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Discussion Starter #1
Been a heck of a year for the scat. Points victory in Neb scca autox cam class, an invite to the cam challenge and getting stomped by the most fun group in the paddock at nationals. Even got to play on the road course once. Can't wait for 2016!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXz77ipGdTE last event of nebraska autox season.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZ6gOpdUukQ Boo bash at raceway park of the midlands.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzStAYoWBrc Cam Challenge at nationals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIbCk9AwELA Scca nationals east course
 

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This stuff is so much fun. Addictive. I've found that Challengers can be very competitive in the wider, more open courses. Your Scat pack looks pretty well hooked up and definitely has a lot less roll than my '10 R/T. Watching these is a lot of fun and makes me want 2016 to come sooner! Thanks for posting.
 

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Nice runs. Nice open course with a bit of distance to them to! The cars are just a blast.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It has mopar stage 1 springs and sway bars. Looking to do adjustable front upper control arms to get more front camber and adj sway bar end links this winter. Took a temp gun to the last event and found out i was only effectively using 75% of the front tires. Need more camber to get better front bite, these things really like to push in hard corners.
 

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You not kidding about the push. I have been trying to figure out something to try to get it to a neutral handling setup. I think my next investment will be the the whiteline adjustable swaybars, but the control arms seems like a better choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Slow in, fast out is my mantra at events. Giving it up at the entrance of the corner and not plowing off line helps you stay in the groove and get back on power sooner. With all the late apex corners in autox, it works pretty well most the time. I need to practice on braking more this year to help get into the corner deeper with more speed. I've only got 4k miles on the car so we still have a lot to teach each other in terms of trusting how far to push.
 

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Just curious are you a left or right foot braker? I've heard people say left foot braking will decrease your time slightly. I've been a righty myself but thought I might give it a shot.

Sent from my SM-S765C using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i'm a right foot breaker. I'd like to learn heel/toe for road course events but don't see where that will do much at an autox where you dump it in 2nd and run the course most times. Guess i need to learn both...lol
 

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2013 Challenger SRT8
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working with 18's and 295's all around will increase your contact patch and hooking abilities with a Hoosier A7 while dropping your gravity center by 1.5" inch
or you can get 275's BFG Comp 2 as they have really sturdy sidewalls for the job

I have always seen left foot braking guys sticking a second or 2 to the right foot peeps; i started to left foot brake in road course but it really calls for a racing seat that hugs you well as you get tossed in there and the left foot is often a way to balance your body when seated in the baggy SRT seats

street tires are not really meant for more than 2 degrees of negative camber; for autocross running 2.5, 2.75 or 3 is kind of required with some comp tires that can take and work with that kind of camber; get the tab system from SX for Front A Arms; Easy to set up and comes with 90 durometer bushings; they will give you the negative 3 with no sweat;

I have the REM A Arms and they are a PITA to set; I do not recommend

aggressive toe out on all 4 corners is required as wheel alignment is crucial in autox

finally forget bushings sway bars and all that jazz; it is a complete waste; even tower braces are not really that required;

stick the best you can afford tires and shocks;

get some adjustable sway bar links, preload to your liking the sway bars links so the SRT stock sway bars are engaged immediately and you balance rear / front loads pretty effectively; get these stock bars to actually do some work; once you have broken one then change them

finally THE bushing to pull out and replace, if your 2015 allows, is the Radius Arm bushing, that's the bushing to replace; what I did is buy a front Radius Arm bushing for a < 2011 SRT8, stick in a whiteline front radius arm bushing and done; that upgrade alone was tremendous with steering and braking stability; also note the stock radius arm bushing is real piece of crap; be warned

also the arm was shorter by 8mm so I increased caster without asking for it

show the Evo and WRX what are we made of;

Good luck

ODP
 

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.. and since auto -x does not seem to measure track width opposed to AIX, TA and other series, stick some 315/30 x 18 all around on custom wheels; give the weight of the tank not a bad idea; the BFG R1S comes in this size (P315/30ZR18); at this point you will win pretty much anything you want even if you are hungover from the night before....

with the 18's on I would bet you can still clear the front fender; they do 325's on Camaroz all around so the Challenger with the correct offset can most likely accommodate

ODP
 

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Discussion Starter #18
sx control arms, who makes those?

i'm in cam class so we are locked into 200tw tires, no slicks allowed. I'd have to go to e street prepared to run slicks and i'd get slaughtered in that class.

I'll have to try the 18's out come spring. My buddy has a set of 18x9.5 wheels he may be selling off his sti. I can at least borrow them to see if they clear. I know the mustangs run a 19" wheel to clear the caliper.

The biggest issue i'd face with a shorter tire is giving up mph on course. With the 6spd and 3:92 gears, i'm in fuel cut at 64mph in 2nd gear. The new mustangs are turning 8200 rpm and running 74+ mph in 2nd on longer courses. I'd hate to give up more speed than i am now.

I'm trying to not spend a bunch on the car. I'm building a 69 valiant for autox and the challenger is just to use while i work on the valiant. The challenger will probably be a track day car once the other one is done.

Thanks for the advise!
 

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2013 Challenger SRT8
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the inside of a 18" Bravado Tribute, in 9" width with 20mm offset has 16.5" in the inside when measured at the flange; the 6 piston brembo is a 15.4" rotor

if you look at the picture the caliper takes another 3/4 of an inch on top of the rotor so yes very likely the Bravado will clear by 3/8th the front brake system which is fine; worth trying

i just measured my bravado's as it seats under my family bed during the winter; there is nothing better than a nice reak of tire smell when I wake up in the am

so it is a "hot" measurement as you can tell....LOL

pix attached.

at 155 bucks buy one and try to slap it onto it; if it does not work ship it back to Summit Racing
one guy on the forum did it: search bravado
dont know if he had the big brake option

with a 18 x 10 you stick 285's 295's or 275's; a stretched 275's on a 10" rim BFG Comp 2 will be solid as rock on the sidewall and with 2 degrees of negative camber that will kick asses

then you can get the hoosier A7 or the 275 BFG R1S if the wallet allows then you can go to 2.75/3 degrees of negative camber with some aggressive toe out and your challenger lowered by 2 to 3 inch will start to woop some serious butts

this thread is like porn to me

gotta have dinner

ODP
 

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