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I'm split between a procharger or a cam/headers build once tuning becomes avail for the 15s. The procharger build would only cost about 750 bucks or so more than the cam/headers build the way my excel spreadsheet is setup and the cost for parts and estimated labor, etc. Get more bang for the buck with a blower but it wouldn't have the lope or sound like a nasty N/A motor would have but have the procharger sound in place of it. Anyone out there running only 5 psi on a procharger?

It wouldn't be in my budget to get the drop in pistons (800) not counting the labor to install them. Some are running 6-7 psi on the stock pistions and have been running fine. I feel 5 psi is even a little bit safer.

Driving habits: car would only see 6k miles per year. 20-40 passes a year at the strip roughly. Spirited driving out on the street occasionally.
 

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Just my opinion but I think an NA build would be really cool. I like superchargers, but you'll always hear the Hellcat comparisons. An NA Scat Pack cracking off solid 11's would be awesome. Something I might look at down the road. Think it would be unique and you should be able to make some great power.
 

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Just my opinion but I think an NA build would be really cool. I like superchargers, but you'll always hear the Hellcat comparisons. An NA Scat Pack cracking off solid 11's would be awesome. Something I might look at down the road. Think it would be unique and you should be able to make some great power.
I'm looking at my estimates and I can either go:

cam
headers
ported intake
tb
cai

those mods combined would add 80-85 HP, so with a stock 392 making 412 at the wheels it would put this NA build around 492-497 at the wheels

or...

bolt on a procharger with low boost at 5psi so it's safe with stock pistons and easily make another 100 at the wheels or so and be over 500 at the wheels total making 625 crank HP and run 11.7 all day.
 

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I'm looking at my estimates and I can either go:

cam
headers
ported intake
tb
cai

those mods combined would add 80-85 HP, so with a stock 392 making 412 at the wheels it would put this NA build around 492-497 at the wheels

or...

bolt on a procharger with low boost at 5psi so it's safe with stock pistons and easily make another 100 at the wheels or so and be over 500 at the wheels total making 625 crank HP and run 11.7 all day.
What kind of state emissions testing do you have to do? Is it annually? Can be a pain if your guy who knows a guy with a guy who does inspections moves on.
Personally, I'd wait until that thing can be tuned and get a feel for the A8s potential. If it puts down the estimated 40% more tq, more power won't be your savior. You're gonna freak in the difference greatly reduced tq mgmnt fells like and hooks like. At least in a A5 with a B&G ECU to Stock (even DS canned), it's night and day. With my stock ECU, I can pretty much nail it in a corner or off the line and the nannies will save my butt. Greatly reduced Tq mgmnt and your in the crapper pretty quick.
Your estimates are with a tune to support them. I'm thinking the additional intake air flow mods aren't additive. Pick the highest one and go with that #. I think I've read 40ish for the cam (tuned with the phaser locked), 10 for LTs with catted mids.
There is a point where more power won't help the ET much without making it bullet proof (axels, TC, drive shaft, possibly a 8.8 rear, etc) That gets expensive and alters how it drives on the street. I get the most enjoyment out of my car in driving to the track with the AC on, tunes, nav, ear to ear grin and running 11s then driving home. All I do is air up the fronts and let the hoosiers down a little. Car does the rest and still drives like stock with all the comforts. That's priceless to me.
If it was a dedicated track car then hell ya, game on. Does it bug me not know what 50 more HP would feel like, it does everyday... Decided to build a Mod class next year and keep the challenger pretty much where it is now. Swap the ECU in 5 minutes and drive long enough to get all the sensors on line and pass inspection anywhere.
 

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On 392s bro, I would do pistons REGARDLESS of boost levels. Its all in the tune, so if you go to Arrington or Modern Muscle you'll be ok. I have 6 PSI and make 530 RWHP, I'll be doing forged pistons VERY SOON. But Prochargers makes more HP than maggies do, so you'll LOVE IT.
 

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I'm split between a procharger or a cam/headers build once tuning becomes avail for the 15s. The procharger build would only cost about 750 bucks or so more than the cam/headers build the way my excel spreadsheet is setup and the cost for parts and estimated labor, etc. Get more bang for the buck with a blower but it wouldn't have the lope or sound like a nasty N/A motor would have but have the procharger sound in place of it. Anyone out there running only 5 psi on a procharger?

It wouldn't be in my budget to get the drop in pistons (800) not counting the labor to install them. Some are running 6-7 psi on the stock pistions and have been running fine. I feel 5 psi is even a little bit safer.

Driving habits: car would only see 6k miles per year. 20-40 passes a year at the strip roughly. Spirited driving out on the street occasionally.

Did you do any of these?
 

