Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. I’m a new challenger owner (2019 SXT), and recently purchased a sub enclosure and amp that I wanna slap in. Read somewhere that everything can basically be done through the trunk by tapping into the rear speakers with a PAC converter. So I don’t have to take apart the dash or anything. Any help, videos, links, or pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
Pull the trunk trim out, including the lower shelf cover.

I tapped the passenger rear with some quality taps, and chased the wire down the side of the trunk, then along the trunk floor.

I mounted the amp (with built in "LOC") in the foam tray in the spare well. It made for short runs to the battery.

Connect it all, and you're good. There's a LOT of material on YouTube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What’s involved in “tapping”? And what kind of LOC should I get? I don’t have a whole lot of money, and I’ve seen some go for $20 or so. And I need a wiring kit for the amp, should I grab a 4 gauge? I don’t mean to sound stupid, I literally just have zero experience in audio work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
If you have zero experience in audio work, you should read some articles and watch some youtube videos to ascertain basic groundwork of what's going on. Then research heavily the job that you want to get done specifically. Otherwise, my recommendation is to just buy the parts and bring it to a licensed audio installer, which will not be cheap.

If you want to do something like this yourself, you really need to commit time and effort to it, like any mod that we do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
What’s involved in “tapping”? And what kind of LOC should I get? I don’t have a whole lot of money, and I’ve seen some go for $20 or so. And I need a wiring kit for the amp, should I grab a 4 gauge? I don’t mean to sound stupid, I literally just have zero experience in audio work.
The gauge will be determined by the amp specs.

Depending on the amp, if it has speaker level inputs, those are a built-in LOC to an amp.

Taps? Suitcase connectors work, but a good tap like this is better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D0C2RC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I understand how to ground it, and run the power cable. I guess I just don’t understand which speaker to tap into, and when I do, how to do it. That, and running the remote bass knob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Pioneer makes amps that will take high input so you don't need an loc. Sometimes an loc is needed, like the Audiocontrol LC2i, to control the bass roll off that some stock amps have to prevent speaker damage. You don't want the bass rolling back when you crank it up with a sub enclosure. When I did this I was under the impression I needed this but that was not true. I have a 2015 and had the alpine setup. Maybe the earlier models did the roll off but I believe 2015 and newer do not. I used both speaker inputs to the stock sub and output from my pioneer amp bridged to my kicker enclosure. Worked great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Problem is, I already have the hardware and equipment. I can’t just use one of those $20 LOC’s and tap into the rear speaker?
If you don't have the bass roll off issue I think you can just use the cheap loc. I've seen videos doing just that but they tapped into the rear 6.5 speakers because they had sound group 1 with no factory sub. Since you have the sub, I think you do, I would disconnect and use those two lines to a loc then to your amp and your good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
If you don't have the bass roll off issue I think you can just use the cheap loc. I've seen videos doing just that but they tapped into the rear 6.5 speakers because they had sound group 1 with no factory sub. Since you have the sub, I think you do, I would disconnect and use those two lines to a loc then to your amp and your good.
I second this. It would help if you could answer if you have a factory sub. Also what amp will you be using? This is a good car to start learning audio installs. Adding a sub and amp is super easy but you need the right parts and a couple of tools. Make sure you fuse the amp correctly as close as you can to the battery. Don't be that guy and not fuse. I have seen many a car burn down because of not fusing their amps. That and running the power line through the fender to door jamb trick. And no fuse. And wrong gauge Anyway, what amp do you have and I can tell you what to get..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I second this. It would help if you could answer if you have a factory sub. Also what amp will you be using? This is a good car to start learning audio installs. Adding a sub and amp is super easy but you need the right parts and a couple of tools. Make sure you fuse the amp correctly as close as you can to the battery. Don't be that guy and not fuse. I have seen many a car burn down because of not fusing their amps. That and running the power line through the fender to door jamb trick. And no fuse. And wrong gauge Anyway, what amp do you have and I can tell you what to get..

