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Discussion Starter #1
I'm selling off my bracket car and going back to racing a street car. Most likely will order an 2020 Challenger. I read all the hype about the 1320 cars being .3 faster and built for racing. Marketing hype? Are they worth the $4k price tag? I could car less about being a tad quicker and won't be using the trans brake or launch control. I would have to order a pair of tires with either car (front street tires for the 1320 and drag radials for the scat). I have seen all the hype but haven't found anyone actually competing in a 1320.

Questions:

Are the tunes the same for both cars?
Are the torque converter specs the same as far as stall speed?
Active suspension is a big question. How much of a benefit is it over a non 1320?
Issues being Dis Qualified for having a "trans brake" in the car in foot break only class?
Are the drive trains the same in both cars?


I did have a 2015 Scat A8 and it was a pretty good bracket car out of the box with drag radials.
 

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IMO , the only difference that would apply for you is the stall. The 1320 comes with a higher stall. Not exactly sure of the rpm, but has been stated to be higher. Obviously I would also opt for the 4pot Brembos if you get another scatpack. Susp/wheels/trans brake/ LC/ all mean nothing to me either, as I foot brake my car , and anything else mentioned I ie. susp, etc .. I would utilize my own preferred parts.


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Has the bigger 41 spline halfshafts, driveshaft might be better too not sure. Maybe Demon case too. Has Drag Mode and different shocks for front end lift.




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Discussion Starter #4
The higher stall would be a reason to go for a 1320. I couldn't foot break high enough in the 2015 A8 to cut a light even deep. I think the highest it would go was around 2K without pushing forward. I need to foot brake and leave at 2500-2800 deep. I have no issues deep staging a car. The work around was going shallow off idle on the second amber, taking advantage of the built in fly by wire delay. Down side was that I was unable to enter any event using a Pro 500 tree like Open Comp. I want to keep the warranty and not be forced to install a stall converter or a 3.90 rear end to cut lights on the 3rd amber or Pro tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Has the bigger 41 spline halfshafts, driveshaft might be better too not sure. Maybe Demon case too. Has Drag Mode and different shocks for front end lift.




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Slidd, don;t know if that is the case. Both cars have 230mm rears. I had over 400 runs on the 2015 on drag radials and had no issues. I do worry about drag racing a car with IRS. I never encountered will spin or hop with the MT Drag radials. I never had any traction issues so the weight transfer will be better in the 1320 but not required for a hook. Actually the 1320 car may RT slower due to the extra front lift (car going up instead of out). Just thought of that maybe issue.
 

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The higher stall would be a reason to go for a 1320. I couldn't foot break high enough in the 2015 A8 to cut a light even deep. I think the highest it would go was around 2K without pushing forward. I need to foot brake and leave at 2500-2800 deep. I have no issues deep staging a car. The work around was going shallow off idle on the second amber, taking advantage of the built in fly by wire delay. Down side was that I was unable to enter any event using a Pro 500 tree like Open Comp. I want to keep the warranty and not be forced to install a stall converter or a 3.90 rear end to cut lights on the 3rd amber or Pro tree.
I run the stock stall, with a 3.70 and a 30” tire. Rear swap I’ve done by myself in my driveway three times in less than 3 hours. I’m a little indecisive . Forgot about the half shafts , but (assuming you’re going in the 12.5 index) at close to stock power , I wouldn’t be too concerned.


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Discussion Starter #8

A Guy
I would love to get in contact with someone in the know at Dodge. I have a lot of questions. lol
 

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I'm selling off my bracket car and going back to racing a street car. Most likely will order an 2020 Challenger. I read all the hype about the 1320 cars being .3 faster and built for racing. Marketing hype? Are they worth the $4k price tag? I could car less about being a tad quicker and won't be using the trans brake or launch control. I would have to order a pair of tires with either car (front street tires for the 1320 and drag radials for the scat). I have seen all the hype but haven't found anyone actually competing in a 1320.

