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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently purchased a 2010 R/T, manual trans and 56K miles, and drove her to work for the first time yesterday. My commute is mostly highway for the first 30 minutes then I exit turnpike and usually have some traffic at a merge beyond my toll exit.

I have noticed that when I exit the toll and am in stop and go traffic, at low rpm or idle, the trans does not want to shift out of 1st or 2nd even though the clutch is fully depressed. It literally holds the gear and the first time I drove the car I just forced it out, which is probably not good. Today I got a little smarter and when I felt it hang up I did not force it out...in fact if I accelerate it will shift normally. But then I was almost at work and stopped at a light in 2nd and wanted to shift out of 2nd into neutral so as to use 1st once the light changed...didn't want to come out...a little rpm and rocked it a bit and it reluctantly came out...while I do not know if heat has anything to do with it I have only noticed this occurring after the 30 minute drive time, so car is fully warmed up.

Only other thing I notice is that the clutch seems to bite at the very top of the pedal travel, which is a little higher than I like...wear?

So, what am I dealing with here? Shifter? Clutch? Trans?
 

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Throwout bearing is shot. Mine died at 12k miles. What happens is the clutch is not being depressed enough to fully release. that is why it will not come out and probably why it was sold. I did not like the factory unit at all, but it does work. If you need a good clutch pay the shipping and Ill happily send you my 12k dual disk unit. Its heavy, feels like lead. New these non-rebuildable units are like $800 plus install.

You can search out my thread on the subject. or PM me.
 

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My 6 speed did the same thing in all gears. There was an issue with the lubricant used on the splines of the input shaft that caused the clutch disk to not move away from the pressure plate and flywheel. This slight load caused the transmission to bind in gear. You will know this is the issue if you shut off the engine and the problem goes away.

I had the dealer R&R the transmission and lubricate the splines with the newer grease that does not get sticky with age. This solved the problem but was not the cheap solution. Clutch was fine at ~50K miles so nothing else was done.

Since then, there was no issue with shifting or sticking so that was the root cause of the problem.

Good Luck,
Bob
 

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This is a well documented issue. The last poster is correct. The wrong lubricant applied at the factory is the culprit for vehicles of your vintage with manual transmissions. Unfortunately, the transmission must be removed to access the splines to clean them up and apply the appropriate lubricant. Do a search on this problem and you will find many posts dealing with this problem. Good luck with setting it right.
 

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Before you try anything expensive, look at your brake fluid which is also the clutch fluid. It was probably never changed. I have a 2010 R/T and developed the same problem last year. Google "ranger protocol" and look at the video on how to change the clutch fluid in Corvettes. Note that Corvettes have a separate reservoir for the clutch fluid. I didn't believe it would work, but the first 3 ounces made a night and day improvement. I was shy about removing too much fluid at a time, so it took four times to go through a 12 ounce bottle of Mopar Dot 3 brake fluid. All that was left was me improving my shifting technique. Finally got around to changing the brake fluid out using the gravity method.

Camaro owners have problems with the clutch fluid too. They are adding a separate reservoir for the clutch to make it easier to use the Ranger Protocol. This also keeps the brake fluid from getting contaminated, but we should really change the brake fluid every two years. I already have my GTO clutch fluid reservoir, but it may take a while to fabricate a bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Before you try anything expensive, look at your brake fluid which is also the clutch fluid. It was probably never changed. I have a 2010 R/T and developed the same problem last year. Google "ranger protocol" and look at the video on how to change the clutch fluid in Corvettes. Note that Corvettes have a separate reservoir for the clutch fluid. I didn't believe it would work, but the first 3 ounces made a night and day improvement. I was shy about removing too much fluid at a time, so it took four times to go through a 12 ounce bottle of Mopar Dot 3 brake fluid. All that was left was me improving my shifting technique. Finally got around to changing the brake fluid out using the gravity method.

Camaro owners have problems with the clutch fluid too. They are adding a separate reservoir for the clutch to make it easier to use the Ranger Protocol. This also keeps the brake fluid from getting contaminated, but we should really change the brake fluid every two years. I already have my GTO clutch fluid reservoir, but it may take a while to fabricate a bracket.
Interesting...so the probable causes are 1) throw out bearing, 2) input shaft grease or 3) quality of my brake fluid (?)

Here is a variable to consider in regard to the brake fluid, which I DID NOT know was also my clutch fluid reservoir. Keep in mind that it did not do this when test driven, a pre-purchase inspection (performed by a Dodge dealer service department) or my ride home when I bought it which took well over an hour with 2 stops...the car was definitely at operating temperature.

I get it home and, in addition to replacing the brakes, tires and a coolant flush, I had the brake fluid flushed as well...could they (Mavis) have failed to follow some procedure? Maybe they did not know its also clutch fluid reservoir? It cant be the fluid as DOT 3 is DOT 3, right? I don't believe fluid level is low... maybe an air bleed procedure?

I just watched the "ranger protocol" ...will that work with a combo masters cylinder?
 

