In this case idle speed was really up and down. But while there was no CEL there was a pending code which pointed at the variable cam timing solenoid.

Absent real time monitoring of the fuel pressure which is a real pain to arrange -- and I frankly am very reluctant to "mess" with the fuel system of a car due to concerns about the risk of a fuel leak and resulting fire -- not sure how you can confirm the fuel pump is the culprit, or on the flip side give it the all clear.
 

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2014 R/T Classic 6-speed
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Just looking back at the work you just performed, I'd double-check the coil packs are snapped onto the plugs well, and there's no boot damage. If a boot is "leaking", you could get an intermittent stumble. Also check the coil pack harness connectors.

If that all checks out, I always start with the simple things I can do myself. Do a thorough "wiggle" check on all the connectors, hoses, etc., you can get your hands on. Could be something simple like a connector or hose that became partially dislodged during your recent service.

A can of ether is useful to find vacuum leaks. Start the engine, and spray a few shots around the vacuum lines, ports, manifold-to-head joints, etc. A leak will make the engine RPM pick up momentarily.

At least if you can't find the problem from the above simple steps, you'll know, and won't pay someone big bucks to reconnect a hose, or something else easy.

Good luck, and keep us posted on how things progress.

JD
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just looking back at the work you just performed, I'd double-check the coil packs are snapped onto the plugs well, and there's no boot damage. If a boot is "leaking", you could get an intermittent stumble. Also check the coil pack harness connectors.

If that all checks out, I always start with the simple things I can do myself. Do a thorough "wiggle" check on all the connectors, hoses, etc., you can get your hands on. Could be something simple like a connector or hose that became partially dislodged during your recent service.

A can of ether is useful to find vacuum leaks. Start the engine, and spray a few shots around the vacuum lines, ports, manifold-to-head joints, etc. A leak will make the engine RPM pick up momentarily.

At least if you can't find the problem from the above simple steps, you'll know, and won't pay someone big bucks to reconnect a hose, or something else easy.

Good luck, and keep us posted on how things progress.

JD
I’ll try that if I can’t find anything I can always contact the dealership but I believe it’s more of a fuel problem because the car died when I came to a complete stop the car shut off for a reason and I know that’s not battery or alt and I just cleaned my throttle body
 

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