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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2011 R/T. When I left work the other day, my battery was dead. I got a jump from one of the guys and I made my way back home. After a few days with my car parked, I tried to start it... battery was dead again. I replaced the battery and thought the problem was solved. While moving on to my next project in the garage, I heard a strange noise and realized my window was cycling up and down about every 10 seconds. Now I understand what caused my battery to die. I did what everyone else does... I went online. Turns out there are a lot of people experiencing this same thing. I tried to find videos or an article showing how to replace the actual components but could only find videos on how to remove the door panel so I had to figure it out on my own. Here's what I learned:

There are 3 components which could be the culprit - (1) the smart glass sensor, (2) the door latch, (3) the door handle.

I had the sensors replaced in 2013 when there was a recall on them so I assumed that wasn't the issue. The door handle wasn't in stock at my local dealership and I was able to hear the contacts making up when I placed my hand on the handle so I didn't think that was the problem. That leaves the latch. I watched YouTube videos on how to remove the door panel (7 plastic clips, 5 screws). Here are the other steps:

1. Unplug the 3 sets of wires holding the panel to the door
2. Snap the metal rod with the yellow jacket out of the yellow clip holding it to the door panel
3. Peel back the black plastic sheeting on the door being sure to work the rod mentioned above and the door lock out
4. Snap the black cable out of the holder and slide the round white piece out (this is a little tight for all you guys with big hands)
5. Disconnect the wires at the top of the latch
6. Snap the metal rod being held in by the orange piece out
7. Remove the 3 bolts holding the latch in place (by using a star wrench)
8. With the latch in hand, disconnect the wires from the bottom (I found it was easier to do this after pulling the latch off of the door because of the tight space)
9. With the old latch and new latch side by side on the floor, switch out the door lock and the long rod with the yellow jacket from the old one to the new one
10. Reassemble/reinstall in the reverse order

So far, the window cycling has stopped (fingers crossed). I ended up spending $140 on the door latch which would've cost me about $400 at the dealership. It only took about an hour to replace it.
 

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I just bought my R/T a month ago, and a week after I bought it i got a surprise dead battery (original mopar) put in an AGM figuring it was 5 years old, after new battery was in went to work and was talking to co workers and saw it doing this, found this site and YouTube videos, I ordered a latch installed it and it was fixed! For 3 whole days. Then my window went bananas while I was driving. Up down, up down rapidly, finally it just stopped doing it's "trick" and stayed down. I disconnected the battery so I wouldn't come out to it being drained and it's back to being completely fine.. until I'm not in the car, just like it was before I replaced the latch. So now I get to leave the window cracked so it doesn't cycle it's heart away. Very awesome car but I wanted a retro car. Not retro problems. I have tried every calibration I could find, YouTube and here. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
 

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I just bought my R/T a month ago, and a week after I bought it i got a surprise dead battery (original mopar) put in an AGM figuring it was 5 years old, after new battery was in went to work and was talking to co workers and saw it doing this, found this site and YouTube videos, I ordered a latch installed it and it was fixed! For 3 whole days. Then my window went bananas while I was driving. Up down, up down rapidly, finally it just stopped doing it's "trick" and stayed down. I disconnected the battery so I wouldn't come out to it being drained and it's back to being completely fine.. until I'm not in the car, just like it was before I replaced the latch. So now I get to leave the window cracked so it doesn't cycle it's heart away. Very awesome car but I wanted a retro car. Not retro problems. I have tried every calibration I could find, YouTube and here. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
It sounds ridiculous, but I fixed this on my 2011 Challenger by removing the smart glass sensor. No word of a lie. Without the sensor installed, my windows still drop 1/4 inch when I lift the door handle. No more dead battery.
 
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