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Got a couple more Toyo Proxes Plus 4 tires and put them on the rear and had fronts that are at 8/32 rebalanced. All balanced fine. Road force looks good. The older tires were fine on the front but after spending 7K on rear had a shake when moved to front. Took the car back a couple of days later and they rebalanced all 4 on another Hunter machine after doing a calibration and they still show perfect??? So I said lets do something different and put the new ones up front. Almost good but a little movement still in the steering wheel. Went home and removed front rotors and cleaned hubs and both sides of rotor hat and back of wheel with wire brush in a drill. Again better but still there a little. Sometimes it shakes and other times its smooth. Checked for a loose tie rod they are still nice and tight. Car has 38 K on it.. Any suggestions on what I could look for?? This is driving me Nuts Err.
 

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Maybe a tire out of round.
My Daytona would do that,had front rotors turned and fixed it,but on that I could feel it some during braking.
 

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Did you get it realigned after changing out the tires? If not, that might be the culprit.
 

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Road force rules out out of round doesn't it?
It does rule out Run-out in the assembly which is under 3% of known comeback issues. Mounting errors and residual dynamic and static are over 90% of known comeback issues.

My suggestion is make sure you are mounting the wheels correctly and if the Road Force Balancer has Smart Weight turned on, turn it off. In Smart Weight Mode the Balancer will hide an excessive amount of Dynamic Balance or side to side shake in the assembly, it drives Static to a low amount which is up and down shake.

Just because you Road Force a tire and wheel (Which by the way is NOT balancing the tire/wheel) doesn't mean you don't have to do a quality Balance. The Smart Weight feature is a feature that helps the shop save on the costs of wheel weights, but what it does is actually sacrifice Balance quality.

My suggestion is put the Balancer in Fine Mode and get Static and Dynamic under .10oz and you have a true Performance Balance.
 

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1) Picture Shows a tire that has just been Balanced in "Smart Weight" Mode.


2) Picture Shows same tire that has been Balanced in "Smart Weight" Mode but in Normal or Conventional Balancing Mode. This shows that "Smart Weight" Mode hid .75oz a side of Residual Dynamic Balance.


Most Shops have no idea how this really works on their Balancer and more than likely can't even take it out of Smart Weight Mode. Ask them to take it out of Smart Weight Mode, if they don't know then go to another shop.
 

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btw: Great point on the Smart Weight!


Smart Weight?

Please Don't tell me they (HUNTER) use this as a selling point to shop's to help sell this machine?

Where do the quarters go?
$405.91 A PROGRESSIVE JACKPOT

"guess they do"
Features


  • SmartWeight® improves overall balancing results, saves over 30% on wheel weight costs and boosts productivity through more efficient weight application.
 

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^^ exactly what 345challenger said. I'd do both road force and take it out of smart weight. On 99% of cars smart weight is used and maybe 1 car every two weeks will come back for a vibration which is usually due to something minor that the operator missed. It saves money, but when you are having issues like above people need to realize that the problem is probably not the tire.
 

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^^ exactly what 345challenger said. I'd do both road force and take it out of smart weight. On 99% of cars smart weight is used and maybe 1 car every two weeks will come back for a vibration which is usually due to something minor that the operator missed. It saves money, but when you are having issues like above people need to realize that the problem is probably not the tire.
The 1 car every two weeks just means the 100+ Customers went somewhere else.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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That's my point, people pay extra $ for a road force & balance correct, so why cut cost on top off that?
We are looking into a new RFB next spring, I will be sure to razz the Hunter guy on this 1.
I get it, just not my cup of tea,
 

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Easiest way for any Tech to get the Best Balance is make sure the right cones are used and Balance on a Direct Drive COATS Balancer. They have a 3rd Window(Total Static with Inboard and Outboard Dynamic on same screen) that lets the Tech get Dynamic & Static to well under .25oz every time, a true Performance Balance.

 

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Lots of great advice here. I would try a different shop, perhaps Discount Tire? I use to work at Goodyear back in the '80s. We didn't have roadforce balancers back then, but I always got my wheels balanced right. If the wheel took too much weight, I would dismount the tire and rotate it 180 degrees to better match the tire/wheel high/low spots. That may be your problem, but I bet it's just a bad balancing job. Tires are rarely out of round nowadays. I also has Toyo Proxes on my last car and they were smooth as glass at 80+ MPH.
 

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Lots of great advice here. I would try a different shop, perhaps Discount Tire? I use to work at Goodyear back in the '80s. We didn't have roadforce balancers back then, but I always got my wheels balanced right. If the wheel took too much weight, I would dismount the tire and rotate it 180 degrees to better match the tire/wheel high/low spots. That may be your problem, but I bet it's just a bad balancing job. Tires are rarely out of round nowadays. I also has Toyo Proxes on my last car and they were smooth as glass at 80+ MPH.
Great post here. A way to determine if moving the tire on the rim is to look at the wheels weights on the wheel. I am assuming you have weight on the inboard and outboard of wheel. If you only see weight in the middle of wheel then immediately rebalance Dynamically. If you have weights on inboard and outboard then look at how much weight you have at each location and most importantly look to see how far apart the weight is across from one another. If weight are approx 180 degrees apart you are good, but if the weights are close to each other on the wheel you have found your problem. If all the weight is in the same approx location you have induced a heavy spot and guess what it will shake even if your balancer says OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did the above suggestion Much better The rears were further out than the froints. Put the rears 8/32 on front and the new ones on the rear. I bet after they send time on the rear they may get even better :)
 
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