Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After reading so many recommendations that any good mobile audio build will include some sound deadening, I have finally decided to do it. This is my first time attempting such voodoo/black magic, so I’m not sure how much of an improvement to expect, or even what kind of improvement I should expect.

Will it help the stereo system sound better because of a reduction in outside noises coming in, or will it just stop all the little rattles and squeaks so I’m not constantly annoyed when I really turn the volume up? I don’t know...maybe both, maybe neither. But I plan on finding out soon.

I have purchased a package of the sound deadener that comes in 24”x16” sheets (2.67 sq ft), so I’ll be giving my progress reports as I finish body panels 1 or 2 sheets at a time.

This particular brand I purchased comes with instructions that say I should pre-heat the material to 140F before installation to ensure maximum adhesion. To accomplish this I am using a little simulated fireplace space heater to warm the sheets as I place them in front of it standing up.

image.jpg

Beyond that, the only other special consideration is to use a special little roller tool to flatten out all sections of the applied material.

image.jpg

And now set me to my tasks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
First up: the spare tire well of my trunk. I used two sheets to complete this job, cutting them into strips first, then heating them up, and finally rolling them into place.

It ain’t pretty, but it is done:


BDACA37D-D983-4F09-B8DD-01E86A6C92EB.jpeg

EB116D25-784F-44A6-A4E1-18E4DA2D63BE.jpeg

B0EF6ED6-1895-422F-9902-78C2D6FB66A9.jpeg

Next up: the rear deck

After that: the inside walls of the trunk/rear quarter panels.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Oh yeah, I forgot to include my panel prep routine. It didn’t specify this in the instructions, it is just something I figured would work well for what I needed (a clean surface to adhere to):

1) vacuum target area with shop vac to remove any loose debris. (This is only if it’s applicable; obviously I will skip this step with vertical panels and such.)

2) spray down target surface with a mild degreaser & water mixture, rub vigorously with towel, dry with another towel.

3) spray down target surface with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (mixed ~50/50), dry off with a new towel.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,836 Posts
the other area might be under that rubber matting [since you have the police version - no carpeting] for the interior - don't know if much sound insulation is applied compared to the carpeted version.

You could probably remove the door sill trim and peel back the matting to see it there's sound insulation applied or not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
the other area might be under that rubber matting [since you have the police version - no carpeting] for the interior - don't know if much sound insulation is applied compared to the carpeted version.

You could probably remove the door sill trim and peel back the matting to see it there's sound insulation applied or not.
Yeah I know I’ll need to do the floor pans under the front seats, but I just really don’t want to pull the seats right now...ugh!

Besides, last time I went digging around under the mat beneath the seats, I found a live .40 round (hollow point!) and a digital cam’s memory card with pics from someone’s bedroom on it. (No, I don’t think they were crime scene photos, or if they were, it was the cleanest crime ever what with no blood being visible anywhere.)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Looks like the inside of the rear quarter panels will take 3 sheets total. (Finished with the left one and used 1.5 sheets.)


6D37CB58-FADB-48ED-B0E6-93B2678D82E2.jpeg


DC07ED52-619A-4A4B-9C71-7FEDE7DF8540.jpeg
 

·
Premium Member
2014 SRT 8
Joined
·
471 Posts
Never seen it put on like that, guess car shows waste the product at customer expensence ?? (full sheet)

My goal is the rubber coat the inner fenders first, since most of the noise come from there...………..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Never seen it put on like that, guess car shows waste the product at customer expensence ?? (full sheet)

My goal is the rubber coat the inner fenders first, since most of the noise come from there...………..
Hell IDK, I’m flying by the sheet of my pants here...I read somewhere you only need 30% coverage of a body panel to be effective, and I know it has to be fully compressed onto the sheet metal to stay put, so I’m trying to avoid spots that would make it hard to get completely down.

Now you have me wondering...oh well, too late to do anything about it now. Once it’s down, the instructions say not to try removing it as it’s pretty much permanently affixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
Never seen it put on like that, guess car shows waste the product at customer expensence ?? (full sheet)

My goal is the rubber coat the inner fenders first, since most of the noise come from there...………..
This is true, also when building a custom old resto they lay down as much as they can. But it is effective in pieces as Nuke has done, did the same process on my cousins ‘70 RS SS camaro. Worked like a charm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Yep, what Nuke is doing will work fine. When I did my Impala, I used as large pieces as possible for complete coverage, but my understanding is that it's not really needed for good results. The more coverage, the better, but 100% coverage is not actually needed for good results.

Here are some pics from when I did my Impala. I used Noico 80mil deadener and then put Noico Liner (closed cell foam) on top of it.

Here is a shot of the inside of my door (so this is the back side of the outer door sheet metal:


Here are some shots of my rear deck - first is just the deadener:


Then with the closed cell foam on top of the deadener:


And finally I laid the stock "jute" material back down over top of the deadener/foam combo:


For the doors, the impact was huge - the midbass was so much better. For the rear deck, it was mainly to keep vibration noises at bay (the Pionner D-series speakers I used in the Impala produced tons of bass for 6x9 speakers!).

