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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I might have the first negative feedback for this exhaust. I have an 09 SRT8 6 speed. Does anyone else have this exhaust on a SRT8 stick? I have a decent amount of drone between 2000-2400 rpm. Usually in 4th and 5th gear. I have adjusted the J pipes in each direction by over an inch in 1/4" increments with no differnece in sound at all. Anyone have any luck with adjusting these on a stick?

Also, does anyone elses passenger side tail pipe stick out further than the drivers? I have the kit where you reuse the stock tips. There is no 'adjustment' for the depth of the tailpipes due to the ball and socket design.

I dont mean to crap all over this exhaust, it is by far one of the best fitting systems I've seen, and the tips are actually centered in the openings in the valance, unlike the others I've seen.

I also have to say that the customer service by the Solo guys is amazing and that is where I found out how to adjust the J pipes in the first place.

Anyone else notice any of these issues? Thanks in advance.
 

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I didn't think you were suppose to have J pipes on a stick? Have you tried talking to Jeff Boychuk 905-703-1557 He was part of the group Solo sent to CF2 and he seems to know alot about what's going on. Mines an auto but my tips match up like they did with the original exhaust. When I got mine they said they would send me an exhaust they took off another car for just shipping if you want to go back stock.
 

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Aftermarket exhausts will amplify the sound more than OEM, and create that drone. It's pretty normal.. The only exhaust I've read about that has ZERO drone is Corsa. I've read a few people with Solo that have drone. I have drone on my exhaust, but I don't mind it.
 

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StevieRT,

I just had the Solo Hi Flow Cats and Mach X-3 (quad tips) exhaust installed on my 2009 Challenger SRT8 six-speed this morning. Prior to installation, I had a pre-dyno run to establish my stock baseline power and will be returning in the morning for a post-dyno run to see how much power was added. As soon as everything is completed, I will be posting a write up with results, pictures, videos as well as any pros and cons. Stay tuned! For now your best bet would be to talk with Solo (Steve/Jeff) if you have already adjusted your J-pipes incremently in both directions without any noticeable difference. They can take you step by step through the process to try and eliminate much of the drone.

Tipper
 

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How many miles have you put on the exhaust. I found with my R/T auto that I had some drone on the e-way til it broke in. About 500 miles I'm guessing at least.
 

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I bought the Solo for my 2010 SRT8 6SPD during the group buy a few months back. I have since put 4000 miles on it with absolutely no drone. I have the Solo tips with J pipes. I have not moved them since the installation. The only issue I have had is I have to continue to tighten the circle clamps because it vibrates and rattles. A friend told me I should have it welded. Sorry to hear that you have drone though. I'm wondering if my j pipes came from the factory in a different location then yours. I'm sure you'll be able to tune it in.
 

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Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has had issues from this exhaust. I bet the dyno doesn't show near the numbers that Solo claims it will produce. I had a base dyno done before my install and then dyno'd it on the same dyno the following week after the exhaust install and my car only made a few hp difference but there was about 15-20 ft lbs of torque added. After talking with Jeff at Solo they said that my results were off what they should have been and maybe the temps and other things were to blame. Anyway, I think that expecting anything more than I got was just really wishful thinking. I will probably go back to stock at some point, but just had to try it. I also had to use the J pipes with my 6 speed to keep the drone down between 1800 - 2200 rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I emailed back and forth a few times with I think Steve at Solo and he actually said the automatics were much harder to remove the drone from, but that I should try lengthening the J pipes first. As stated earlier, I lengthened them by over an inch, then shortened them by an inch, all in 1/4" increments, to no help. Im not sure this is fact, but he made it seem most of the development of this exhaust was aimed at the autos, and thats what got me thinking about asking other people of their experiences with the sticks.
I also got mine through the group buy a few months ago, but its only been on my car a month or two and less than 500 miles. Hopefully it quiets down some, it isn't terrible, but definitely noticeable.
I'm not upset about HP numbers at all though, It's not just SOLO, all the manufacturers claim these insane numbers; in reality, all these exhausts are for sound only. The SRT engineers even said that the factory stick SRT8 exhausts are straight through and good for 500+ h.p. Any restriction the factory exhaust has is in the cats. But thats for another thread anyways.
 

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I realize you're talking stick vs auto, but just to let you know, I adjusted my J's on my R/T auto out 2 1/4 inches til I found the spot I wanted.

Just a reference point.. I did it in 1/2 inch increments until I was close, then went 1/4".. about 4 or 5 tries to suit my personal desires.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, thats alot of adjustment, I dont think there is enough room for much more than about 1 1/2" out on the SRT exhaust before it starts hitting the rear splash shield. It seems to have the least amount of drone about 1 1/2" in, but its till there. I guess thats where it will have to stay.
 

