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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,
I'd Like to follow up and also ask a question in this post
about my problems with BRAKES in my Scat Pack 16

little summary.
-car is april 16 ; 3 months after first little vibration and noise in braking from 60mph.
- report this to the dealer after 6 months; he substituted for free front rotors and Pads ( found hot spots all around rotors).
-I had a track day in Laguna seca after a month ; and after I got the same problem ;he substituted again finding the same problems; ( i reported noise from the back though).
-noise and vibration still
By the way, reading around I saw many people complaining for the same problem

UPDATE
follow the advice of my Dealer (highly recommended if I wanted rear rotors for free..) I contacted FROZEN ROTORS . this company buy high performance Rotors and Criogenics treat them ( increase the density of the metal,aka harder rotors) .( High Performance Brake Pads and Brake Rotors - Frozen Rotors )
Bought them in May
very very hard to bedding. ( pictures included) I had brakes squeal and ' the typical metallic sound when you finish the pads and brakes without) .DEALER SAID IS NORMAL ( cause rotors and pads are both super hard)
JUNE 9 : did a track day in Laguna Seca . after 1 session of 20 min. the situation was very bad. super hard vibration appeared for the second and third . I didn't do last 2 session.
I have attached the pictures of the hotspots in the rotors.
BOTTOM LINE
I NEED TO CHANGE ROTORS AGAIN. I personally believe the problems are the hard Brembo pads and in roadcourse with 2tons car are definetely soffering.
Wasp392 probably remembers the previous conversation ; I do the bedding to all my cars even if the dealer says he did it. So bedding is not the issue.

THOUGHTS?

so my idea is : DRILLS ROTORS and new Pads.
IDEAS?
I REALLY NEED your help guys.
thank you in advance

Fly

ps. Sorry for any english errors..I'm Italian.
 

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Just a thought!
Have you ever checked you brake rotors after some normal driving, for excessive high temperature?
In other words, are there any signs that your brake calipers are not releasing adequately and/or dragging, causing rotors to over heat? Rotors should not get excessively hot from normal driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good point. Usually they are not super hot after a normal drive.
I thought about this too.
I'm really considering to change my rotors with drills one ( like the one in the gt3 or gt4 Porsche) together with a new sets of pads
I like the idea of more heat dissipation

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Good point. Usually they are not super hot after a normal drive.
I thought about this too.
I'm really considering to change my rotors with drills one ( like the one in the gt3 or gt4 Porsche) together with a new sets of pads
I like the idea of more heat dissipation

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
Just a thought... before you spend money to change to different brakes, consider that the problem is not common and thousands not of others have the same brakes without that issue. Maybe you should dig deeper into finding out why your car is having the problem when others do not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I agree
My only concern is:
Where to go?
Should I go to another dodge dealer?
Should I to a tuning shop?

I had and wanted to trust the people who sold me the car.. Unfortunately they havent a solution but change rotors . they drove with me , and they heard the noise during braking. If you have any suggestion please don't hesitate to share!( ps. I'm in north California)
Thanks for your answer.


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You need to make sure your calipers are releasing correctly. Go get the brakes hot then jack up the front, just one side will do, then see if the wheel will rotate freely. From your description it sound like the master cylinder may be holding residual pressure and keeping the calipers applied. If that is the case if you crack open a nleader screw it will release the pressure and alow the calipr to turn. If the wheel wont turn then it means the caliper pistons are sticking. If everything checks ok then your asking too much out of the stock brakes. Hope this helps.
 

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I agree
My only concern is:
Where to go?
Should I go to another dodge dealer?
Should I to a tuning shop?

I had and wanted to trust the people who sold me the car.. Unfortunately they havent a solution but change rotors . they drove with me , and they heard the noise during braking. If you have any suggestion please don't hesitate to share!( ps. I'm in north California)
Thanks for your answer.


Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
I would try another dealer.
Also would consider contacting dodge regional office for help and possibly guidance as to possibility of contacting a brake system specialist that would be covered under warranty.
Assuming you are still being covered under warranty for the ongoing brake problems.
 

