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Does anyone have any experience installing Stack Performance Chubby Pro Sway Bars? I'm planning to order some and have them put on my car and I'm wondering how long it generally takes to install them. I don't have access to a lift and am not particularly car savvy so I was planning on having it done by a local shop and was just trying to get an idea of how much I'll have to pay (on a per hour basis).

I don't know if it matters but my car is a 2010 Challenger R/T Classic. From what I've read in other threads it sounds like (for any replacement sway bar) the front one goes on pretty easily but the rear one can be a pain.
 

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The whole job might be 2.5 hours for front & rear.

I did mine in my garage with jackstands and a floor jack...the rear isn't that bad - you just have to unbolt a few things to be able to lower the IRS cradle.

The IRS only needs to be lowered a few inches, so there's no need to disconnect exhaust or driveline.

You basically disconnect the rear resonator supports, brake hose brackets, ABS harnesses, and the upper shock bolts, lower the IRS, unbolt the rear swaybar end links and brackets and reverse the process for the new bar install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The whole job might be 2.5 hours for front & rear.

I did mine in my garage with jackstands and a floor jack...the rear isn't that bad - you just have to unbolt a few things to be able to lower the IRS cradle.

The IRS only needs to be lowered a few inches, so there's no need to disconnect exhaust or driveline.

You basically disconnect the rear resonator supports, brake hose brackets, ABS harnesses, and the upper shock bolts, lower the IRS, unbolt the rear swaybar end links and brackets and reverse the process for the new bar install.
Thanks for the info Hal... it sounds like it won't be too expensive to have them installed. Everything I've read suggests that it make a significant and noticeable improvement in the handling so I think I'll go ahead with it. Thanks again.
 

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The whole job might be 2.5 hours for front & rear.

I did mine in my garage with jackstands and a floor jack...the rear isn't that bad - you just have to unbolt a few things to be able to lower the IRS cradle.

The IRS only needs to be lowered a few inches, so there's no need to disconnect exhaust or driveline.

You basically disconnect the rear resonator supports, brake hose brackets, ABS harnesses, and the upper shock bolts, lower the IRS, unbolt the rear swaybar end links and brackets and reverse the process for the new bar install.
I used your little disconnect list above last night, to swap out the rear bar on my wifes 300c :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

In my case I was also swapping out the springs and shocks for those I got in the SRT Suspension kit. :)
It took me about 4hrs at a very leisurely pace...
That includes a 1/2hour+ search for my missing drive extension & later a 16mm socket


Having not done it before and being overly cautious... one thing I also did while dropping the cradle, after it was down about 2" (just before the front bolts let go) was to swap the much longer rear cradle bolts to the front position(turned them in about 1/2"). Then I continued to drop it down using the longer bolts up front just as a guide to make sure I didn't twist anything out of place. I left them in, the whole time. After I got the sway bar out, I had to drop it a little more to get the springs out... but the OP isn't doing that, so he shouldn't have to go as low..

Worked like a champ...
Hardest part was trying to spin the old sway bar the right way to cork screw it though the brake lines.
Kept snagging things.. once I got the right angle and spin, it came right out.

PS: If anyone ever tells you that a hemi 300c came with the same rear sway as a standard RT anything...
They are full of $#!^... no wonder the car leaned like a drunken old lady in the turns...

Below is what I pulled out
Stinking 12mm sway bar :notallthere: Replaced it with the 20mm STP bar above it






Improved the roll 200% and I haven't even replaced the puny 25mm front one yet.
 

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PS: If anyone ever tells you that a hemi 300c came with the same rear sway as a standard RT anything...
They are full of $#!^... no wonder the car leaned like a drunken old lady in the turns...

Below is what I pulled out
Stinking 12mm sway bar :notallthere: Replaced it with the 20mm STP bar above it






Improved the roll 200% and I haven't even replaced the puny 25mm front one yet.
Wow - the stock Challenger R/T and SRT bars are 30mm front and 16mm back (and those were too 'soft' for my liking)...they really wanted a S-O-F-T handling car with those 300s. I imagine the 300 SRT8 got beefier bars.
 

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Wow - the stock Challenger R/T and SRT bars are 30mm front and 16mm back (and those were too 'soft' for my liking)...they really wanted a S-O-F-T handling car with those 300s. I imagine the 300 SRT8 got beefier bars.
Ya it was pretty pathetic ...

Thing is, now with the 20mm bar back there the ride isn't rough.... it just stays a hell of a lot flatter in the turns.
Soon as I score a RT/SRT (take off) bar to put up front I'll be happy as a pig in ___ :bigthumb:

However i did knock the mileage indicator down from 20mpg at 110 miles... to 15mpg before it got to the 150mile mark. :disgust:
Been having fun with it... lots of fun... and could care less about mpg.
Next week I hand it back over to the old lady and mileage will be right back up where it was
 

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Cant wait to get the chubby pros on our car! Glad they are working out so well for you, Stack is awesome! :D
 
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