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Discussion Starter #1
i keep hearing about the strut tower brace and was wondering if it makes a difference?

i not 100% sure what it even does...i assume it strengthens the car and prevents a bit of twist?

why doesnt the car come with them stock if it makes a difference?

is it something i could install myself? any photo's? any long term experience with it?
 

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Here's a quick summary without the physics involved...

What does a strut brace (aka stress bar or strut bar) do?
The concept of a strut bar is intended on reducing the flex between the front strut towers during hard cornering loads. By reducing this flex, it allows suspension points to remain undisturbed, allowing for the suspension to do it's job properly. This often gives the drive a feeling of increased stability and improved turning response, when in reality, the suspension is reacting as designed.


Who can benefit from a strut bar?
For those that may believe a strut bar is only for "track cars" or "racecars", it is also street driven vehicles that benefit from a properly engineered strut tower bar. Whereas anyone can appreciate the ability for a front suspension to remain constant at all times, other benefits include support of the factory strut towers from "mushrooming". These generally occurs if the vehicle hits large potholes, causing the suspension to compress completely, and then damaging the rim. However, its not only the rim that takes the hit, but the shock tower as well. Over time, if left unprotected, it can cause expensive sheet metal damage.
 

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I had one on my SRT 8 and I will probably install one on my 392 but I want to see how she handles first.
 

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IMO, that's a lot of potholes to hit.

I'm from the "camp" that thinks a "normally driven" street car doesn't need a strut bar, other than for "looks".
 

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IMO, that's a lot of potholes to hit.

I'm from the "camp" that thinks a "normally driven" street car doesn't need a strut bar, other than for "looks".
I'll agree with you on that. But he didn't specify how he plans on driving it. If he plans on just daily casual driving then they aren't really useful.

I plan on autocrossing mine when I get the chance so I may bolt one on. If I wasn't buying an IE I would probably pump in at least 2k in suspension improvements but I was to keep it easily returnable to all original.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
its a weekend driver...maybe to the track once a year

im still looking for things to spend my mopar bucks on...ill probably keep looking
 

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If by track you mean drag racing then a strut tower brace serves no purpose really. :)
 

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I love my strut tower brace I had the Mopar one and changed out to this one from Petty's Garage up front they also have a single bar that you can get color matched that requires no drilling. For me this what I was after. The strut bar by itself will give you a little stability but if you upgrade your suspension then you will get the added benefit.

Petty's Garage Front Strut Tower Brace


Petty's Garage Rear Strut Brace



i keep hearing about the strut tower brace and was wondering if it makes a difference?

i not 100% sure what it even does...i assume it strengthens the car and prevents a bit of twist?

why doesnt the car come with them stock if it makes a difference?

is it something i could install myself? any photo's? any long term experience with it?
 

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you could make a bridge from only sheets of steel too, and since the body on our cars is complete or at least mostly frameless any support for the sheet metal from bi directional lateral stress (cornering) or vertical stress from hi acceleration and hi braking stress is good. IMHO
 

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I agree that "more" bracing can't hurt, and it is a nice looking "mod".

My observations on the actual "braces".........................................look them over carefully.

IMO, they are not all created equal. The "weakest" point on many is how they actually install/bolt up to other components. The brace may be helping stiffness, but the bolts used to the factory brace is transmitting the "stress", or, it's taking all the heat.

So, I would have to look them over carefully before buying. There's a company that makes one that replaces the factory "bar" at the firewall. I can't remember the name, but it's "design" sure caught my eyes. Better engineering IMO.

I would like to have one in DY for the "look" more than anything. With my driving style, I wouldn't expect to "feel" any difference. Some folks may.

Either way, I think that they look great, but honestly, I don't think that they are a "must have" for normal street driving other than the "looks". If Chrysler thought they were needed in an SRT or the new 392, they would be on as standard.

Great thread on an interesting topic
 

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you're right, but when your driving along and nobody is around and your on one of these long sweeping entrance/exit ways and you nail her and shift couple of gears (like Mario) and she feels like a runaway locomotive, no dip or lean, you smile and wish for more :browsmiley:
 

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I love my strut tower brace I had the Mopar one and changed out to this one from Petty's Garage up front they also have a single bar that you can get color matched that requires no drilling. For me this what I was after. The strut bar by itself will give you a little stability but if you upgrade your suspension then you will get the added benefit.

