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Maybe Ive missed something here but today I started up my car with the key fob - as I walked up to it - noticed it was sounding pretty rough - never heard it like that with hot or cold starts - it was bobbing around 1100 rpm- I got in and automatically gave it a few revs like it was an old car warming up - on the second tap of the accelerator everything died. I was a little shocked and closed the door put my foot on brake and hit the auto start button and it fired up again - the idle was still rough but it drove off fine. Is this some safety feature with it not being in full drive mode ? Also I had someone tell me that these cars wake up after 3000 miles and then they are alot quicker (tuning ?) - is this true ?. I have 1000 miles on it and have been fairly mellow until lately.
2010 srt auto.
 

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Shut down

Does it turn off when giving it gas in the running park mode (acc) what ever you call it ? I did it again yest and it shut down again - Im guessing its a safety thing ?? hasn't shut down while driving thankfully.
 

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I had someone tell me that these cars wake up after 3000 miles and then they are alot quicker (tuning ?) - is this true ?. I have 1000 miles on it and have been fairly mellow until lately.
2010 srt auto.
My SRT8 shut down as I was pulling into a parking lot after just driving 2hrs on the hwy. Only happened once & only had about 1000 miles on it. I was near a dam with lots of powerlines so maybe??? 7000 miles later no more shut downs. I did take it to the dealer but they didn't find anything.

As long as you are at operating temp pushing the new motor in short burst is actually better for it. It helps to seat the rings quicker verses causing excess wear on the cylinder walls due to keeping the rpms too low early in life.

I've been fortunate to have high dyno numbers & quick 1/4 mile times with my stock cars and I believe it's the way I break my cars in. Not babied but not beaten. I've taken many of my rides beyond 200k miles without failure.

Here's a bit from what I read reciently but I've put to practice for the last 35 years.

"Most people seem to operate on the philosophy that they can best get their money's worth from any mechanical device by treating it with great care. This is probably true, but in many cases it is necessary to interpret what great care really means. This is particularly applicable when considering the break-in of a modern, reciprocating engine.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again."

Now go out & enjoy! You want to really wake your SRT8 auto up install the Predator 93 tune. It gave me the lowend tq that it was missing stock making it much more fun to drive but alot harder to launch without spinning the tires.
 
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