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I have a new core, I ran it last night at Baytown and the best I could get was 13.2 at 108
Do y'all have shifting techniques to share?? I couldn't launch! I was spinning with traction control on and burning tires with it off! It was fun, great night! But I know I'm not driving the car to its potential! I don't understand the reaction time numbers/ I had .500 to .601
Tips please!! How much do y'all think drag radials will help on the 20" wheels?
 

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Get 17" cobra wheels with hoosier 28x10x17 slicks and your gonna easily be in the 12s. Or buy some nitto nt555R's and you might break into the 12.999s

Honestly its the BEST mod for the track. You can put twin turbos on your car but will still get smojed buy the guy in thr g35 with slicks. Js
 

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I have a new core, I ran it last night at Baytown and the best I could get was 13.2 at 108
Do y'all have shifting techniques to share?? I couldn't launch! I was spinning with traction control on and burning tires with it off! It was fun, great night! But I know I'm not driving the car to its potential! I don't understand the reaction time numbers/ I had .500 to .601
Tips please!! How much do y'all think drag radials will help on the 20" wheels?
Thats not to bad based on RT's of .500-.601. the best your going see would be 12.8 with the M6 no?
 

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best thing you could do is change to a Automatic transmission....easy way to drop .4 off your time....if I ease down the accelerator my wheels don't spin at all...its all go
 

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best thing you could do is change to a Automatic transmission....easy way to drop .4 off your time....if I ease down the accelerator my wheels don't spin at all...its all go
Yep put the car in Dumb....I mean drive and let it do all the work. I would rather be .2 seconds slower and have the knowledge that I accomplished that but hey we live in modern America. Why do something yourself when you can have someone or something else do it for you.

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practice....have fun...M6 is the way to go...
The key to a more efficient launch on the M6, is trying to keep rpm no greater than 2.5K and feathering the throttle from 1st. Then more from 2nd on up...

If you give too much on launch, you'll spin and smoke the tires (and likely get wheelhop = bad for the diff.) and have slower ETs. You don't rev and dump the clutch on these newer cars - it won't give good results.

Its practice and technique to master that with the M6 - with the 'auto trans its less complicated and easier to have consistency...but that's a whole different game...

I don't recall if the Core SRT8s have launch control, but its getting the launch rpms down enough that you don't spin, yet don't bog either...its a technique that is acquired.
 

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The key to a more efficient launch on the M6, is trying to keep rpm no greater than 2.5K and feathering the throttle from 1st. Then more from 2nd on up...

If you give too much on launch, you'll spin and smoke the tires (and likely get wheelhop = bad for the diff.) and have slower ETs. You don't rev and dump the clutch on these newer cars - it won't give good results.

Its practice and technique to master that with the M6 - with the 'auto trans its less complicated and easier to have consistency...but that's a whole different game...

I don't recall if the Core SRT8s have launch control, but its getting the launch rpms down enough that you don't spin, yet don't bog either...its a technique that is acquired.
There is wisdom here. I have been to the strip with my car 3 times, and I've come to learn that it's kind of a less is more situation. Just give her enough revs to scoot out, then plant it and let the torque do the work.
 

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Is it possible to do this with the launch control?


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Yes - the launch control allows (user defined) settings for what rpm they wish to set it at.

It can be set from 2,500rpm to 4,500rpm in 250rpm increments for the 6-speed cars. (For the 'auto versions, it will hold rpms to 1,825 - likely the stall speed of the converter).

Launch control operates at up to vehicle speeds of 62mph.
 

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I'm sure there are many variables, hal, but what asking is there an rpm that's best to set my launch control at. Alot of what im reading on launching the SRT says to not use the launch control. Is this the case, or are the people who are writing it not using the launch control correctly?

I only have 350 miles on my core and have been able to try it yet. Heck, I haven't even launched it hard yet. :(

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I'm sure there are many variables, hal, but what asking is there an rpm that's best to set my launch control at.
A lot of what im reading on launching the SRT says to not use the launch control. Is this the case, or are the people who are writing it not using the launch control correctly?

I only have 350 miles on my core and have been able to try it yet. Heck, I haven't even launched it hard yet. :(http://www.autoguide.com/mobile
It probably will depend on track surface, model/make of tires and the temperatures...so it takes some trial & error to find what works. Many posts here mention the ~2.5K as the starting point to find out what works for them.

There's no hard rules - for those non launch control cars, you have to see what rpm and clutch application yields the best results.
 

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why don't you break the engine in first, for another 1000 miles or so and other internals before expecting 1/4 miles times

at 350 miles on the clock you already made it to the track? wow....

the 392 gets loose around 700 to 1000 miles and it is not the same engine between miles zero and mile 500; lots happen with the 392 in the first 500; sending the oil temp in the 270's on a new engine is imo not a recommendation i would give

you could dump your engine oil at 1500 and stick synthetic if you don't have it; to my surprise the SRT Formulated 0w40 Pennzoil gives pretty nice results if you are interested

if you are already driving it like you stole it, dump the transmission and rear differential oil at around 3 or 4k miles and upgrade to racing type of fluid;

or may be you should do all of the above sooner rather than later

it will allow for all the metal shavings to come out and you will replace the stock mopar stuff with higher grade lubricants; i did mine at 4500 miles; i had metal particles stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug on the rear diff; so it was a good way to learn, not driving hard most of the time while breaking in internals creates a little bit of matter

engine and fuel rails covers make the engine run hot, leave them behind

read many posts on tire pressure and what it takes on run on 17" hoosier slicks before you leave your rear diff exploded and in shreds when warming up the tires before a launch

Cheers

ODP
 

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why don't you break the engine in first, for another 1000 miles or so and other internals before expecting 1/4 miles times

at 350 miles on the clock you already made it to the track? wow....

the 392 gets loose around 700 to 1000 miles and it is not the same engine between miles zero and mile 500; lots happen with the 392 in the first 500; sending the oil temp in the 270's on a new engine is imo not a recommendation i would give

you could dump your engine oil at 1500 and stick synthetic if you don't have it; to my surprise the SRT Formulated 0w40 Pennzoil gives pretty nice results if you are interested

if you are already driving it like you stole it, dump the transmission and rear differential oil at around 3 or 4k miles and upgrade to racing type of fluid;

or may be you should do all of the above sooner rather than later

it will allow for all the metal shavings to come out and you will replace the stock mopar stuff with higher grade lubricants; i did mine at 4500 miles; i had metal particles stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug on the rear diff; so it was a good way to learn, not driving hard most of the time while breaking in internals creates a little bit of matter

engine and fuel rails covers make the engine run hot, leave them behind

read many posts on tire pressure and what it takes on run on 17" hoosier slicks before you leave your rear diff exploded and in shreds when warming up the tires before a launch

Cheers

ODP
 
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