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2012 Challenger SRT in BSP
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Aftermarket exhausts will amplify the sound more than OEM, and create that drone. It's pretty normal.. The only exhaust I've read about that has ZERO drone is Corsa. I've read a few people with Solo that have drone. I have drone on my exhaust, but I don't mind it.
NO drone on the Corsa? Maybe that's what I'm looking for. I've had the Blastin' Bob's resonator delete WITH the glass packs for while. They sound great outside the car but the drone is pretty bad at 1800-2000 RPM. After a couple of trips and not being able to talk normally to my passenger and enjoy the music, I've decided to put the original resonators back on. Just pulled them out of the attic last night. I have a pair of 2.5" butt joint clamps from NAPA to reconnect them.

Anyway, if Corsa is louder and/or deeper than stock with no drone, maybe that's the way for me to go.

Is there a particular model Corsa I'm looking for? Is that what the Mopar aftermarket upgrade is for the R/T? I have an '09 R/T six speed.

Thanks!
 

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Wow, thats alot of adjustment, I dont think there is enough room for much more than about 1 1/2" out on the SRT exhaust before it starts hitting the rear splash shield. It seems to have the least amount of drone about 1 1/2" in, but its till there. I guess thats where it will have to stay.
Maybe mine started way too far "in".. It was really quiet when I first put it on.. just like stock.

Sorry to hear you're having issues with it.

Mike
 

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Old thread but still quite relevant. Many thanks to those that shared their experience from back in 2011. :thumbsup:

I have a 2010 SRT8 auto with the Solo X3 catback retaining the factory tips. I bought and installed this setup back in March 2011 during a group buy. I liked the sound and have always just dealt with the drone. Friends of mine that have followed me in traffic have remarked about how loud my car is and in paricular that I must have drone. I guess you know your car drones if your buddies hear it in their car. The older I get, the less I tolerate it though. The exhaust has been removed/reinstalled 3 times over the years as I modded other things but I've never actually adjusted the J-Pipes. Really glad I didn't weld it up. After over 4 years of use there is definitely drone that peaks at 2100-2200 RPM. I ran 3.73 gears for 3 years and the change in RPMs reduced the drone quite abit for the given speeds I tended to drive at. I've since gone back to the factory 3.06 gears to reclaim some mileage and the drone came back with it.

I'll try adjusting the J-Pipes tomorrow. Seems adjusting them out is the way to go. Based on what I've read here, I'll skip the 1/4" incremental procedure and simply move em out as far as I can in their cramped space. I have a Sound Meter DB app on my phone and will do before and after tests. I've contemplated installing Flowmaster Resonators if adjusting the J-Pipes does not reduce the drone an appropriate amount.
 

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Hi, My understanding of them is any set position tends to cover approx 300-400rpm window so big shifts to get you in the right target area can save some mucking around.
Although every car is a little different there is a chart that gives some ball park figures to also get you close quicker
i.e 1600rpm 26inchs, 1800rpm 28inchs, 2000rpm 30 inchs.
I have tried to make a scale of my personal experience.
0-10 scale.
Cruising / light load.
0 = you can chat away normaly no drone detectable.
10 = intolerable head going to explode.
No J-Pipes (1500rpm = 0) (1600 rpm = 5) (1700rpm = 5) (1800 = 9) (1900rpm = 5) (2000rpm = 0)
So I targeted 1800 rpm with 28 inch initial adjustment.
Result. (1500rpm = 0) (1600rpm = 4) (1700rpm = 0)
(1800rpm = 0) (1900rpm = 0) (2000rpm = 0)
Yahoo I thought, I,m now a believer! Lets see if I can improve 1600rpm without re-introducing issues at 1800-1900rpm so shortened length to 27 1/4 inch.
Result. (1500rpm = 0) (1600rpm = 2) (1700rpm = 0)
(1800rpm = 0) (1900 rpm = 0) (2000rpm =0)
Next test will be 26.5 inch, It was a huge improvement at 28 inchs over no J-Pipes and I would be happy if I cannot get it any better than where it is at 27 1/4 inch but I do want to see at what point I re-introduce drone at the 1800rpm range as that is where I cruise most (tall back tires 295/45/20 and auto = approx 60mph - 70 mph)
Guts of story is if you are targeting 2000 rpm + you may need to be out at 30 inchs or longer. Hope this helps.
 