I really need to get this done on my Challenger next. Just need to get a power window issue resolved under warranty before I go sealing them up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Finished adding that stuff to the inside rear quarter panels, and with that and the stuff I put down inside the spare tire well I can tell a difference in before and after with the rock and roll bass notes from my sub back there. They are tighter and don’t have any muddiness at all. I didn’t really notice it had much muddiness before, but now that it’s gone I can tell what’s different.

Now I just need to get motivated and do the rear deck and whatever else I can find the energy to pull apart and cover over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
If you do your doors, you'll notice a big difference in the midbass from the doors. It's probably the area that provides the most noticeable results. Well worth the effort!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
If you do your doors, you'll notice a big difference in the midbass from the doors. It's probably the area that provides the most noticeable results. Well worth the effort!
FINE! I’ll do the doors instead of playing with my TranZformer.

I’m only halfway done with the process of dialing in all the individual gear shift firmness settings for AutoStick upshifts, and then I still have all the downshifts to dial in for AutoStick. But I will put ALL that on hold to sound treat my doors.

I swear, I don’t know what you have against my TranZformer. Is it because this Xmas present has brought me the most joy post Xmas in almost 40 years of Xmases?

Or, as I suspect is more likely, are you secretly part of the anti-TranZformer lobby that seeks out TranZformer enthusiasts and tries to prevent them from enjoying their new product as much as possible.

Either way, I will eventually get all my gear shift firmness settings dialed in, for both up and down shifts and for both regular Auto and AutoStick operation. It’s inevitable, it WILL happen.

Maybe then, when you see you cannot keep a good TranZformer down, is when you’ll finally understand the fruitlessness of your campaign. And then maybe, just maybe, you we’ll allow you to switch sides and come work for us...

BOOO-AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

<coughcough>

Sorry, what were we talking about again? oh yeah, my doors...okay, better get started heating up the material...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
If you do your doors, you'll notice a big difference in the midbass from the doors. It's probably the area that provides the most noticeable results. Well worth the effort!
Houston, we got a problem...a real pickle of one in fact. I don’t see any way to add my sound deadening to the inside of my doors:

83215D1A-739D-4222-8F7C-D8FBAD316C96.jpeg CE86A5BA-6A6D-4676-A346-50EF956357FD.jpeg 64A39BFD-47C7-4D46-807A-3D5994505A10.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Boosted 2014 R/T Shaker M6
Joined
·
2,196 Posts
After reading so many recommendations that any good mobile audio build will include some sound deadening, I have finally decided to do it. This is my first time attempting such voodoo/black magic, so I’m not sure how much of an improvement to expect, or even what kind of improvement I should expect.

Will it help the stereo system sound better because of a reduction in outside noises coming in, or will it just stop all the little rattles and squeaks so I’m not constantly annoyed when I really turn the volume up? I don’t know...maybe both, maybe neither. But I plan on finding out soon.

I have purchased a package of the sound deadener that comes in 24”x16” sheets (2.67 sq ft), so I’ll be giving my progress reports as I finish body panels 1 or 2 sheets at a time.

This particular brand I purchased comes with instructions that say I should pre-heat the material to 140F before installation to ensure maximum adhesion. To accomplish this I am using a little simulated fireplace space heater to warm the sheets as I place them in front of it standing up.

View attachment 983552

Beyond that, the only other special consideration is to use a special little roller tool to flatten out all sections of the applied material.

View attachment 983553

And now set me to my tasks!
Look at you, and here I am thinking about adding cutouts...
983602
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Look at you, and here I am thinking about adding cutouts... View attachment 983602
✂⭕🚫

that was my emoji version of “cut-it-out”, yeah, I know, not very good, but better than making the motions with my hands where you couldn’t see them...or could you 🤨
 

·
Super Moderator
2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
Joined
·
14,849 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,328 Posts
Discussion Starter #18

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,161 Posts
FINE! I’ll do the doors instead of playing with my TranZformer.

I’m only halfway done with the process of dialing in all the individual gear shift firmness settings for AutoStick upshifts, and then I still have all the downshifts to dial in for AutoStick. But I will put ALL that on hold to sound treat my doors.

I swear, I don’t know what you have against my TranZformer. Is it because this Xmas present has brought me the most joy post Xmas in almost 40 years of Xmases?

Or, as I suspect is more likely, are you secretly part of the anti-TranZformer lobby that seeks out TranZformer enthusiasts and tries to prevent them from enjoying their new product as much as possible.

Either way, I will eventually get all my gear shift firmness settings dialed in, for both up and down shifts and for both regular Auto and AutoStick operation. It’s inevitable, it WILL happen.

Maybe then, when you see you cannot keep a good TranZformer down, is when you’ll finally understand the fruitlessness of your campaign. And then maybe, just maybe, you we’ll allow you to switch sides and come work for us...

BOOO-AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

<coughcough>

Sorry, what were we talking about again? oh yeah, my doors...okay, better get started heating up the material...
you just turn the shift firmness all the way up for both up and down shifts.... Should snap your neck under hard acceleration and deceleration but, isn't that the point?

Might even "chirp" the tires.... "Torque Grab" as I call it on downshifts is awesome!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
I have no idea what's going on with your doors from those pictures. Obviously, there must be a way to get to the door metal - and inside the door (or else you could never replace a window regulator, for example). Sounds like it's more work than you are willing to do though - and I can't say I blame you - those doors look very different than the Challenger doors!
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top