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Discussion Starter #41
I found some of my old time slips from racing the 2015 Scat. Heat soaked, 50lbs front tires, 18-20 rear tires, shallow staged off idle on 2nd amber. 60' was high 1.80's to low 1.90's. 1/8 mile ET was in the low 8 second range at around 85mph. Stock except for MT drag radials. This was my bracket racing setup and yielded good lights. This car allowed me to be competitive in such classes as Pro Elimination at Atco for example, I have never taken that car to Atco but simply use that for reference as to what a crazy hard track Atco is to race on.. $4K question is will a 1320 make for a better bracket car?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I know that bracket racing is going against the grain of what most are doing on here. I need to be able to adjust the car so I can cut ETs in the .00x to .04x range. Possible but not often you can get a win with a .100 or worse light. I agree driving a street car to track and then lifting the front tires is amazing.
 

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I know that bracket racing is going against the grain of what most are doing on here. I need to be able to adjust the car so I can cut ETs in the .00x to .04x range. Possible but not often you can get a win with a .100 or worse light. I agree driving a street car to track and then lifting the front tires is amazing.
I got this car in August of last year. Only got to do 69 runs before the tracks closed. This was my first A8 Challenger; my previous one (2015 6M Scat) was more of a show car that I raced, but I had over 175 runs in it. Basically what I'm saying is, last year I was on the track merely to run "balls to the wall" to get a feel for the car. I was more interested in seeing how it ran than winning.

This year, I hope to be far more competitive in both Index and Bracket racing. Due to circumstances, many of the mods I wanted to do this winter will not get done, thus I'll be running primarily stock all this coming season. Thus, I'll be running mainly in the 12.50 Index and trying to figure out how to let up or slow down enough to be competitive.

For Bracket races, I'm slowly analyzing the data I recorded for each of my runs from last season, looking to understand how this beast behaves in high DA environments. I think I know the range of ET's I'll be running in, but want to see if the data gives me any insight. I need to bend the ear of some experienced bracket racers (but not in the staging lanes, where they're as apt to gaslight me as inform me) to understand better the nuances of setting my time and recognizing the signs of when/where to lift off the gas.
 

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What rear tire are running? And size? That launch is awesome.
MT ET Street Rs, 305/45/18 on Bravada Tribute wheels. These tires are STICKY! I've spun them on the wheels twice now; never did that with my M&H Racemasters (in fairness, those were only 275/45/18)
 

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I know that bracket racing is going against the grain of what most are doing on here. I need to be able to adjust the car so I can cut ETs in the .00x to .04x range. Possible but not often you can get a win with a .100 or worse light. I agree driving a street car to track and then lifting the front tires is amazing.
In actual competition, yea its the reaction time that's really showing up to hurt me. Last year I averaged high 0.100 to low 0.200s but you're right, that's not going to cut it in competition. Any tips?

Last year, I tried using my peripheral vision to detect the "go" bulb; it seemed to work as my RT's overall went down...but I get hung up on the anticipation of the bulb. This year, early on, I'm going to try looking "into the bulb" and blocking any anticipation to see if that helps.
 

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Was the 1320 discontinued?

I don't see it on the P&B page.
From what I've been hearing, it's going to be a late offering, much like it was for 2019. Don't know for sure, but haven't read anything to indicate they're not going to continue to offer the 1320 option.
 

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The 2020 press release from FCA showed it on there so guess it will be on the way at some point.

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Lifting the front tire on a stock or near stock car is impressive. Interesting that a 3.90 gear swap created errors. From what I have gathered a tune isn't required. It's not a ring and pinion change but replacement of the entire rear assembly. After all the research I still haven't found anything that shows a 1320 is more competitive to bracket race that a Scat Pack, Yes the 1320 comes with stuff but for $4K how much do they help in bracket competition? Picture of Atco is amazing. Been a long while since I was able to park my car in Atco Winners Circle at the end of the day.
with modern vehicles the diagnostics / monitoring of OBD-II has mph / rpm / gear ranges within a tolerance to detect if there's any malfunction with the transmission. Its to keep from grenading a very expensive automatic

so when there's vastly different tire sizes, > 4% differential between front and rear tires or different final drive ratios beyond what it was configured, it will drop into Limp Home mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I have to disagree with this. I had a 2015 A8 Scat and ran a 1" shorter than stock drag radial with no issues. Many here run 17" drag radials which are much shorter (better overall gear ratio) with no issues. Lots of post of hell cat owners going to 3.09 or 3.90 gears with no need to program or limp mode issues. I don't see this as an issue as there should be more limp mode posts. No flames but I haven't seen your statement to be true. I am here to learn sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I got this car in August of last year. Only got to do 69 runs before the tracks closed. This was my first A8 Challenger; my previous one (2015 6M Scat) was more of a show car that I raced, but I had over 175 runs in it. Basically what I'm saying is, last year I was on the track merely to run "balls to the wall" to get a feel for the car. I was more interested in seeing how it ran than winning.

