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After driving with the check engine light on for quite awhile I went to a local shop and paid to have them tightened up once again. The mechanic there had the cure for the cats coming loose. He claimed a lock washer and a second nut would not allow the cats to back off. First trip on the highway a few days later (not even driving hard) the cel light is back on with the same exhaust codes. What is different between the mounting ends of the Solo cats and the stock cats which never come loose? This is ridiculous!!!!
 

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These is for the 6.4 SRT...Don't feel alone I went back stock also after numbers of attempts to correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #263
B5Blue...Give Jeff a call at 905-703-1557 and explain to him your situation. He is very good with technical issues and will help to resolve yours. If you're near one of our shops, we would be happy to look at it and realign it at no charge. Send me a PM with the CEL code you're getting, as this should not be happening and knowing the codes will help better pinpoint what the issue could be. Thanks so much!

Goebel1...The Mach X exhaust for the SRT will only drone if there is an install issue or the J pipes are not set correctly. I have them on my SRT8, with a blower, HF cats, and LT headers, and have zero drone. There is no way they would drone on an almost stock car unless there was an install or J pipe setting issue. We are willing to help talk you through the adjustment process, which is really simple. Give us a call.

Steve
 

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B5Blue...Give Jeff a call at 905-703-1557 and explain to him your situation. He is very good with technical issues and will help to resolve yours. If you're near one of our shops, we would be happy to look at it and realign it at no charge. Send me a PM with the CEL code you're getting, as this should not be happening and knowing the codes will help better pinpoint what the issue could be. Thanks so much!

Goebel1...The Mach X exhaust for the SRT will only drone if there is an install issue or the J pipes are not set correctly. I have them on my SRT8, with a blower, HF cats, and LT headers, and have zero drone. There is no way they would drone on an almost stock car unless there was an install or J pipe setting issue. We are willing to help talk you through the adjustment process, which is really simple. Give us a call.

Steve
Its not fair comparing your car as you have altered the motor changing the exhaust frequency and turning off the MDS.
I have been on the phone with you guys number of times. I must say the exhaust system is very well built and fit absolutely perfect and installs easily. The installation was done right and triple check per Solo request. The frecking j-pipe were adjusted in and out 1/8" increments. It still had random spot of drone and hi way speed 65-75mph speed just suck...
Its my conclusion this exhaust will drone on a stock 392 6.4 SRT.
 

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Discussion Starter #265
Goebel1,
Trust me, the only thing I want to do is help you. That's what I am here for. I had it on my stock 392 before the SC was put on, and it didn't drone either on that, even with the MDS on. With that being said, I am not saying that you are lying, as you wouldn't be writing to us if it weren't the case. What altitude are you at? Are you much higher than sea level? I am trying to think of any variable that could be the cause, because we tested this on many cars for over 1000 miles each in different states and they all tested no drone at all RPM levels and speeds. We want to help you for sure. Are you near any of our shops so we can take a look?

Steve
 

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Solo has been very helpful but with no results. I have two buddies with the Solo that also drone so this isn't a freak thing (wish I knew). I just want to let people know my experience so they can decide before spending the money.
 

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B5Blue...Give Jeff a call at 905-703-1557 and explain to him your situation. He is very good with technical issues and will help to resolve yours. If you're near one of our shops, we would be happy to look at it and realign it at no charge. Send me a PM with the CEL code you're getting, as this should not be happening and knowing the codes will help better pinpoint what the issue could be. Thanks so much!

Goebel1...The Mach X exhaust for the SRT will only drone if there is an install issue or the J pipes are not set correctly. I have them on my SRT8, with a blower, HF cats, and LT headers, and have zero drone. There is no way they would drone on an almost stock car unless there was an install or J pipe setting issue. We are willing to help talk you through the adjustment process, which is really simple. Give us a call.

Steve
The same codes as always, P2096 and P2098 exhaust leaks. I have been to Zorro muffler where Jeff is several times and it costs me at least $40 in fuel and three hours of my time every time I go. The staff is friendly and helpful but even they admit everyone has the same problem with the solo cats. They come loose everytime the car is run hard or hot on the highway. they told me of a track day when everyones cel light came on and its because of the taper on the beginning of the pipe. Pardon me for not doing this in a PM as requested but all customers should know what they are getting into. I am not having an odd singular infrequent problem with your product. I spent a lot of money on this product, have given you several opportunities to correct the situation and the problem persists. Tightening up the cats over and over again does not correct an engineering flaw.

