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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, so I’ve been thinking of either installing the drop-in pistons and rods or going with the 426 stroker kit. I am currently running a D-1X on 7lbs of boost on my 2015 392 for about almost 3 years now and I’m loving it. Only problem is I’m restricted with the stock internals and am really looking forward to raising up the boost to say about 13-15 lbs. I know that drop-in pistons and rods could get me at around 11-12 lbs, but I’m not sure how much psi I could maximize on a 426. Keep in mind my car is a 6-speed and I know that the transmission could live for more power. If anyone has the same setup or somewhat similar please let me know the numbers. Any info would be helpful and thanks advance !
 

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Hey, so I’ve been thinking of either installing the drop-in pistons and rods or going with the 426 stroker kit. I am currently running a D-1X on 7lbs of boost on my 2015 392 for about almost 3 years now and I’m loving it. Only problem is I’m restricted with the stock internals and am really looking forward to raising up the boost to say about 13-15 lbs. I know that drop-in pistons and rods could get me at around 11-12 lbs, but I’m not sure how much psi I could maximize on a 426. Keep in mind my car is a 6-speed and I know that the transmission could live for more power. If anyone has the same setup or somewhat similar please let me know the numbers. Any info would be helpful and thanks advance !
Do the 426. The motor is out of the car, just do it once. I did drop ins and , regretted it and then did a 426. I’m at 7 psi on a p1, making 762 at the wheels.
Need to upgrade to a d1x myself


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do the 426. The motor is out of the car, just do it once. I did drop ins and , regretted it and then did a 426. I’m at 7 psi on a p1, making 762 at the wheels.
Need to upgrade to a d1x myself


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That’s exactly what I was thinking about if the motor is out might as well stroker it. I was worried about the difference in the price range is all I’m assuming it’s not that big of a difference. That’s some good numbers for just 7lbs man ! I’m on 7lbs with stock internals and it was dyno’d at 655 whp hoping to get the 750+ whp. Thanks man ! Are you raising the boost anytime soon ?
 

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Yea, I was so mad at myself for not doing what I wanted the first time. When I did the stroker I went ahead and ported the heads as well!

I hope so! Replacing the motor in my turbo mustang and building the trans/rear in my c6z at the moment.
So I’m wanting to wrap those two up before I do dig into the charger first.

You won’t regret the stroker, more power all around and I think with the d1x, your gonna be at 800-850


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea, I was so mad at myself for not doing what I wanted the first time. When I did the stroker I went ahead and ported the heads as well!

I hope so! Replacing the motor in my turbo mustang and building the trans/rear in my c6z at the moment.
So I’m wanting to wrap those two up before I do dig into the charger first.

You won’t regret the stroker, more power all around and I think with the d1x, your gonna be at 800-850


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Thanks again man ! You got me hyped up with the numbers big time hahah. Did you have to replace/upgrade the fuel system as well ? Goodluck with your other projects as well man
 

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Thank you!

Modern muscle built this one and they put in their drop in fuel pump. It was very reasonably priced.

I went with a paramount super pro as well. But as you have a 6060, your probably in good shape there!

Good luck man! Can’t wait to see how it goes!


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I'm running a 426 built by BBP @10.3:1 , ported apache heads , ported 6.1 manifold , and custom blower cam. I've been running like that NA for about a year now at around 520/520. Ran 11.40 @120. These past few weeks I've installed a d1x stage 2 8rib with a 3.7 upper and the stage 2 lower(not sure what size it is). Red race valve and race IC. Also fic1000, fore rails , and tapped performance fore upgradable 274 drop in. I'm told I'm looking at about 700wheel at best with this pump. Just waiting on the world to open to get her on the dyno. Still running on a start up tune. When I go to a full return system and add a pump I'll be able to turn it up.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm running a 426 built by BBP @10.3:1 , ported apache heads , ported 6.1 manifold , and custom blower cam. I've been running like that NA for about a year now at around 520/520. Ran 11.40 @120. These past few weeks I've installed a d1x stage 2 8rib with a 3.7 upper and the stage 2 lower(not sure what size it is). Red race valve and race IC. Also fic1000, fore rails , and tapped performance fore upgradable 274 drop in. I'm told I'm looking at about 700wheel at best with this pump. Just waiting on the world to open to get her on the dyno. Still running on a start up tune. When I go to a full return system and add a pump I'll be able to turn it up.