Alright, so don’t laugh at me cause it’s all I could afford and I’m not doing competitions, I just want something to fix the god awful sound system it came with stock. I have a BOSS R1100M, and 2 12” MTX Terminator’s. I decided after realizing how easy it is to get behind the head unit that I would just run the RCA cables to it, splice the speaker wires and solder them to the LOC wires with shrink tube. I figure at the same time, I can run the remote wire too. So I need to know what’s the best gauge, if a $20 LOC will be okay, and that’s about it I think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Alright, so don’t laugh at me cause it’s all I could afford and I’m not doing competitions, I just want something to fix the god awful sound system it came with stock. I have a BOSS R1100M, and 2 12” MTX Terminator’s. I decided after realizing how easy it is to get behind the head unit that I would just run the RCA cables to it, splice the speaker wires and solder them to the LOC wires with shrink tube. I figure at the same time, I can run the remote wire too. So I need to know what’s the best gauge, if a $20 LOC will be okay, and that’s about it I think.
You don't need to go to the head unit and our cars are canbus, there are no rca connections. Your amp has high and low inputs so you don't need a loc. Someone in this thread mentioned tapping the rear speakers. This is what you should do if you do not have a factory sub, you're not disconnecting from the speakers just piggy backing onto the lines. The factory wire gauge is 18 so no sense in going more than that from the speaker tap to the amp but the wires to the enclose should be 10 gauge. There are unused auxiliary fuse locations you can use in the fuse box next to your battery and use with a tap a fuse line that you can get cheap at any auto parts store to use for the remote line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
You don't need to go to the head unit and our cars are canbus, there are no rca connections. Your amp has high and low inputs so you don't need a loc. Someone in this thread mentioned tapping the rear speakers. This is what you should do if you do not have a factory sub. The factory wire gauge is 18 so no sense in going more than that from the speaker tap to the amp but the wires to the enclose should be 10 gauge. There are unused auxiliary fuse locations you can use in the fuse box next to you battery and use with a tap a fuse line that you can get cheap at any auto parts store to use for the remote line.

So basically my best and easiest option is just tap the rear speakers directly to the amp via high output..? So I don’t need an LOC at all. And you think I should get 10 gauge for the wiring kit? The amp’s manual says 8 or lower? Also, does it matter which speaker, or do I do both?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Wait is there an area to run fuses in the trunk?? I thought there was only the fuse box under the hood. So I really CAN ado everything in the trunk. Minus just running the remote bass control up to the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
You don't need to go to the head unit and our cars are canbus, there are no rca connections. Your amp has high and low inputs so you don't need a loc. Someone in this thread mentioned tapping the rear speakers. This is what you should do if you do not have a factory sub, you're not disconnecting from the speakers just piggy backing onto the lines. The factory wire gauge is 18 so no sense in going more than that from the speaker tap to the amp but the wires to the enclose should be 10 gauge. There are unused auxiliary fuse locations you can use in the fuse box next to your battery and use with a tap a fuse line that you can get cheap at any auto parts store to use for the remote line.
Also the factory speakers are not polarity marked and in my experience they are some times wired reversed from the factory. Use a multimeter and set to ac voltage. Play a 100 hz sine wave track, or something around 100 or 50, disconnect the connector to the speaker and use the multimeter to measure the voltage. If the meter shows negative then you are testing in reverse polarity. Swap your probes and should test positive. Tag the wires for polarity so you can tap them correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Also the factory speakers are not polarity marked and in my experience they are some times wired reversed from the factory. Use a multimeter and set to dc voltage. Disconnect the connector to the speaker and use the multimeter to measure the voltage. If the meter shows negative then you are testing in reverse polarity. Swap your probes and should test positive. Tag the wires for polarity so you can tap them correctly. Please somebody correct me if I have it wrong on using the multimeter in ac voltage. Maybe should be DC. I do know you want ac if you are testing for gain matching.
Also the factory speakers are not polarity marked and in my experience they are some times wired reversed from the factory. Use a multimeter and set to ac voltage. Play a 100 hz sine wave track, or something around 100 or 50, disconnect the connector to the speaker and use the multimeter to measure the voltage. If the meter shows negative then you are testing in reverse polarity. Swap your probes and should test positive. Tag the wires for polarity so you can tap them correctly.
Sorry, I'm mixing setting gain. Set the meter to dc voltage and just play the radio to measure voltage polarity to the speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Alright, that’s where I draw the line on not being comfortable with it.
Testing the polarity is super easy. Unfortunately Mopar is a pain in the ass on this stuff. They don't mark the polarity and some times reversed. I had 3 out of nine speakers reversed. You can search for the speaker wiring schematic but since you can't trust that its wired correctly you have to test.

As far as gauge you would be fine to follow the manual but I calculated your amps rms output at 2 ohms so 10 gauge should be fine but 8 is heavier so do that. Just don't go a higher number than 10.

I know its intimidating trying to do this stuff when you don't have the experience but when you get that sub pounding it'll all be worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Wait is there an area to run fuses in the trunk?? I thought there was only the fuse box under the hood. So I really CAN ado everything in the trunk. Minus just running the remote bass control up to the front.
Yeah, there's a fuse box back there. Awesome right? Everything your doing can be done from the trunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
So basically my best and easiest option is just tap the rear speakers directly to the amp via high output..? So I don’t need an LOC at all. And you think I should get 10 gauge for the wiring kit? The amp’s manual says 8 or lower? Also, does it matter which speaker, or do I do both?
Usually the rca inputs on the amp are low input which would be pre amp line out from a head unit. If the amp has high input also like your amp does that is usually just regular wire connections, not rca. When you tap onto speaker output wires that's high output and to hot for low input on the amp. The amps high input processes the signal back down to a lower clean signal that can be amplified. If your amp has left and right inputs tap both speakers. It should have a two channel input. It definately has two channel rca input so should be two channel for the high input.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top