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I'm split between a procharger or a cam/headers build once tuning becomes avail for the 15s. The procharger build would only cost about 750 bucks or so more than the cam/headers build the way my excel spreadsheet is setup and the cost for parts and estimated labor, etc. Get more bang for the buck with a blower but it wouldn't have the lope or sound like a nasty N/A motor would have but have the procharger sound in place of it. Anyone out there running only 5 psi on a procharger?

It wouldn't be in my budget to get the drop in pistons (800) not counting the labor to install them. Some are running 6-7 psi on the stock pistions and have been running fine. I feel 5 psi is even a little bit safer.

Driving habits: car would only see 6k miles per year. 20-40 passes a year at the strip roughly. Spirited driving out on the street occasionally.
If you do a cam build you need to change out your heads. They got to come off anyways, might as well upgrade them to ported heads, new springs, and bigger valves. I know it cost more coin, but a new cam requires more air flow and ported heads go hand in hand with it.
 

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Food for thought...you can buy a blower and if you ever want to go back to stock, you can. And recoup some of your investment. Not that you can't with heads/cam, but the cost is so much more than lets say, a ford 302 heads/cam and the current combo flows very well.
 

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If you are going to keep the engine in high revs then the Procharger will make good power, if you are going to more street the car a Twin screw like a Kenne Bell makes power from the get go and keeps it going though the rev range.
Regardless of who makes the blower, 8 pounds of boost at the same temp is 8 pounds of boost but when the boost hits is dependent on the blower design.
NA or blown, well it is pretty much a personal choice. As mentioned above, keep your stock parts and you could fairly easily return the car to stock and move the blower to your next car, that is not true with internal parts.
 

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If you are going to do Cam/headers make sure you have a reputable installer along with a known dodge tuner. With good tuning you should be able to hit 500 rwhp.
 

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If you are going to keep the engine in high revs then the Procharger will make good power, if you are going to more street the car a Twin screw like a Kenne Bell makes power from the get go and keeps it going though the rev range.
Regardless of who makes the blower, 8 pounds of boost at the same temp is 8 pounds of boost but when the boost hits is dependent on the blower design.
NA or blown, well it is pretty much a personal choice. As mentioned above, keep your stock parts and you could fairly easily return the car to stock and move the blower to your next car, that is not true with internal parts.
I've had had several combo's...a H/C N2O LS1, an 03 Cobra with different combo's (fastest was a whipple w/spray), a STS TBSS (super fun, went 12.0 with stock motor on 22's), and my current car, a SP. I don't see the aftermarket support for these cars like I did for the LS and ford community. There seems to be more people content with things as is...nothing wrong with that but that's not me. To me, 11's are not fast at all. It's going to be how you want it. The new pro chargers are way better than they were back in 2000. I knew a few guys with KB's on their Cobras, and not once did I ever wish I had one (my cobra was very light compared to other ones, and I sprayed a stock blower all day) vs a whipple. I didn't fall in love with the whipple until I cranked up over 18 lbs (8.5:1). I was hoping Hellion had kits for the 392's, but I'm not seeing any.

Personally, I'm going to do rods and pistons. I don't see a reason that these cars can't make 750hp and be just as street able. My H/C trans am became no fun to drive. Things have changed since then, but it was a 3600 stall, Futral cam, heads done, headers...and limited timing back then. Now I'm putting out more torque stock lol
 

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My vote is for the blower! As stated before.......As long as you have a Great tune!

I can only state on a GM (I'm very familiar with them and New to Mopar), but a pound of boost will get you 20-25 horses per pound (Rear wheel, not crank hp). If you run 5 psi, then as you stated, you'll get 100-125 RWHP and have room to grow. It's just a pulley change and a tune adjustment away. When you put in pistons, then you change your pulley, upgrade your fuel system and tune and 600 rwhp wouldn't be that hard to get.

Also, I see that you're in Illinois and if they run emission tests, they are Much easier to pass with a centrifugal blower than a lopey cam would be. I actually passed emissions in my old C5 Vette (Vortech blower, heads, cam and meth) without catalytic converters on (my car was too low to look under too, so visual was out:grin2:). I doubt that would've worked had I put in something like a G5X3 or G5X4 cam and heads).

The Procharger doesn't change the way your car drives out of boost, but when you get into boost, it's a whole different story. Driveability is like stock, because it basically is.

You could put some meth on for insurance too for added insurance against leaning out.

I do agree that a nice N/A motor with a lopey cam sounds Awesome, but having had cars with those setups, I'll take the upside to a blower any day............Now a turbo setup is a different story! :grin2:

Good Luck on your choice! :cheers:
 

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I like everything you mentioned you can always do it in phases. The bigger question is what do you envision your being when your done having a direction is the first starting point. Are you mostly street/show; street/strip; show-n-go there are many options and directions you can go. Knowing what your looking to do would be helpful and it would get you some direct answers. :guiness:
 

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My vote is for the blower! As stated before.......As long as you have a Great tune!