P2096 Dodge Description
The conditions that caused this diagnostic to fail is when the upstream O2 Sensor biased from an exhaust leak, O2 sensor contamination, or some other extreme operating condition.



P2098 Dodge Description
The conditions that caused this diagnostic to fail is when the upstream O2 Sensor biased from an exhaust leak, O2 sensor contamination, or some other extreme operating condition.


Read more: P2098 Dodge Downstream Fuel Trim System 2 Lean OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

Read more: P2096 Dodge Downstream Fuel Trim System 1 Lean OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
 

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Discussion Starter #268
B5...let me look into it...I wasn't aware that it was an issue on more than one car. Usually, the shop will develop a fix if it is a common issue with one of our products. Let me look into seeing if they have developed one and I will post back here.
 

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B5...let me look into it...I wasn't aware that it was an issue on more than one car. Usually, the shop will develop a fix if it is a common issue with one of our products. Let me look into seeing if they have developed one and I will post back here.
I have been patient for a month, and still no answer. I was hoping to have this resolved before putting my car away for the winter. I would think the solution would be pretty straight forward. Look at the ends of stock cats which don't come loose, and then look at the ends of the Solo cats that continually come loose and cause a CEL. Whatever the difference is between the two is the problem! Shim up the defective solo cats, cut off and replace the ends, or redesign and replace the cats, but please, a solution on this faulty product would be appreciated!
 

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Solo issue

I have been patient for a month, and still no answer. I was hoping to have this resolved before putting my car away for the winter. I would think the solution would be pretty straight forward. Look at the ends of stock cats which don't come loose, and then look at the ends of the Solo cats that continually come loose and cause a CEL. Whatever the difference is between the two is the problem! Shim up the defective solo cats, cut off and replace the ends, or redesign and replace the cats, but please, a solution on this faulty product would be appreciated!
This is exactly what happens when they have an issue... they know they can not resolve. Thats why I try to warn people hope you do the same. Solo alway says call we will resolve this. The only way you get an reaction out of them is when you tell the truth to other member they don't like that much then they start the same oh call us crap over.
 

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This is exactly what happens when they have an issue... they know they can not resolve. Thats why I try to warn people hope you do the same. Solo alway says call we will resolve this. The only way you get an reaction out of them is when you tell the truth to other member they don't like that much then they start the same oh call us crap over.
goebel1 I cannot say anything bad about the people at Solo Because Jeff and his staff at Zorro Muffler are all nice people to deal with but obviously their is something wrong with their product that they don't have a handle on.
I am getting pm's now asking me if the problem has been corrected and if I recommend getting the Solo cats. How can I possibly recommend a product that does not work on my car and causes me nothing but aggravation and grief? I don't want to cost them business but this forum is about members helping each other. I have to tell them that I would save myself the time money and aggravation at this point. I will probably put the stock cats back on in the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #272
Hi Guys. This is Jeff from Solo. First off we'd like to say that we're very sorry for any problems that people are having due to the nuts backing off and causing a leak at the flange connection of the Solo converter. I've been in exhaust over 30 years and the Chrysler ball at the back end of the Manifold is like nothing I've ever seen. It's incredibly small ( not the outlet size but the ball surface area ) with virtually no surface contact area for our flair ( on our cat ) to "seat" to. I don't say this to excuse any problems that people may have with our cats loosening off I just point it out so that I can explain what is happening... A brief explanation...With the heat and cool cycles that the stock manifold, our flange and flair go through when the car heats up and then cools down, expansion and contraction takes place. The manifold, our flange, and flair on the pipe are all different thicknesses and the materials are also dissimilar. This causes expansion and contraction at different rates which is the source of the problem with the nuts loosening. If the contact point where the stock ball on the manifold meets our flair were bigger they would "seat" together with more surface area and move together better during the heat and cool cycle and not come loose. Chrysler uses a special formed flange ( no flair ) to seat their converter but as yet we haven't found a supplier to make a similar flange.

I have discussed this problem extensively with my co-workers and we believe we have come to a solution that will fix this issue for anyone that is having it. I have one more person to talk to about this tomorrow morning and then we'll post the findings.

B5Blue1 can you please give me a call tomorrow morning and we can talk about your issues and what we can offer you as a fix etc. My # is 905-703-1557.