Questions:

Are the tunes the same for both cars?
Are the torque converter specs the same as far as stall speed?
Active suspension is a big question. How much of a benefit is it over a non 1320?
Issues being Dis Qualified for having a "trans brake" in the car in foot break only class?
Are the drive trains the same in both cars?


I did have a 2015 Scat A8 and it was a pretty good bracket car out of the box with drag radials.
In Drag Mode, the shift points are higher in the 1320 than the Scat, and are scaled specifically for drag racing.

As far as I have learned, the 1320 has a higher stall speed.

The suspension on the 1320 is different than the track suspension in the Scat; it is built specifically for drag racing, and yes, it makes a huge difference. Below is a picture of a 1320 lifting the front wheels off at launch; at the time of this pic, the 1320 was stock except for an LMI intake, brand of drag radial on back, and the skinnies. I haven't seen any pics of any stock Scats lifting the front wheels.

Whether you'd be DQ'd for simply having a tb or not, you'll have to answer for yourself. All I can tell you is I've run almost 20 times and have yet to be able to effectively use the transbrake when staging without missing the light.

The 1320 comes with the HP70 transmission; I'm not sure what the 2019 Scats come with (may be the same).

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Discussion Starter #10
I run the stock stall, with a 3.70 and a 30” tire. Rear swap I’ve done by myself in my driveway three times in less than 3 hours. I’m a little indecisive . Forgot about the half shafts , but (assuming you’re going in the 12.5 index) at close to stock power , I wouldn’t be too concerned.


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The reason for me selling off the race car and going to a street car is cost and maintenance. Having a warranty is a prime motivation for getting a Challenger. I'm 64 and having issues turning wrenches. A simple valve lash adjustment is becoming hard (I have paws not hands lol). They have a 11.50 index here however the car will be a tad slow down here especially in the Florida heat. A low 12 second high 11 second car is perfect for me. With a 12.0 can I can judge a 9.0 opponent at the finish. I have no intentions of increasing the HP of the car at any time. IMO keeping it stock will keep the car from breaking. Folks always encounter breakage issues (in all brands) when increasing the engine power.
 

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In Drag Mode, the shift points are higher in the 1320 than the Scat, and are scaled specifically for drag racing.

As far as I have learned, the 1320 has a higher stall speed.

The suspension on the 1320 is different than the track suspension in the Scat; it is built specifically for drag racing, and yes, it makes a huge difference. Below is a picture of a 1320 lifting the front wheels off at launch; at the time of this pic, the 1320 was stock except for an LMI intake, brand of drag radial on back, and the skinnies. I haven't seen any pics of any stock Scats lifting the front wheels.

Whether you'd be DQ'd for simply having a tb or not, you'll have to answer for yourself. All I can tell you is I've run almost 20 times and have yet to be able to effectively use the transbrake when staging without missing the light.

The 1320 comes with the HP70 transmission; I'm not sure what the 2019 Scats come with (may be the same).

View attachment 979288
Green machine is running a 3.90 , Lmi is good for up to .2 et , and skinnies lose about 50 pounds off the front. Very much different from stock.


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I think I'd look for a used 2015-17 Scat and change a few parts to make it perform at least as well as the 1320 version.

I need to see more info about the .3 quicker. There are a few of them out there running and I do beleive "out of the box" they may be quicker due to the converter and drag mode.
But you can swap the converter/gears and add Demon/1320 or aftermarket Demon Killer springs pretty easily with some Lakewood or Viking shocks.

As you mentioned, a dead hook is a dead hook and after that, it's mostly semantics. Who cares if it pulls the wheels? That's just wasted energy.

If you're actually going to drive the car daily, Eco mode is nice for fuel savings and incliment weather and I don't beleive the 1320 offers that drive mode, but the older cars can have it with a Tazer (or if you buy the SRT 392 or 2019+ Scats).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
In Drag Mode, the shift points are higher in the 1320 than the Scat, and are scaled specifically for drag racing.

As far as I have learned, the 1320 has a higher stall speed.