I can only state on a GM (I'm very familiar with them and New to Mopar), but a pound of boost will get you 20-25 horses per pound (Rear wheel, not crank hp). If you run 5 psi, then as you stated, you'll get 100-125 RWHP and have room to grow. It's just a pulley change and a tune adjustment away. When you put in pistons, then you change your pulley, upgrade your fuel system and tune and 600 rwhp wouldn't be that hard to get
Benefit of compression!
 

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Benefit of compression!
True, but the downside is that you can't run as much boost. I think that the perfect compression for a centrifugal blower would be 9.5-10:1 because off boost you still can make decent power, but still have low enough compression that the boost can fill the cylinders. Of course you can go higher in compression if running E85 because alcohol likes compression.

As stated earlier, the tune is critical and until someone comes out with a sure fire way to tune the '15's, I'd hold off a bit. That's just me though but I'm Happy with how our car runs stock.

Just my thoughts! :cheers:
 

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Benefit of compression!
True, but the downside is that you can't run as much boost. I think that the perfect compression for a centrifugal blower would be 9.5-10:1 because off boost you still can make decent power, but still have low enough compression that the boost can fill the cylinders. Of course you can go higher in compression if running E85 because alcohol likes compression.

As stated earlier, the tune is critical and until someone comes out with a sure fire way to tune the '15's, I'd hold off a bit. That's just me though but I'm Happy with how our car runs stock.

Just my thoughts!
What's wrong with the tuning out now? Diablo and HPTuners...
 

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What's wrong with the tuning out now? Diablo and HPTuners...
I don't know much about Diablo, so I can't say, but having used HP Tuners and EfiLive on GM products, that software works well. Hp Tuners was Very capable, but I liked EfiLive better, for no other reason than I was more comfortable with the GUI on it. but that's not pertinent here. If I had to tune or get my car tuned, I wouldn't feel uncomfortable at all having it done with HP Tuners.

I actually like the idea of HPT over Diablo because you have the option of tuning it yourself and not rely on someones schedule any time you added a mod or log files. The bad part is that with self tuning, if you mess it up, you've got no one else to blame.

I haven't kept up on the HP Tuners forum for a while, but I heard that they haven't cracked the trans tuning yet.

I could be wrong though because I haven't looked into any tuning solutions yet. Maybe they've cracked the code.
 

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Going to throw my 2 cents in. I currently daily drive a Procharged 392 with stock bottom end. I also have untuned water/meth injection for safety reasons. I am pushing 568RWHP on a mild tune (91oct) and have had no issues with it. I have probably done about 200 passes on the 1/8 mile track and I am a very spirited driver on a normal basis. I personally think that going with forced induction is the way to go. Once you start modding for big power it's not going to be enough. I'm already looking at forging and a pully swap myself. You will get the best bang for your buck with forced induction. After doing a lot of research on which supercharger to go with I choose the Procharger due to it being a daily driver and that pretty much I'm running N/A on a normal basis. Also I like it being a bit of a sleeper (Though the race intercooler gives it away) as the Procharger is a pretty quiet set up. During a road rally that I was in earlier this year a guy running a modded GTR stated, "What the hell do you have in that thing! You just come out of nowhere and just blow on by." He couldn't believe how quiet the car was compared to the other Challengers in the Rally. Though I do have a res delete on it. So she's not really that quiet. Besides if you decide to get rid of the car just pull all the parts and shift back to stock.
 

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What's wrong with the tuning out now? Diablo and HPTuners...
I don't know much about Diablo, so I can't say, but having used HP Tuners and EfiLive on GM products, that software works well. Hp Tuners was Very capable, but I liked EfiLive better, for no other reason than I was more comfortable with the GUI on it. but that's not pertinent here. If I had to tune or get my car tuned, I wouldn't feel uncomfortable at all having it done with HP Tuners.

I actually like the idea of HPT over Diablo because you have the option of tuning it yourself and not rely on someones schedule any time you added a mod or log files. The bad part is that with self tuning, if you mess it up, you've got no one else to blame.

I haven't kept up on the HP Tuners forum for a while, but I heard that they haven't cracked the trans tuning yet.

I could be wrong though because I haven't looked into any tuning solutions yet. Maybe they've cracked the code.
My 2015 SP has been tuned by Diablo, and they offer the DCX. 2015 can be tuned, requires a PCM swap. It's been out for awhile.

Fine with me, still have a bone stock PCM. Car got 24.1 mpg (I only run 93) over a 1500 mi road trip to the smokey mountains over Labor Day.
 
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