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Discussion Starter #1
Mostly interested in the shifting of my 10 Auto. To me it feels like it doesnt hold the gears long enough, its like the car is trying to get to the highest gear possible as fast as possible to turn the MDS on. Also, is it just me or do you really have to get on the pedal to bring this car to life?

I tried searching on the shifting issue but came up empty handed.
 

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Mostly interested in the shifting of my 10 Auto. To me it feels like it doesnt hold the gears long enough, its like the car is trying to get to the highest gear possible as fast as possible to turn the MDS on. Also, is it just me or do you really have to get on the pedal to bring this car to life?

I tried searching on the shifting issue but came up empty handed.
I cant help you with shift points on the auto, but when I was shopping for my challenger I got a chance to drive both auto and manual.

The auto is exactly as you described, very lazy unless you give it some considerable pedal input.
The manual trans felt more connected, not as lazy, and IMO a lot more fun.
 

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When I had my 09 RT with auto, the only way I could routinely keep the tranny shifting at better rpms was to use the tranny in auto stick mode......manually changing the gears with the shift knob. The problem is, when in full auto mode, the adaptives learn how you drive the car and set shift points accordingly. Unless your foot is in the throttle all of the time (which is not practical or economical), it's going to settle into a "short shift" style of shifting because most of us most of the time just cruise around without pushing it. You can reset the adaptives by pulling a fuse (cant remember which one) but the info is in a sticky on this forum. Though, eventually it will most likely slip back into a "short shift" style mode again for the reason I mentioned above.
 

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....I simply use the autostick mode when I want to have more control over gear selection. A possible option to change the characteristics of how the car shifts in auto may be something like the Diablo Sport tuner. However, I am still unclear as what options work with which years so you will need to do your research.
 

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The answer is Diablosport Predator! Upload either 91 or 93 oct performance tunes, with or without CAI and then in the modify tune sections A: Turn the MDS funtion to OFF and B: go in to the transmission file and select Increased Shift firmness. That last part helps the automatic tranny's to really get more out of each gear before shifting into the next one. Makes a huge improvement IMO in auto or even in autostick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The tuner is a bit later down the road. Here is another question...when using auto stick do you guys let the car downshift on its own to avoid engine braking?
 

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if it does it on it's own, why not?
 

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You can reset the adaptives by pulling a fuse (cant remember which one) but the info is in a sticky on this forum. Though, eventually it will most likely slip back into a "short shift" style mode again for the reason I mentioned above.
It's the #2 fuse under the hood. I pull it often... Giggidy:thumbsup:
 

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no problem dude. we all have days like that.
 

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pulling the number 2, 20 amp fuse will reset your PCM, the you need to drive it like you stole it to set the driving habits, I do this about once a month, makes a big difference
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys, I will try the fuse tomorrow. I think I remember reading that before.
 

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I have tried the removing the battery cable trick and it's nothing compared to this procedure I found here:

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

This totally gets rid of any slop or mush in the throttle response but again, this is minor stuff compared to what you get from the very modest investment of a Diablosport Predator. Just the other day I drove my RT around for 20 minutes with the factory tune because that's how it was when I stored it this winter. Frankly, and I hate to say it, she drove like a lardy pig of a car, under powered, unresponsive and reminded me more of driving a big lazy couch around compared to how I remembered driving it DS tuned. Then, I updated my Predator and tuned the car with it, going with the 93oct CAI performance tune and it instantly became brutishly mean and powerful once again. The slightest push of the accelerator shoving the big mean hulk down the road like a fighter jet! Never going back to the factory tune with this car, not even on a bet. Only after tuning with the Predator will you appreciate the night and day difference in driving satisfaction I'm talking about. :smokin:

 

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If you want get-up-and-go response out of the electronic throttle, don't even waste your time with 0-50% travel. Go right to 50-100% travel. Also, learn how to motion the pedal to trigger the convertor lock-up clutch to disengage. Finally, become acquainted on employing autostick to the best effect when you get up and go (when to click down 1 gear vs click down 2 gears vs click down 3 gears). Alternatively, get a feel for how much pedal travel will induce a 1/2/3 gear kickdown, as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I tried the throttle calibration but didnt seem to feel any difference, I think I have been to light on the pedal all the way around. I was out for a bit today and it definitely responds a bit better with more pedal and shifting around 3K or better. Benn spending more time with the auto stick too. Its been a long time since I had a car like this, my last couple cars were a Wrangler and Liberty. Looks like I will be getting predator sooner than I thought!
 

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Leveraging that >3k rpm point is definitely crucial to get good output out of this engine. For all intents and purposes, that is when the hemi "gets out of bed".
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yep, definitely better with a heavier foot. I also noticed if I apply just a little more throttle, very little, as its changing gears it holds the gears longer, keeps the pace up, and does not lose 4 cylinders.
 

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When you are manually shifting with the auto stick mode the MDS is disabled and will not kick in. Getting a Predator will be big improvement as you can adjust shift firmness and reset the TCM and really bark or burn when you hit second gear. The only thing I don't like is even when in manual mode the transmission will automatically upshift to the next gear and the Predator can't turn this off on the 2010.
 
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