The suspension on the 1320 is different than the track suspension in the Scat; it is built specifically for drag racing, and yes, it makes a huge difference. Below is a picture of a 1320 lifting the front wheels off at launch; at the time of this pic, the 1320 was stock except for an LMI intake, brand of drag radial on back, and the skinnies. I haven't seen any pics of any stock Scats lifting the front wheels.

Whether you'd be DQ'd for simply having a tb or not, you'll have to answer for yourself. All I can tell you is I've run almost 20 times and have yet to be able to effectively use the transbrake when staging without missing the light.

The 1320 comes with the HP70 transmission; I'm not sure what the 2019 Scats come with (may be the same).

View attachment 979288
I take it that you have a 1320. Just to make it clear the that the trans brake is difficult to use in eliminations. I believe it doesn't have a 2 step which makes it cumbersome to use and set before the tree comes down.
 

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Green machine is running a 3.90 , Lmi is good for up to .2 et , and skinnies lose about 50 pounds off the front. Very much different from stock.


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The post where I got the picture from said pic was taken before 3.90 installed...take it for what it's worth, but I know my 1320 definitely outpulls my '15 Scat.
 

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The post where I got the picture from said pic was taken before 3.90 installed...take it for what it's worth, but I know my 1320 definitely outpulls my '15 Scat.
I don’t doubt some are a bit quicker. I’ve just seen so many impressive Hemi’s to give any the upper hand. Some scats fun faster than others as well. I’ve seen many stock 392 go mid to high 11’s , also seen many go low 12’s. But the same apply to 1320’s. Some have nailed down mid 11’s while others have struggled to break out of 12’s. Here’s the link for the video. Please don’t get me wrong , the 1320 is still a very impressive car.
 

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The post where I got the picture from said pic was taken before 3.90 installed...take it for what it's worth, but I know my A8 1320 definitely outpulls my manual '15 Scat.
Fixed it for ya ;)

The A8 has such a gearing advantage over your old M6.
 

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I ran my 1320 for the first time on Friday night. Only 1300 miles, so it's not close to broken in yet. I swapped out the 4 drag radials for a set of P275 Pirelli P-Zeros, and didn't have time to throw on the Drag Radials that I have mounted on a set of Demon reproduction wheels. Other than that, it's 100% stock as delivered, factory fill oil and paper air filter.

Best run was 12.10 @ 114.36. Still have some room for improvement on launch and my last R/T improved .25 after it got about 7,000 miles on it.

That said, I think with more practice and some more miles, it's a legit 11 second car before using drag radials or transbrake, or removing seats, weight, etc. I'm (an athletic) 217lbs, but could probably stand to be the first weight reduction mod.
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks to all for the reply's I'm still looking for a definite answer. Are the torque converter specs different and is the tuning different and in what ways. I plan to do some semi serious bracket racing which means I need a car that can cut 000-040 lights and run dead on the predicted numbers( doesn't matter how fast 12.1 or 13.1 same thing dead on is dead on). I wasn't able to foot brake my 2015 Scat high enough to cut a light even deep staged. The max rpm was around 2000 and I need to rev to 2800-3000. Yes the launch control had a setting for 3000 but never never worked that high. My work around was going shallow off idle on the second amber. Works fine except leaves out any event running on a Pro 500 tree. The other issue in the 2015 was that it would run .04 slower for no reason 3rd, 4th , or 5th round. Work around was holding numbers and backing into the stripe. Again not an issue however being able to dial "honest" would be a nice change up pitch. So if the 1230 has a 3000 stall converter and better programming to improve consistanty its well worth the option price. I guess that is my real question. Thanks again for all the reply's
 

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The 1320 has a noticeably looser converter, need to find the actual specs. It does similar cooling as the Demon to avoid heatsoak. I ran 3 times in a row, in the lanes for no more than 2 minutes. Ran 12.10, 12.22, 12.23. the last two were off due to spin, not heatsoak. Hard to quantify since I was using street tires not slicks or DRs, but it was evident it was spin off the line.
 
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