I was just getting ready to unbolt everything, but wondered if it was even necessary, it looks like there is enough clearance to get it out w/o removing them.
Depends.....I like pulling the heads off as I can pull the shortblock without removing or holding up the hood and I don't risk marking up an engine bay. The radiator stays in place but the fans come out. Also 90% of the time the heads are being transferred over as well so it really doesn't matter. You can also drop the motor out the bottom with the trans attached but then you get into the HVAC system as well.
Yep....pulling the heads to install the headers makes life easy. Most people getting ported heads will do a header upgrade at that point cause there is no extra money to put headers on....if a shop tries to charge you extra money to install headers when the heads are off run.....they are either ripping you off or have no clue what they are doing.so i need to learn this. If I am changing heads, are you saying I can unbolt the heads and remove them WITH the headers still attached?
I ask cause it was a pain in the ass getting all the bolts in the headers because of the tight fit against the inner fender wall.
If i can remove the heads with the ARH headers still attached, thats awesome. then when I put the new heads on, I wont have to cuss as much.
Wait, so I can pull the motor w/ heads and headers attached? I've got the valve covers and intake man/fuel rails out.So are you just doing heads of are you going with a whole new motor?.
Heads, 31's got you covered.
Whole deal, she'll come right out thru the top with the factory headers attached with no isses, just remove the fans and the strut brace and cowling. Have someone there to hold the hood up and also remove the studs at the collector, they like to catch on the hood fabric.
psst.....edit that.....he has a 6 speed. Also As Cam said I like to do the shortblock and heads separate, a lot has to do that i work alone as well and don't have people to hold the hood or help remove it 90% of the time. Doesn't matter though whatever gets the job done.Stock headers yes, long tubes no.
Here, I'll lay a couple hints out since I'll be back in the shop for a while longer and not online.
Once you've unbolted the trans housing (leave two bolts in to hold it) I prefer to install a bar across the bottom and attach it to the frame rails to support the transmission. I happen to use a 1/2" diameter rod with 1/4" holes drilled in it that I use j bolts into the slotted openings in the frame rails, you'll see them. Don't forget to unbolt the troque converter and when you re-install make certian the TC is clocked with one mount at 6 o'clock or you'll play hell getting it lined up to the flex plate.
I leave the valve covers on, but since they're off, no biggie. Removing the fans and the strut brace and cowling will leave enough room to move the engine forward as you lift and clear the hood. REMOVE the collector studs, they will if you're not carefull catch the fabric under the hood.
The PS pump and the AC compressor lay off to the side like E said. Remove the alternator, starter and the tranny fill tube. I also prefer to remove the wiring harness, but it works both ways, so your preference.
Remove the motor mount studs from the bottom, not just the nuts.
Other then going into specifics, that's it. Hemi31 and I disagree on something. I prefer to assemble everything on the engine stand and drop it in place. He prefers doing the short block and then the heads in the car. I just happen to hate laying over the fenders for that lenght of time, but you have no choice if you're running long tube headers.
psst.....edit that.....he has a 6 speed. Also As Cam said I like to do the shortblock and heads separate, a lot has to do that i work alone as well and don't have people to hold the hood or help remove it 90% of the time. Doesn't matter though whatever gets the job done.