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That’s an impressive time for an NA 426 with a blower cam ! I believe you could put down around 730/750whp just on 7lbs of boost and way more when you raise the boost level. Did you daily drive your car with the NA 426 setup? Also, how much pounds of boost do you think you’ll be turning it up after you install the fuel pump ? Thanks for the info man !
 

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That’s an impressive time for an NA 426 with a blower cam ! I believe you could put down around 730/750whp just on 7lbs of boost and way more when you raise the boost level. Did you daily drive your car with the NA 426 setup? Also, how much pounds of boost do you think you’ll be turning it up after you install the fuel pump ? Thanks for the info man !
I daily dove for the last year or so ,but I just picked up and awd rt magnum that I use for daily now. He definitely ran strong for the lower comp and blower cam. I use true street performance with Jim and Aj. They are the very best when it comes to the hemi platforn. I can't find a reason to doubt their thoughts on fueling, but we will see. I'm running the stage 2 with a 3.70, which supposedly will net near 12psi. But I won't find out until dyno day.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I daily dove for the last year or so ,but I just picked up and awd rt magnum that I use for daily now. He definitely ran strong for the lower comp and blower cam. I use true street performance with Jim and Aj. They are the very best when it comes to the hemi platforn. I can't find a reason to doubt their thoughts on fueling, but we will see. I'm running the stage 2 with a 3.70, which supposedly will net near 12psi. But I won't find out until dyno day.

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Thanks for the all info man this helped. Much appreciated and goodluck on Dyno day hope you’ll be happy with the numbers !
 

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If it were me, I wouldn't worry so much about how much boost you're going to run over what you want your power level to be. I've seen Guys make 600+ whp on 10 psi (stock short block GM stuff, not Mopar), while another person needed more boost to get the same number. Boost is a measurement of restriction and an engine is an air pump. If you make your air pump more efficient, then you'll make your power on less boost.

Personally, I'd spend the money that you'd put towards a stroker into a good fuel system (unless your budget is unlimited, then stroke it and put a good full return fuel system in like Ronan said). How much extra power are the extra cubes going to get you for what they will cost? Like I said, if you have a good sized budget, then Please disregard this.

Also, if you're looking for more power right now, you might want to look into an E85 tune (if it's available in your area) or adding some methanol (and a retune). E85 will let you run more timing or boost just because of the principles in how it works (low cost race gas). Last but certainly not least, get the services of the best tuner that you can find because the tune is what will make or break ANY build whether it's FI or NA.

I guess my point is to not get stuck on a boost number because there are quite a few variables that could affect things.

Just my opinions though (but I've been where you are on our last car and am speaking from experience).
 

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If it were me, I wouldn't worry so much about how much boost you're going to run over what you want your power level to be. I've seen Guys make 600+ whp on 10 psi (stock short block GM stuff, not Mopar), while another person needed more boost to get the same number. Boost is a measurement of restriction and an engine is an air pump. If you make your air pump more efficient, then you'll make your power on less boost.

Personally, I'd spend the money that you'd put towards a stroker into a good fuel system (unless your budget is unlimited, then stroke it and put a good full return fuel system in like Ronan said). How much extra power are the extra cubes going to get you for what they will cost? Like I said, if you have a good sized budget, then Please disregard this.

Also, if you're looking for more power right now, you might want to look into an E85 tune (if it's available in your area) or adding some methanol (and a retune). E85 will let you run more timing or boost just because of the principles in how it works (low cost race gas). Last but certainly not least, get the services of the best tuner that you can find because the tune is what will make or break ANY build whether it's FI or NA.

I guess my point is to not get stuck on a boost number because there are quite a few variables that could affect things.

Just my opinions though (but I've been where you are on our last car and am speaking from experience).
Good point - that’s how I make 760 on 7 psi with a p1. We’re spinning the p1 aaa hard as we can without over doing it. Boost is low.... on a 426 with ported heads. On another car this may be 12-13 psi


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Good point - that’s how I make 760 on 7 psi with a p1. We’re spinning the p1 aaa hard as we can without over doing it. Boost is low.... on a 426 with ported heads. On another car this may be 12-13 psi


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Thanks. (y)

760 to the ground is Great for only 7 psi. That says quite a bit to me about your engines VE (Volumetric Efficiency).