We appreciate all the support that the Challenger community has given us through the years and we take customer satisfaction to heart. We want all of our customers to be satisfied with our products and if there is an issue we definitely will work diligently at making it right for you. Thank you for your support and patience and we'll post again tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Hi Guys. Our flange on the SRT-8 cats is a floating flange and we did it this way for ease of installation and adjust-ability. In light of the problems that some people are experiencing due to the heat / cool cycles explained above, we have decided to weld this flange to the pipe. We are getting a SRT-8 into our store tomorrow to jig up for this and any future converters sent out by Solo will have the flange tack welded to the pipe. With the flange permanently fixed to the pipe it in essence makes the flair and flange one unit. This will push any flair to flange expansion and contraction differential further down ( past the flange ) where it will be unable to loosen off.

For existing SRT-8 customers having this problem...If you are able to come to our shop ( Buffalo to Toronto ) we will do this weld for free on your existing converters. If you are from out of town and can't get to us and want to do this...take it to a shop, have them tighten the nuts and check that it is leak free. Then weld a small 1/2" to 3/4" long weld in roughly the 12:00 o'clock and 6:00 o'clock position ( flange to pipe ). This should be under $75.00 as it is fairly easy and fast for a shop to do. A regular mig weld will work, it doesn't have to be a stainless steel mig-weld.

E-mail us the receipt at [email protected] and we will reimburse the original purchaser what you paid for the weld up to $75.00 by Paypal or check ( your choice. ) Not all people have this problem and we urge you not to do this unless you're experiencing the problem. Before we reimburse you we need to know the name that the original order was placed under and that you are the original purchaser. We look forward to clearing these matters up as quickly as possible. We are having our first test car ( B5blue1 )coming into our store this Wednesday morning to get the weld done on his existing converters and will keep you informed of the results. We are confident that it will work well and solve the problem.

From Steve / Jeff and all of us at Solo we apologize for any inconvenience this has caused and look forward to resolving these issues. Thanks.
 

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I have received the recommended first aid for my cats. As Jeff described they have been welded top and bottom to the flange. The cats should not be able to back off now.
Unfortunately it is late in the season and there is a forcast for snow this Friday in Toronto. If they salt the roads this week I will be putting the car away for the winter. Its unfortunate but we may have to wait till next summer to see if this is a permanent solution to the problem. I will update when I can. Maybe one of the members who lives down south an drives year round can take advantage of Jeff's offer and update us sooner.
 

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It was probably the last nice day in southern Ontario today so I took the Challenger for a boot. I thought I would have to wait until next summer to report on the welding fix but we have an answer. It does not work! In less than 200 kilometers since the welding my CEL light is on again. I checked the codes and same as always, P2096 & P2098 exhaust leaks. Steve, Jeff , where do we go from here guys?????
 

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Just give up... I been down this road you wont be happy till you go back stock. If anything hopefully you can get a refund if your really lucky. I had to give mine away.
 

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I gave up a long time ago. At least I salvaged the resonators and I am running one of them on my Land Cruiser....:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #278
Hi guys. There's a few places we need to go from here. B5Blue1 please give me a call when you can at 905-703-1557 ( Jeff ) and we can discuss a few options. To you and anyone that has had this problem we are very sorry. We will continue to work on fixing this. It's strange that it only happens on a few vehicles for the amount sold but B5Blue1 if you are able and willing to continue the process with us I can assure you that we will do everything we can to get this fixed once and for all. Yours is a great test car and once we get it solved for you we'll easily have it solved for the rest. Again from myself, Steve and the Solo team we are sorry for the inconvenience and trouble that this has caused.
 

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I've been checking out this thread recently but admit to not reading every response. If I might make some observations, while welding the flange might help to stiffen up the assembly it doesn't seem that it could help with the thermal load on the parts. It seems that the fasteners are still able to become loose after some heat/cool cycles. Not knowing exactly what the area looks like (did check out photos on page 1 but I can't tell how tight it might be in there) it would seem that if the fasteners were mechanically locked then the flange should not leak and no 3rd party involvement would be required to weld after installation.

If possible there might be a few ways to accomplish this.
1- make a custom long nut and use a like threaded set screw in the end to lock the nut to the stud.
2- make a custom nut and use a similar mechanical lock as the one by Stage 8. Maybe they already have something.
3- make a custom nut with a long shoulder that would support a high temperature die spring that would maintain high pressure on the flange during all temperature cycles but allows for expansion and contraction. Lee Spring has all kinds and sizes of springs.

Any decent machine shop could turn down, bore out, and thread a piece of 304SS hex stock (McMaster Carr has this). Coupling nuts, also available from McMaster might work.

