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Discussion Starter #22
Update on my car...it appears there is a glitch of some sort in the canbus wiring behind the glovebox. I have removed the glovebox and when the failure occurs I can manipulate the wiring harness to get it to stop. Neither I nor the dealer can pinpoint where or what the glitch is so it looks like the in-dash wiring harness will have to be replaced. I can see where it terminates at the right kick panel but I am not sure where or if it terminates on the left side.

Anyone know if just the in-dash harness can be replaced and how much dash disassembly is required? I'm not keen on relying upon the numbskulls who have worked on the car so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well, I decided to spend a day and track down the cause of this issue once and for all. After much fiddling, twisting and tweaking I found the responsible connector and could generate the problem at will. Pulled it apart and found one of pins slightly bent (see pic). I straightened it and so far I cannot replicate the failure and it has not re-occurred on its own. I previously checked all the connectors looking for an obviously bent pin or a break in a wire but missed this barely tweaked pin.

So after spending over 100 days in 2 different dealer shops and having part after part thrown at it, I believe its now fixed. And it only took a year and a half. :rolleyes:

IMG_7544b.jpg
 

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That's just wrong...

A Guy
 

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Sorry to revive this old post but im having identical issues with my 2018 T/A 392. But mine does it when the car is not started and will no start at all and has basically all warning lights. What connector did you find bent?

Makes me not want a dodge.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The brown connector pictured above was behind the glovebox, which has to be removed along with the underdash panel to access it and it's not hard to do. My issue had specific symptoms, the primary one being that the electric power steering assist would shut off along with various error messages. It's surprising (or maybe not) that Dodge isn't able to isolate the responsible circuit when relating a specific set of symptoms, so you're pretty much left to trial and error. Dodge's attempted fixes were to needlessly throw parts at it and hope for the best, which of course didn't work.

If your problem is intermittent, there's a good chance it's an issue with a connector, given that these cars are too new to be dealing with deteriorating wiring. The first thing to do is to look for bent pins. I checked my connectors previously but missed it because the pin was not obviously bent. But now i know that a slightly tweaked pin is enough to cause the problem intermittently, so inspect them closely. If you cannot find it visually, then you will have to try tweaking the connectors. Given the close tolerances of the pins and their receptacles, a very light touch on the offending connector is needed to cause the issue to occur, so don't go shaking them about real hard.

If the issue is continuous and never resolves you can add failed componentry to the list of possible suspects and a dealer (i would hope) should be able to track it down and won't hand your car back to you until the issue is located and resolved.

Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
 

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Well after more interweb searching, it looks like the green connector block is indeed canbus, specifically the front Can-C bus star connector. I still haven't determined if the NHP connector is supposed to be connected or not. I found a pic of the connector disconnected but no corresponding description.

I'm amazed the green connector block is mounted to the back of the glovebox making it susceptible to shocks when shutting the glovebox door. The wires and connectors are flimsy and of small gauge. I'll be focusing my troubleshooting on that connector this weekend. It's currently hanging down in the footwell which may be forcing leverage on the suspect connector and ensuring a good connection, which would explain why it hasn't happened again since I removed the glovebox.

It's incredible an issue such as one loose wire or connector can cause multiple system failures while driving, not to mention the lack of engineered-in fail safes when failures occur.
Much of the CANBUS runs 3.3 to 5V - these don't need large gauge wires.

They're basically signal circuits to the various modules that command the high power, high current circuits for the devices (steering rack, HVAC blower, heated seats, rear defogger, lighting, etc).

Several circuits can command various items, instead of having "home run" wiring for each and every system - even then, the harnesses are large and heavy - you should see what they'd be if they ran 18 - 20 AWG throughout the body of the car. The harnesses would be like ropes that you see used on a ship
 
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