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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to put some ceramic coated shorty’s on.
Anyone have any data on which is best for the 5.7?
Car will be a daily driver & need to be dependable so also looking at best option in that aspect. Hate fooling with leaking headers!
 

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The need to continually tighten the bolts holding them on is mostly a thing of the past when it comes to headers. I don’t know what they changed to stop that blasted phenomenon, but evidently they figured out something and solved it.

I can’t speak to which kind of shorty is better, just the long tube kind are supposedly better than the shorties. But you don’t have to unbolt the engine and raise it up for installation to get the shorties in like you do the long tubes. So they at least have that Plus to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well good to know they don’t leak like they use to! I hear to use the 6.1 stock header bolts & gaskets on the 5.7’s
Supposedly they have a yellow heat activated washer.
 

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Well good to know they don’t leak like they use to! I hear to use the 6.1 stock header bolts & gaskets on the 5.7’s
Supposedly they have a yellow heat activated washer.
Yeah the factory bolts have mopar brown loctite on then. I bought some when i installed me 6.4 manifolds


Imo the 6.4/6.1/hellcat manifolds are very well engineered by dodge and i cant see you getting much more performance out of any other shorty header, especially for the price they can be had at.

Longtubes however, different story
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I was wanting to go with the 6.1/6.4 headers but I hear you have to grind some of the collector/clam shell off to keep them from rubbing the bell housing on transmission. Idk
Plus I want ceramic coating etc so I’m not sure how much it’d cost to coat the stock mopar headers.
 

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Yeah I was wanting to go with the 6.1/6.4 headers but I hear you have to grind some of the collector/clam shell off to keep them from rubbing the bell housing on transmission. Idk
Plus I want ceramic coating etc so I’m not sure how much it’d cost to coat the stock mopar headers.
You dont have to grind jack sh$t where did you read that? Easier to install if you slightly shift the motor around but the install is the same with whichever header you go with. Definitely a tight fit. FYI i paid about $600 just for the install


The factory headers have an integrated heat shield clam-shelled over it
 

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The factory headers have an integrated heat shield clam-shelled over it
Welp that rules them out for me, I have a severe allergy to shell fish.

😂😂😂😂

I’ll show myself the door now...😞
 

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I was looking at the same options you are looking at until I found out that the Hellcat headers bolt up to the 5.7 so I am going to go with them.
 

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If you're going for headers long tube headers are the way to go, cause shorty headers are just a waste of money for dodge, and the best brand for long tubes are the Kook long tube headers, you can't really go wrong with them, but as you already know to get the best out of them it'll require tuning the car after installing it.
 

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I definitely agree with what you said but my car is lowered so long tubes as an option went out the door for me...
 

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Shorty headers are not a waste of money. If you look at the restriction on the log manifolds, it is apparent any header is an upgrade. I had shorty's on my previous R/T and it was a huge difference compared to stock. Minimum 10 HP increase throughout the RPM range with between 10-15 HP increase above 4k RPM. I had the JBA ceramic coated headers and would recommend them over the BBK. Pay the extra cost for the ceramic coating. If you want to get really cheap, get the SRT manifolds and midpipes (they are heavier than the aftermarket shortys). You should be able to find both for less than $400. Also use Mopar OEM gaskets and Stage 8 locking bolts and you should be good to go.
 

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5045495AA and 5045496AA for gaskets
8916 on the stage 8 locking bolts.
 

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I bought my JBA shorty headers on CL for $140 and bought bolts at Home Depot for the headers bolts. Cost me like $16 for grade 8 bolts that work exactly the same. Also bought OEM style gaskets at the local parts store for about $35 and my stepfather and I did the work ourselves (which also saved a ton of money). Cost me about $200 total for the swap. The headers didn't provide a huge difference by themselves, but combined with a cold air intake and 91 octane tune, it made a pretty nice difference. Definitely more responsive and breathes better at higher RPMs. Next up for me is a bigger throttle body (85 or 87mm), 6.4 cam, custom TCM & PCM tune, 2800 RPM stall, and possibly 6.4 intake.
 

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Shorty headers are not a waste of money. If you look at the restriction on the log manifolds, it is apparent any header is an upgrade. I had shorty's on my previous R/T and it was a huge difference compared to stock. Minimum 10 HP increase throughout the RPM range with between 10-15 HP increase above 4k RPM. I had the JBA ceramic coated headers and would recommend them over the BBK. Pay the extra cost for the ceramic coating. If you want to get really cheap, get the SRT manifolds and midpipes (they are heavier than the aftermarket shortys). You should be able to find both for less than $400. Also use Mopar OEM gaskets and Stage 8 locking bolts and you should be good to go.
I went with JBA ceramic shorties on my recently departed '11 RT (drunk ran a stop sign and totalled it),I liked them for daily use,low and midrange power. It was a happy car,ran great,not as fast as longs,but no slouch either. One glance at the stock logs and it becomes apparent anything is an improvement.
 

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Looking to put some ceramic coated shorty’s on.
Anyone have any data on which is best for the 5.7?
Car will be a daily driver & need to be dependable so also looking at best option in that aspect. Hate fooling with leaking headers!
JBA ceramics,best value after a sale at Summit,install was tedious but uneventful,mileage about the same,performance way up after a CAI and tune.
 
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