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Stupid problem with USB ports........fixed.

102K views 51 replies 29 participants last post by  shak3r 
#1 ·
The USB ports in my console suddenly stopped working. Cycling the ignition and pulling the thumb drive with music on it out and swapping it didn't work.

I was starting to think it was a loose wiring problem ....the head unit in the dash simply wouldn't recognize either port.......everything else was working. The NAV and all other functions seemed fine.

After considering a head unit reboot I started looking at fuses in the trunk. There are two dedicated to the center console....I figured pulling 'em couldn't hurt. Both were fine though......no sign of failure. I was starting to think I was looking at a dealer repair issue just 3 months and 800 miles into ownership.......but to my surprise when I tried one more time...... the USB suddenly was recognized.

Beats me what's going on here......but puling and then putting the fuses back in seems to have fixed the problem.....some sort of reset situation.

Leaves me wondering if anyone else has faced this issue. Hopefully it's not going to be a "thing" I have to deal with.
 
#3 ·
Yeah......for me that didn't work......car sat in the garage for an hour or so before I got a chance to take a shot at fixing it. It's far from an "end of the world" issue.....but I hope I'm not dealing with it repeatedly.

Pulling the only two fuses that seem even remotely related got 'em back....but I'll be damned if I know why it worked. Possibly disconnecting them from power forced the head unit to do something in response it wasn't doing while power was still available.......but hey......I freely admit......I'm only guessing and grasping for explanations.
 
#4 ·
Several times on Windows forums I have had luck with having people disconnect power, hold down power button for 10 seconds, and let PC sit for 1/2 hour to let all caps discharge. Once they power back up, USBs are working again. Obviously not always a fix, but I'd say a handful of times for sure. It does seem to point towards there not being an intermittent connection as there would be no physical change unless the PC was very hot, and there was expansion/contraction (unlikely as issue would likely return at some point). A Guy
 
#6 · (Edited)
I've got ours going into the shop tomorrow for the exact same thing that's happening to you folks. I get so nervous when I have to bring her to the dealer for Anything and tomorrow is not different. I just hope that they can fix it because I like using the usb drive in the media center.

By any chance, do you remember the fuse numbers in the trunk that you pulled? I know that one is #38, but didn't know that there were two.


Thanks in advance. :cheers:
 
#7 ·
One is #38 but there is a second that is listed in the manual......#12 was the other. The manual doesn't say which one is the actual power here......both listed as powering the "center console". #12 lists the "dual USB" and while #38 doesn't mention the USB specifically it does list "power out let/ console media hub"..........sounds like #12 would get it done but pulling #38 too seems like the only way to be sure you're depriving it of power most completely.

I'm more than a little bit bothered that it sounds like Dodge should know there is a widespread problem here and yet no one mentions a more permanent "fix". While nothing here is terribly important or difficult to do it's still not at all reasonable to expect owners to have to do this.
 
#8 ·
Happened to mine with ~1000 miles on it. Dealer replaced the usb ports and it has worked ever since.
 
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#9 ·
I've only had my car since early April.....so I'm still at less than 1,000 miles.......(it's not my only summer driver)..... but my questions for you comes down to just two of them.

1. What did the dealer say had happened to them such that replacing them should be expected to be a permanent "fix"?

2. How long ago was the repair performed? (this would give me some hope for the idea you indeed have an actual permanent fix if it's been long enough to say you're past it for sure)
 
#15 ·
I have a Plum Crazy 2016 SXT Plus and I've had issues with the USB port and SD card slot since the first week I had the car. I brought it to Service 2 weeks ago and they have no clue but they were able to put over 100 miles on my car, use a 1/4 tank of gas and park it, so my passenger door got hit by someone opening their door !@#$%!

Another issue I'm having is the USB music will stop and then the radio is faintly heard but you can't change the volume. After a couple minutes the USB music starts playing again.

I've noticed the issue seems to happen when it's really hot or cold outside. When it's under 40 degrees my windows won't go down either, so I can't open the doors because the window is stuck under the weather strip and if I do manage to open the door, then I can't close it.
 
#20 ·
Hello GotMetalBoy,

We're sorry to hear you're having a hard time with your USB port. If you're thinking you'd like to have this looked at by the dealer, let us know. We're available via direct message and can help with this process.

Jasmine
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 
#16 ·
Ill throw my findings in here

I mainly use my USB for charging, why?

Dodge cheaped out on the usb input and the little sob heats up once it starts shooting data over. Charging doesn’t cause this as bad from my experience. What did i do?

I put all my music on the SD CARD slot. It still has some playback issues but i think it comes back down to the hardware quality rather than any type of glitch.
 
