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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased some Mopar stage one springs from a co-worker for a steal ($50 never installed). When I get them installed since the shop is going to drop the rear subframe to do it I was planning on installing BMR upper control arms at the same time.

My question is, should I go with the fixed control arms or the adjustable? As well as for sway bar end links, are fixed ok or will I need adjustable?
Is there any benefit to the adjustable parts at the minimal drop of the Mopar springs?
 

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Adjustable is good especially if you road course the car. I went with Whiteline adjustable swaybars, has three points of adjustment, put mine in the middle adjustment hole, also used Sphon endlinks.

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Discussion Starter #3
Adjustable is good especially if you road course the car. I went with Whiteline adjustable swaybars, has three points of adjustment, put mine in the middle adjustment hole, also used Sphon endlinks.

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I’m planning to go with BMR for most of the parts, they’ve got a great rep with the camaro and mustang crowd. Had a good experience so far with their parts on my mustang, and it helps that they manufacture and sell them direct so cuts down the cost. Really I’m just thinking if it’s necessary to go with adjustable control arms or if the fixed are ok. I assume the adjustable stuff needs to be checked for alignment much more often and is more prone to getting out of alignment. I don’t have much experience with the adjustable stuff.
 

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Why would you drop the subframe to install the rear springs. Its 2 bolts on each side to change them. Shock bolt and lower control arm where it bolts to the subframe. I just did my rear springs, about 20-30 min for each side. Find a new shop that actually knows what they are doing. Dont be paying $$ for someones incompetence.
 

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Why would you drop the subframe to install the rear springs. Its 2 bolts on each side to change them. Shock bolt and lower control arm where it bolts to the subframe. I just did my rear springs, about 20-30 min for each side. Find a new shop that actually knows what they are doing. Dont be paying $$ for someones incompetence.
And did you realign it afterwards, and was it in spec? I don’t care whether you did it without dropping it honestly. You don’t know what shop I’m using and have no idea of the kind of work that comes out of that shop. I’m not f*ing up my car because some backyard mechanic has some other way of doing it. There’s a reason that Chrysler specified to drop the cradle in the install instructions.
 

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Yes i did get it aligned. Yes it was out of spec. About the backyard mechanic crack, i am not. I am a professional. Its my job, career. Just trying to give you some friendly advice. Dont give a crap what dodge says. Ive done them and will do more in the future. Check my build out before you think im backyard.
 

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Yes i did get it aligned. Yes it was out of spec. About the backyard mechanic crack, i am not. I am a professional. Its my job, career. Just trying to give you some friendly advice. Dont give a crap what dodge says. Ive done them and will do more in the future. Check my build out before you think im backyard.
Well I actually design parts for all the major OEMs, I’ve seen many people call themselves “pro” mechanics and then us engineers end up finding things they’ve screwed up because they found an easier way to do something. There’s a reason we design them certain ways and all repair or installation manuals are written for a reason. I didn’t design the suspension for the challenger, but I can assure you there’s a reason for the designer saying the subframe should be dropped to change the springs. And it’s not “for the dealers to charge more for labor”
 

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Engineers are the worst. You guys design crap then us auto techs( yes thats what i am) have to change them out when the crap wears out. We cut book times to make $$. All shops do. If you cant cut the book time your gone. Useless in busy shops. Stick to the book and waste $$. Sounds like its right up your alley.
Ive got people who scratch their heads when i show them my car. Its an '11 sxt chassis with '15 r/t everything. Good luck engineering that. Smh and laughing
 

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One more thing. Ive got the Holley intake on my car. They say it was ENGINEERED to be direct bolt on. Im here to tell you it isnt. Takes know how and knowledge in the real world application to do things sometimes.
 
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