I get to design and fix all kinds of mechanical devices at my job so I see this stuff as an opportunity for improvement. Sometimes its fun. Sometimes not so much when things don't work out but it is always a learning experience.

Hope you guys can get this figured out.
 

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Hi Guys. This is Jeff from Solo. First off we'd like to say that we're very sorry for any problems that people are having due to the nuts backing off and causing a leak at the flange connection of the Solo converter. I've been in exhaust over 30 years and the Chrysler ball at the back end of the Manifold is like nothing I've ever seen. It's incredibly small ( not the outlet size but the ball surface area ) with virtually no surface contact area for our flair ( on our cat ) to "seat" to. I don't say this to excuse any problems that people may have with our cats loosening off I just point it out so that I can explain what is happening... A brief explanation...With the heat and cool cycles that the stock manifold, our flange and flair go through when the car heats up and then cools down, expansion and contraction takes place. The manifold, our flange, and flair on the pipe are all different thicknesses and the materials are also dissimilar. This causes expansion and contraction at different rates which is the source of the problem with the nuts loosening. If the contact point where the stock ball on the manifold meets our flair were bigger they would "seat" together with more surface area and move together better during the heat and cool cycle and not come loose. Chrysler uses a special formed flange ( no flair ) to seat their converter but as yet we haven't found a supplier to make a similar flange.

I have discussed this problem extensively with my co-workers and we believe we have come to a solution that will fix this issue for anyone that is having it. I have one more person to talk to about this tomorrow morning and then we'll post the findings.

B5Blue1 can you please give me a call tomorrow morning and we can talk about your issues and what we can offer you as a fix etc. My # is 905-703-1557.

We appreciate all the support that the Challenger community has given us through the years and we take customer satisfaction to heart. We want all of our customers to be satisfied with our products and if there is an issue we definitely will work diligently at making it right for you. Thank you for your support and patience and we'll post again tomorrow morning.
Hi Guys. Our flange on the SRT-8 cats is a floating flange and we did it this way for ease of installation and adjust-ability. In light of the problems that some people are experiencing due to the heat / cool cycles explained above, we have decided to weld this flange to the pipe. We are getting a SRT-8 into our store tomorrow to jig up for this and any future converters sent out by Solo will have the flange tack welded to the pipe. With the flange permanently fixed to the pipe it in essence makes the flair and flange one unit. This will push any flair to flange expansion and contraction differential further down ( past the flange ) where it will be unable to loosen off.

For existing SRT-8 customers having this problem...If you are able to come to our shop ( Buffalo to Toronto ) we will do this weld for free on your existing converters. If you are from out of town and can't get to us and want to do this...take it to a shop, have them tighten the nuts and check that it is leak free. Then weld a small 1/2" to 3/4" long weld in roughly the 12:00 o'clock and 6:00 o'clock position ( flange to pipe ). This should be under $75.00 as it is fairly easy and fast for a shop to do. A regular mig weld will work, it doesn't have to be a stainless steel mig-weld.

E-mail us the receipt at [email protected] and we will reimburse the original purchaser what you paid for the weld up to $75.00 by Paypal or check ( your choice. ) Not all people have this problem and we urge you not to do this unless you're experiencing the problem. Before we reimburse you we need to know the name that the original order was placed under and that you are the original purchaser. We look forward to clearing these matters up as quickly as possible. We are having our first test car ( B5blue1 )coming into our store this Wednesday morning to get the weld done on his existing converters and will keep you informed of the results. We are confident that it will work well and solve the problem.

From Steve / Jeff and all of us at Solo we apologize for any inconvenience this has caused and look forward to resolving these issues. Thanks.
i seem to be having a similar problem steve/jeff since october my hi flows always seem to be getting loose. its very irritating now. i have had the exhaust shop tighten them a million times. i love the product but this issue keeps repeating within 50 kms ( im in the middle east) of tightening the nuts.

It was probably the last nice day in southern Ontario today so I took the Challenger for a boot. I thought I would have to wait until next summer to report on the welding fix but we have an answer. It does not work! In less than 200 kilometers since the welding my CEL light is on again. I checked the codes and same as always, P2096 & P2098 exhaust leaks. Steve, Jeff , where do we go from here guys?????
i dont get CELs i have a charger SRT8 but my CATs keep getting loose
i can hear the exhaust leak all the time. im fed up of going to the shop to keep getting it tightened. im going to remove them it sucks cause this is a superb product
 
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