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My 6 speed did the same thing in all gears. There was an issue with the lubricant used on the splines of the input shaft that caused the clutch disk to not move away from the pressure plate and flywheel. This slight load caused the transmission to bind in gear. You will know this is the issue if you shut off the engine and the problem goes away.

I had the dealer R&R the transmission and lubricate the splines with the newer grease that does not get sticky with age. This solved the problem but was not the cheap solution. Clutch was fine at ~50K miles so nothing else was done.

Since then, there was no issue with shifting or sticking so that was the root cause of the problem.

Good Luck,
Bob
This is the main cause of the sticking - had this happen with my '09 and another friend that has a '13 R/T just had his serviced under warranty for the same issue (his has < 30K).

-grease on his was sticky and input splines had rust. The shop also noted the pilot bearing was sticky. Once this procedure is done, it will shift more smoothly.

at 56K there should be a lot more service life for the throwout / slave cylinder.

The early years '09/'10 were prone to having this issue with the incorrect grease. The friction disk "hangs" and if you bump the clutch, it will free it up until the next time it occurs.

The dealerships seem to be more up-to-date on the issue and are aware of the problem. Its a fault of assembly procedure rather than a mechanical issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I understand the input shaft grease issue, but given the timing and the fact that it did not do this before my brake fluid flush, it seems more probable that could be the culprit.

I spoke to Mavis...the "flush" is just bleeding the brakes with a vacuum unit , cap off master cylinder and topping it off as you go...how does the clutch work off that reservoir? Could contaminant or air have been drawn into the clutch system?

Does anyone know the factory procedure for changing the brake fluid? Any other bleeding process for clutch system?

Anyone have a factory service manual?
 

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Interesting...so the probable causes are 1) throw out bearing, 2) input shaft grease or 3) quality of my brake fluid (?)

Here is a variable to consider in regard to the brake fluid, which I DID NOT know was also my clutch fluid reservoir. Keep in mind that it did not do this when test driven, a pre-purchase inspection (performed by a Dodge dealer service department) or my ride home when I bought it which took well over an hour with 2 stops...the car was definitely at operating temperature.

I get it home and, in addition to replacing the brakes, tires and a coolant flush, I had the brake fluid flushed as well...could they (Mavis) have failed to follow some procedure? Maybe they did not know its also clutch fluid reservoir? It cant be the fluid as DOT 3 is DOT 3, right? I don't believe fluid level is low... maybe an air bleed procedure?

I just watched the "ranger protocol" ...will that work with a combo masters cylinder?
Keep in mind that even changing out the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes will not completely change all the fluid in the clutch hydraulics. Operating the clutch, either by repeated pumping in the garage per the Ranger Protocol (RP) or simply driving the car around for a while with enough clutch action, will bring out more of the clutch dust contamination, requiring another iteration of the RP. All I know is it works miracles for me. Could it be a combination of grease and fluid contamination? Maybe. Keeping the fluid clean will prevent clutch dust contamination from damaging the master/slave cylinders. It can't really hurt unless you spill brake fluid on your paint. I would take a peek at the fluid and see if it looks dark already.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Keep in mind that even changing out the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes will not completely change all the fluid in the clutch hydraulics. Operating the clutch, either by repeated pumping in the garage per the Ranger Protocol (RP) or simply driving the car around for a while with enough clutch action, will bring out more of the clutch dust contamination, requiring another iteration of the RP. All I know is it works miracles for me. Could it be a combination of grease and fluid contamination? Maybe. Keeping the fluid clean will prevent clutch dust contamination from damaging the master/slave cylinders. It can't really hurt unless you spill brake fluid on your paint. I would take a peek at the fluid and see if it looks dark already.
That's a good idea...I saw the procedure and will use a turkey baster to remove the fluid, clean out master cylinder as best I can with lint free shop towel, refill, pump clutch until fluid is clear...just a few bucks in fluid and a little time...
 

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That's a good idea...I saw the procedure and will use a turkey baster to remove the fluid, clean out master cylinder as best I can with lint free shop towel, refill, pump clutch until fluid is clear...just a few bucks in fluid and a little time...
Remember, I'm not telling you what to do, just what I did myself, so make sure you fully understand the risks associated with messing around with the brake reservoir and handling brake fluid. I made sure the cap was on the reservoir before pumping the clutch to prevent possible overflow. Also, I made sure the brakes were still working before taking it for a drive. Just remember that brake fluid is nasty stuff. I wore disposable nitrile gloves, eye protection and covered the fender. I used those rolls of blue shop towels they sell at Walmart, they seem extra lint free. I didn't wipe out the inside of my reservoir because I didn't empty it due to my fear of getting air in the ABS. The Corvette clutch reservoir in the video is easy to empty and clean, while the one on the Challenger is not. I did make sure to clean around the reservoir before opening it and cleaned the inside of the cap carefully. The GTO clutch reservoir that I am planning on installing will be easy to empty and wipe out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Remember, I'm not telling you what to do, just what I did myself, so make sure you fully understand the risks associated with messing around with the brake reservoir and handling brake fluid. I made sure the cap was on the reservoir before pumping the clutch to prevent possible overflow. Also, I made sure the brakes were still working before taking it for a drive. Just remember that brake fluid is nasty stuff. I wore disposable nitrile gloves, eye protection and covered the fender. I used those rolls of blue shop towels they sell at Walmart, they seem extra lint free. I didn't wipe out the inside of my reservoir because I didn't empty it due to my fear of getting air in the ABS. The Corvette clutch reservoir in the video is easy to empty and clean, while the one on the Challenger is not. I did make sure to clean around the reservoir before opening it and cleaned the inside of the cap carefully. The GTO clutch reservoir that I am planning on installing will be easy to empty and wipe out.
With that disclaimer you must be a lawyer! You are right on all counts...Brakes are new, bled and working great...I will remove and fill fluid, cap master, pump clutch and check...anything less than clear fluid and I will repeat it..I will avoid wiping it out as I don't think I can get in there...I like to cut a hole in a shop towel and place it over/around master to catch any leaks...I know brake fluid is caustic..if you say it worked well for you its worth trying...your clutch was also not fully disengaging?
 