This year, I hope to be far more competitive in both Index and Bracket racing. Due to circumstances, many of the mods I wanted to do this winter will not get done, thus I'll be running primarily stock all this coming season. Thus, I'll be running mainly in the 12.50 Index and trying to figure out how to let up or slow down enough to be competitive.

For Bracket races, I'm slowly analyzing the data I recorded for each of my runs from last season, looking to understand how this beast behaves in high DA environments. I think I know the range of ET's I'll be running in, but want to see if the data gives me any insight. I need to bend the ear of some experienced bracket racers (but not in the staging lanes, where they're as apt to gaslight me as inform me) to understand better the nuances of setting my time and recognizing the signs of when/where to lift off the gas.
I highly recommend you do the driver mod. Bud McNasby-Lee Zane bracket school. Bud can help. The art of bracket racing is very complex and difficult. Bud is a multi time Atco champ. If you can be competitive in Pro at Atco you can run anywhere including big $$$ races.
 

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Guys some of these comments are silly. A 1320 Scat Pack is a Scat Pack with different struts, converter, and came with a drag radial from the factory. Very very cool, but literally that's the only real difference.

The trans brake feature is neat, but a novelty as the fastest 1320 cars have gone off the foot brake.

Secondly, there is guys that have gone midd 11's with Scat Packs on factory converters, factory tune, and factory suspension.

My statements earlier aren't to bash a 1320 owner or take away from a really good 1/4 mile time, but to say a stock Scat Pack can't run similar ET is false.

Fact is every person running these times are doing so on aftermarket wheels, weight savings of some sort, and usually skinnies - so technically not stock either.

When someone takes a full weight 1320, on factory 20's on all 4 corners, with all 4 seats in, and runs a mid 11 I'll say that they are superior cars.
 

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with modern vehicles the diagnostics / monitoring of OBD-II has mph / rpm / gear ranges within a tolerance to detect if there's any malfunction with the transmission. Its to keep from grenading a very expensive automatic

so when there's vastly different tire sizes, > 4% differential between front and rear tires or different final drive ratios beyond what it was configured, it will drop into Limp Home mode.
This is simply not true. I’ve gone back and forth between gear sets enough times to know , along with also running 27” up front and 30” out back with zero issues. The few that I have spoken with that did have an issue said it was a forgotten tone ring in the end of the axle. But I’ve done and seen way too many to say there’s any kind of issue swapping gears.


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This is simply not true. I’ve gone back and forth between gear sets enough times to know , along with also running 27” up front and 30” out back with zero issues. The few that I have spoken with that did have an issue said it was a forgotten tone ring in the end of the axle. But I’ve done and seen way too many to say there’s any kind of issue swapping gears.


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Agree - no issues swapping gears. If the car is having issues with the swap, do a TCU reset by pulling the fuse. Or get it tuned to accomodate the change.

As far as tire size differences there is ZERO issues running a 27 up front and 30 out back.

Sometimes forums are full of bad information that sway people's minds away from doing things.

End of the day these are still mechanical machines, there isnt something voodoo about dodge products vs others.
 

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Guys some of these comments are silly. A 1320 Scat Pack is a Scat Pack with different struts, converter, and came with a drag radial from the factory. Very very cool, but literally that's the only real difference.
SRT-tuned Adaptive Damping Suspension with Drag Mode, Line Lock, TransBrake, Torque Reserve and extreme-duty 41-spline half shafts


A Guy
 

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SRT-tuned Adaptive Damping Suspension with Drag Mode, Line Lock, TransBrake, Torque Reserve and extreme-duty 41-spline half shafts


A Guy
And forged T/A-Daytona wheels with added knurling.


Package is a bargain at $4k compared to other crap like retro decals and hood shakers.
 
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