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Should of added my system is not Solo.
It is Muffler delete/ Resonator delete with Glasspack perforated like Blastin Bob type set up in place of resonators. Custom built J-Pipes similar to Solo style and placement.
 

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StevieRT,

I just had the Solo Hi Flow Cats and Mach X-3 (quad tips) exhaust installed on my 2009 Challenger SRT8 six-speed this morning. Prior to installation, I had a pre-dyno run to establish my stock baseline power and will be returning in the morning for a post-dyno run to see how much power was added. As soon as everything is completed, I will be posting a write up with results, pictures, videos as well as any pros and cons. Stay tuned! For now your best bet would be to talk with Solo (Steve/Jeff) if you have already adjusted your J-pipes incremently in both directions without any noticeable difference. They can take you step by step through the process to try and eliminate much of the drone.

Tipper
guess this guy still hasnt completed the install yet..... :sleep:
 

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2010 Challenger SRT8
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Solo X3 catback adjustments

I slid the J-Pipes out today till there was about 3/4" clearance between the 180 degree curve of the J-Pipe and the body of the car. If you have this system and have been under there, you should know what I'm talking about. The adjustment made a slight reduction in drone but not much. I found a phone app called "RTA Analyzer" that gives both DB and Frequency of what the meager cell microphone can hear. On this app, the drone seemed to push the 125hz bar up the most. My research on other auto sites regarding drone found that the drone frequency is actually 133-138 hz. The hz increments of the free version of the app I got was not concise enough to fully identify the drone frequency but was worth a shot.

Bottom line is that with the J-Pipes set to length as they were shipped I had drone. The drone is still there after making adjustments but my ears tell me it is slightly less. The cell phone app lacked the sensitivity to tell the difference.
 

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I slid the J-Pipes out today till there was about 3/4" clearance between the 180 degree curve of the J-Pipe and the body of the car. If you have this system and have been under there, you should know what I'm talking about. The adjustment made a slight reduction in drone but not much. I found a phone app called "RTA Analyzer" that gives both DB and Frequency of what the meager cell microphone can hear. On this app, the drone seemed to push the 125hz bar up the most. My research on other auto sites regarding drone found that the drone frequency is actually 133-138 hz. The hz increments of the free version of the app I got was not concise enough to fully identify the drone frequency but was worth a shot.

Bottom line is that with the J-Pipes set to length as they were shipped I had drone. The drone is still there after making adjustments but my ears tell me it is slightly less. The cell phone app lacked the sensitivity to tell the difference.
Hi, I may be wrong about this as I have not seen solo J-pipes in person.
Your description sounds like you are moving the U-bend in and out?
Are they not designed for the straight tubed section in the top end of the U-bend to slide in and out for adjustment?
The lower U-bend connection is just for getting the vertical position correct in the old resonator area. It is the straight end section that gives you the 4 inchs of adjustment.
Google some images to see how they adjust.
Hopefully that helps. Phil.
 

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This is from Solo install guide.
Note: The J-pipes come to you with band clamps on them. The lower band clamps (A) need to be loosened and the J-pipe swiveled into the cavity where the stock muffler was. The J’s are shipped resting on the tailpipe. This position is for shipping only. Once you install the system Clamp A must be loosened and the J-pipe turned away from the tailpipe into the muffler cavity. There is no correct position other than the J can’t be touching anything and it must have clearance from the floor.
Do not adjust any “length” from the Clamp A position.
The upper Clamp B is where you adjust the length if necessary. Most systems are good with the factory preset length but if you need to adjust for trouble RPM ranges you do it with the end cap slider at the Clamp B position.
 

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2010 Challenger SRT8
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This is from Solo install guide.
Note: The J-pipes come to you with band clamps on them. The lower band clamps (A) need to be loosened and the J-pipe swiveled into the cavity where the stock muffler was. The J’s are shipped resting on the tailpipe. This position is for shipping only. Once you install the system Clamp A must be loosened and the J-pipe turned away from the tailpipe into the muffler cavity. There is no correct position other than the J can’t be touching anything and it must have clearance from the floor.
Do not adjust any “length” from the Clamp A position.
The upper Clamp B is where you adjust the length if necessary
. Most systems are good with the factory preset length but if you need to adjust for trouble RPM ranges you do it with the end cap slider at the Clamp B position.
Thanks for that. I got back under there, loosened Clamp A and put em back to their original length (fully seated). The stubby tube is adjusted out till theres about 3/4" away from the plastic fenderwell. Took it out for a drive and it all sounds the same. Sounds awesome, as always, at full throttle. The drone is unchanged.
 
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