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the procedure for getting the clutch master / slave bled is for 200 complete clutch pedal strokes. [not kidding]
 

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With that disclaimer you must be a lawyer! You are right on all counts...Brakes are new, bled and working great...I will remove and fill fluid, cap master, pump clutch and check...anything less than clear fluid and I will repeat it..I will avoid wiping it out as I don't think I can get in there...I like to cut a hole in a shop towel and place it over/around master to catch any leaks...I know brake fluid is caustic..if you say it worked well for you its worth trying...your clutch was also not fully disengaging?
Mine was sticking in 2nd and 3rd when I would come to a stop. I still had my stock shifter and a few times I thought I might break it off trying to get out of gear while sitting at a stop light! Some of the sticking may be due to bad stick shift driving habits like braking while in gear all the way down to near idle before pushing in the clutch, but the improvement was simply amazing. I believe the grind I was getting was also caused by incomplete disengagement. I find that if I "stab" the clutch down I can get smooth shifts even before fully warmed up. I have not done the clutch delay valve (CDV) delete yet, but I suspect that will help even more, perhaps not requiring the "stab" for 2nd gear when cold.

My thinking is that the clutch master/slave was engineered to have enough force to disengage the clutch under reasonable environmental extremes (hot and cold, etc) with a little extra cushion for wear and aging of the components. However, it seems as though clutch dust contamination was not expected and if the wrong grease takes more force or the CDV gets clogged, all bets are off. Obviously, changing the clutch fluid cannot have any effect on the grease used at assembly time, but if the degradation from the clutch dust and CDV clogging is reduced and extra wear from the clutch dust has not been significant then near normal operation can be achieved. Engineer, not lawyer!
 

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Son of a..

I had this problem last year when my RT was still under warranty but because it's only my road trip car I didn't think much of it or take it in.

Dropping the trans sounds expensive:(

Perhaps I should just trade it in....for a HC lol
 

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If anyone has the trans pulled why wouldn’t you replace the clutch? It’s far less costly to do it then, than to have to pull the trans again down the road.
 

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Depends on the car and the driver, I’ve gone over 100K on some cars. My feeling is though if a trans is being removed especially if you’re footing the bill why not bite the bullet and do it all at that time? I remember years ago I had a pickup that was under warranty and the trans had to be pulled because of an output shaft issue and was at about 45,000 miles, the service writer said if you want, go buy a clutch kit and offer the tech $50 to swap it out while he was already in there and I did it. The original looked pretty good but not as good as the new one and I had peace of mind afterward as I’d never have to revisit it while I owned it. Again, it just made sense to me.
 

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Depends on the car and the driver, I?ve gone over 100K on some cars. My feeling is though if a trans is being removed especially if you?re footing the bill why not bite the bullet and do it all at that time? I remember years ago I had a pickup that was under warranty and the trans had to be pulled because of an output shaft issue and was at about 45,000 miles, the service writer said if you want, go buy a clutch kit and offer the tech $50 to swap it out while he was already in there and I did it. The original looked pretty good but not as good as the new one and I had peace of mind afterward as I?d never have to revisit it while I owned it. Again, it just made sense to me.
Agreed. Just didn't know if I was missing anything. These 39k miles were pretty easy and mostly highway with a trip down RT 66 and a few power tours, etc. First time I experienced the sticking issue was when I was stuck in traffic in Pigeon Forge last year. Knew I should've addressed it then...
 

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VERY interesting thread! Mine sticks BAD - I sometimes have to yank HARD to get it out of gear after it's been parked. It's also sometimes VERY hard to get it to shift up to the next gear or just get out of gear after winding it up some then just pushing in the clutch to coast up to stopped traffic etc. The Dealer here in Fremont (that I bought it from) said there was nothing wrong. I was suspecting the clutch delay valve and dirty fluid - gonna try to get both of those things done this weekend. If those don't work it's time to talk to the extended warranty provider.............
 
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