Petty's Garage Front Strut Tower Brace


Petty's Garage Rear Strut Brace
Hey Jeff

What strut bar would you recommend? I got gift cards for Pettys garage for christmas and I was gonna get the one that requires no drilling, but after looking at yours it has got me leaning towards the one you have. I was also gonna get the rear shock brace. Thanks for any info.

Kevin
 

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you're right, but when your driving along and nobody is around and your on one of these long sweeping entrance/exit ways and you nail her and shift couple of gears (like Mario) and she feels like a runaway locomotive, no dip or lean, you smile and wish for more :browsmiley:
Years ago when I autocross on a monthly basis I found a really excellent article on suspension set ups. Unfortunately I have no idea what happened to that so I can't back up my statement with facts. :(

But..

Just remember when you take away the lean that puts stress on other parts of the equation such as tires and suspension. So if you're driving around with tires with weak side walls (such as almost all seasons) a lot of the load that was adsorbed by the lean will now transfer to tires which may ride up on the side walls netting you a loss in traction.

On a side note also keep in mind any tire such as a DOT street slick will be horrible for cornering. Drag racers gain traction by side walls flexing to put more of a contact patch with the pavement. Where as tires marketed for cornering and autocross have much more firmer sidewalls.

I can attest that I destroyed a pair of moderate performance Yokohama autocrossing. The edge where the sidewall met the tread was completely gone from the side wall caving in even with running 48psi while racing. This was in my Beretta GTZ that had a complete suspension upgrade.

This has nothing to do with a casual drive in each category and I'm starting to ramble. My apologies :D
 

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Years ago when I autocross on a monthly basis I found a really excellent article on suspension set ups. Unfortunately I have no idea what happened to that so I can't back up my statement with facts. :(

But..

Just remember when you take away the lean that puts stress on other parts of the equation such as tires and suspension. So if you're driving around with tires with weak side walls (such as almost all seasons) a lot of the load that was adsorbed by the lean will now transfer to tires which may ride up on the side walls netting you a loss in traction.

On a side note also keep in mind any tire such as a DOT street slick will be horrible for cornering. Drag racers gain traction by side walls flexing to put more of a contact patch with the pavement. Where as tires marketed for cornering and autocross have much more firmer sidewalls.

I can attest that I destroyed a pair of moderate performance Yokohama autocrossing. The edge where the sidewall met the tread was completely gone from the side wall caving in even with running 48psi while racing. This was in my Beretta GTZ that had a complete suspension upgrade.

This has nothing to do with a casual drive in each category and I'm starting to ramble. My apologies :D
If you find the article please post it up. The logic sounds reasonable and something most people don't take into account. Sounds like awesome reading for engineering nerds...yes I fit into that.:notallthere:
 

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Here's a good picture of where body rigidity can play a negative aspect (or lack of rigidity in another area causing twist). In an effort to rid myself of the horrible understeer the Berettas had I installed a 26mm rear sway bar (besides the internal "live" sway bar) besides other suspension modifications. In the pictures the tires gripped like they should but the load transferred to the passenger front tire to the point where the driver's rear was off the ground. Even though the tires did maintain grip everybody knows that 4 tires making contact with the ground is better than 3 tires for traction. :browsmiley:

Although you can't see the driver's side in the picture the course workers informed me the the tire left the realm of the flat blacktop. :D
 

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Great looking braces who's are they razors edge? very well said getting these cars into the corners is a lot of fun and tieing them together on the strut towers really helps

you're right, but when your driving along and nobody is around and your on one of these long sweeping entrance/exit ways and you nail her and shift couple of gears (like Mario) and she feels like a runaway locomotive, no dip or lean, you smile and wish for more :browsmiley:
 

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Kevin,
If you have the clearance go for the one like I have I noticed a difference on the front as it put the entire suspension to work also with the Petty's you can still use your caps. I was impressed with how well they color match was. And the install on the single bar takes about 15 to 20 minutes the one I have took about 45 minutes I chose it because of the false firewall and it allowed me to run led lighting on the underside. As for the rear unit the kit comes with everything you need including a template for where to cut your holes and it utilizes the strut tower bolts. I haven't driven it yet but know it's going to plant the rear in the corners. I have noticed one thing if Petty's put there name on it it's a very well thought out and high quality piece.


Hey Jeff

What strut bar would you recommend? I got gift cards for Pettys garage for christmas and I was gonna get the one that requires no drilling, but after looking at yours it has got me leaning towards the one you have. I was also gonna get the rear shock brace. Thanks for any info.

Kevin
 
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