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Folks,
I'd Like to follow up and also ask a question in this post
about my problems with BRAKES in my Scat Pack 16

little summary.
-car is april 16 ; 3 months after first little vibration and noise in braking from 60mph.
- report this to the dealer after 6 months; he substituted for free front rotors and Pads ( found hot spots all around rotors).
-I had a track day in Laguna seca after a month ; and after I got the same problem ;he substituted again finding the same problems; ( i reported noise from the back though).
-noise and vibration still
By the way, reading around I saw many people complaining for the same problem

UPDATE
follow the advice of my Dealer (highly recommended if I wanted rear rotors for free..) I contacted FROZEN ROTORS . this company buy high performance Rotors and Criogenics treat them ( increase the density of the metal,aka harder rotors) .( High Performance Brake Pads and Brake Rotors - Frozen Rotors )
Bought them in May
very very hard to bedding. ( pictures included) I had brakes squeal and ' the typical metallic sound when you finish the pads and brakes without) .DEALER SAID IS NORMAL ( cause rotors and pads are both super hard)
JUNE 9 : did a track day in Laguna Seca . after 1 session of 20 min. the situation was very bad. super hard vibration appeared for the second and third . I didn't do last 2 session.
I have attached the pictures of the hotspots in the rotors.
BOTTOM LINE
I NEED TO CHANGE ROTORS AGAIN. I personally believe the problems are the hard Brembo pads and in roadcourse with 2tons car are definetely soffering.
Wasp392 probably remembers the previous conversation ; I do the bedding to all my cars even if the dealer says he did it. So bedding is not the issue.

THOUGHTS?

so my idea is : DRILLS ROTORS and new Pads.
IDEAS?
I REALLY NEED your help guys.
thank you in advance

Fly

ps. Sorry for any english errors..I'm Italian.
The rotors to me don't look to bad for performance application. EBC yellow stuff pads make a rotor look that way. I dont have a picture host atm but Ill snap some pictures and post them.

Do you remember what brand pad they sent you?

I saw your video you may just be at the limit of the cars brakes. The SRT cars have some cooling ducts in the front spoiler maybe your car does not.

EDIT:

Read this on there website. Call em!

At Frozen Rotors (Diversified Cryogenics, Inc.) we get the opportunity to see the worst of brake rotor abuse. We get called when people have brake problems and we can solve most braking issue’s with our Frozen Rotors and carbon-metallic brake pads. Sometimes we need to go a step further by helping our customers diagnose brake systems problems. If you are having any braking concern’s please call to speak to one of our brake specialists. We can be reached at 888-323-8456.
Sincerely,
“The Frozen Rotor guys”
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Interesting. I didn't know about those ducts. Please share some pics.
I recently noticed that my brake power is decreased.
2 guys that at the dealer told it the problem could be overheating.
Maybe drills rotors will help?
Regarding my pads, I have the original Brembo pads.
Ty
Fly

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 

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Interesting. I didn't know about those ducts. Please share some pics.
I recently noticed that my brake power is decreased.
2 guys that at the dealer told it the problem could be overheating.
Maybe drills rotors will help?
Regarding my pads, I have the original Brembo pads.
Ty
Fly

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
The scats do have a "brake duct" directing air from the bottom front of the chin spoiler towards the rotors. If you jack up one side and remove the wheel you should be able to see it. I would highly recommend AGAINST drilled rotors! Especially for tracking the car. They make the rotor weaker in my opinion and more prone to fail. I recently saw one explode on a modified Miata. Not good!

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I do a road course day once or twice a year and replaced the OEM DOT3 brake fluid with DOT4 high temp. fluid. Makes a difference for not that much money.
 

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Interesting. I didn't know about those ducts. Please share some pics.
I recently noticed that my brake power is decreased.
2 guys that at the dealer told it the problem could be overheating.
Maybe drills rotors will help?
Regarding my pads, I have the original Brembo pads.
Ty
Fly

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
According to the website the rotors are sold with pads.

I still would call frozen rotors but i think you need better brake pads more oriented to track use.
 

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For brake pads look into Carbotech. I know a lot of folks who use their XP line for track days and like them. Myself I have their AX6 pads on mine and love them.

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Discussion Starter #14
According to the website the rotors are sold with pads.

I still would call frozen rotors but i think you need better brake pads more oriented to track use.
No,
Just the Rotors. (I received these home)
They also sell pads tho.
I'll look into new pads. Thanks for the suggestion!

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