With your setup, I'd even go to an F1A-94 blower (D1x's are pretty nice though too) and just let it relax and do it's job. You wouldn't have to change brackets either because if I'm not mistaken it'll fit on the one that you have now. You'd have room for growth too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it were me, I wouldn't worry so much about how much boost you're going to run over what you want your power level to be. I've seen Guys make 600+ whp on 10 psi (stock short block GM stuff, not Mopar), while another person needed more boost to get the same number. Boost is a measurement of restriction and an engine is an air pump. If you make your air pump more efficient, then you'll make your power on less boost.

Personally, I'd spend the money that you'd put towards a stroker into a good fuel system (unless your budget is unlimited, then stroke it and put a good full return fuel system in like Ronan said). How much extra power are the extra cubes going to get you for what they will cost? Like I said, if you have a good sized budget, then Please disregard this.

Also, if you're looking for more power right now, you might want to look into an E85 tune (if it's available in your area) or adding some methanol (and a retune). E85 will let you run more timing or boost just because of the principles in how it works (low cost race gas). Last but certainly not least, get the services of the best tuner that you can find because the tune is what will make or break ANY build whether it's FI or NA.

I guess my point is to not get stuck on a boost number because there are quite a few variables that could affect things.

Just my opinions though (but I've been where you are on our last car and am speaking from experience).
Thanks for pointing that out to me I see what you mean. The fuel system I’m currently using is the Walbro 450lph fuel pump. Yes sir E85 is available around here I also thought about tuning with the E85 flex fuel, which is easier since we don’t E85 in gas stations we purchase them in containers. However, I was thinking about the stroker kit to maintain the safety level if I decide to raise the boost up a notch because I’m assuming the pistons are one of the weakest links in the 392s. The good thing is I’m not in a real hurry so I got some time to decide until around October (close to the season here in the UAE). I agree one of the most important aspects is the tuner and I found one of the best here in the UAE around me. Unfortunately, HHP don’t do remote tuning anymore or it was my first option. Thanks for all the information Freddy it has been more than helpful much appreciated !
 

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Do the 426. The motor is out of the car, just do it once. I did drop ins and , regretted it and then did a 426. I’m at 7 psi on a p1, making 762 at the wheels.
Need to upgrade to a d1x myself


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Any specific reason you didn’t like the drop ins? I’ve been looking into this as well.
 

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Thanks for pointing that out to me I see what you mean. The fuel system I’m currently using is the Walbro 450lph fuel pump. Yes sir E85 is available around here I also thought about tuning with the E85 flex fuel, which is easier since we don’t E85 in gas stations we purchase them in containers. However, I was thinking about the stroker kit to maintain the safety level if I decide to raise the boost up a notch because I’m assuming the pistons are one of the weakest links in the 392s. The good thing is I’m not in a real hurry so I got some time to decide until around October (close to the season here in the UAE). I agree one of the most important aspects is the tuner and I found one of the best here in the UAE around me. Unfortunately, HHP don’t do remote tuning anymore or it was my first option. Thanks for all the information Freddy it has been more than helpful much appreciated !
You're Welcome. I hope that it helped. (y)

Here's a flex fuel option for our Challenger's too. It looks pretty nice, but I'd ask your tuner what he thinks about it.

AFD Flex fuel setup with sensor...........

The weak link on the pistons is the rings.If the gap is too small, then rings get hot and expand. The ends will butt up and pop the top land of the piston. That's why an FI piston will move the ring lands down a little on the piston.

If you have the ring gaps opened up along with a tune that is on the money, the drop ins will work until you want to up your boost. I'd check with your builder as far as gaps go, but I think that they usually figure either .006-.007" per inch of bore for forced induction (I believe that it's .006"/inch for turbo and N20 and .007/inch for a supercharger but I'd check with your builder to make sure because every builder has their own specs/tricks/whatever).

Honestly, no. The rod bolts were not torqued down properly, and my drop in rod/piston motor blew on the dyno.

Then I just did it all the way I wanted to in the first place

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I'm Sorry to hear that!

It doesn't sound like the parts failed though, it sounds like the builder did. You can take the best parts on the planet and not install them correctly and something bad usually happens. The nice thing is that it sounds like you've got one BEAST of a setup now though! Congratulations on that! (y)
 
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