#17 ·
Ill throw my findings in here

I mainly use my USB for charging, why?

Dodge cheaped out on the usb input and the little sob heats up once it starts shooting data over. Charging doesn’t cause this as bad from my experience. What did i do?

I put all my music on the SD CARD slot. It still has some playback issues but i think it comes back down to the hardware quality rather than any type of glitch.
Dodge wants the cheapest price for every component of the car, their suppliers choose the parts not Dodge. And I will say, if this USB is $0.25 and another USB is $0.60 they will use the cheaper one, and it wont make a difference because the components must all pass the same tests put forth by FCA before they are able to be put into a production vehicle. The issue you describe does sound 100% like a software issue though.
 
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#19 ·
It's business, that's all.


If you save .35 on each part and order 100,000 of them, it adds up, especially if you do that for multiple parts. I can't blame them, I'd do the same thing if it were my business unless the part was known to fail, then it would cost more in warranty/shop labor to fix it.
 
#25 ·
I brought my 2017 Scat Pack Challenger in for a rocker and door panel replacement. I was listening to music on my USB drive on the way. Well going home nothing worked in the usb ports. Android Auto, Music, Charging phone all no good. Reading the posting I removed fuse #12 and #38 in the trunk fuse box. Verified the fuses were good with a DVM. After waiting 10 minutes reinstalled the fuses and all working. Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!
 
#30 ·
I have the same problem with my 2016 scat pack. The USB in the console was intermittent, but I didn't really care as there are other charging ports. Lately my navigation stopped picking up satellites. A little research and I found my uconnect software was out of date which may be causing the problem.
To do this particular update, it MUST be done through the USB port. So after trying the fuse trick several times it was off to the dealer. They said it was a bad media hub, so I ordered one. They wanted another $250 to install it, so I just did it myself today.
Guess what? It's still is dead. I tested the power wire (red/ lt blue) and grounds to the connector at the hub and everything is fine, but it doesn't recognize or power my phone. Next I'm going to purchase a USB tester (only $20 on Amazon) and see what that shows.
It's frustrating as I may have a bad part, but have a suspicion it may be something else.
 
#31 · (Edited)
I have the same problem with my 2016 scat pack. The USB in the console was intermittent, but I didn't really care as there are other charging ports. Lately my navigation stopped picking up satellites. A little research and I found my uconnect software was out of date which may be causing the problem.
To do this particular update, it MUST be done through the USB port. So after trying the fuse trick several times it was off to the dealer. They said it was a bad media hub, so I ordered one. They wanted another $250 to install it, so I just did it myself today.
Guess what? It's still is dead. I tested the power wire (red/ lt blue) and grounds to the connector at the hub and everything is fine, but it doesn't recognize or power my phone. Next I'm going to purchase a USB tester (only $20 on Amazon) and see what that shows.auto clicker
It's frustrating as I may have a bad part, but have a suspicion it may be something else.
I've noticed the issue seems to happen when it's really hot or cold outside. When it's under 40 degrees my windows won't go down either, so I can't open the doors because the window is stuck under the weather strip and if I do manage to open the door, then I can't close it.
 
#32 ·
The USB ports in my console suddenly stopped working. Cycling the ignition and pulling the thumb drive with music on it out and swapping it didn't work.

I was starting to think it was a loose wiring problem ....the head unit in the dash simply wouldn't recognize either port.......everything else was working. The NAV and all other functions seemed fine.

After considering a head unit reboot I started looking at fuses in the trunk. There are two dedicated to the center console....I figured pulling 'em couldn't hurt. Both were fine though......no sign of failure. I was starting to think I was looking at a dealer repair issue just 3 months and 800 miles into ownership.......but to my surprise when I tried one more time...... the USB suddenly was recognized.

Beats me what's going on here......but puling and then putting the fuses back in seems to have fixed the problem.....some sort of reset situation.

Leaves me wondering if anyone else has faced this issue. Hopefully it's not going to be a "thing" I have to deal with.
Not sure if this will work for you. But pull fuse 37 & 38 then start car. This should reset the radio. Shut car off and replace the fuses and start car again. Radio reboots and seems to fix the issue for me. Takes about 5 minutes and works for me.
 
#40 ·
Since there are reports of the usb port heating up should add not to use cables longer than 3ft. Longer cables take more power to push through since the cables copper lines cause some resistance per foot. So longer cables generate more heat at the source.

Im having same issues with a Pacifica mini van, Ive seen two seems to be reliable fixes, Reset the radio by pulling fuses and start car, turn off and replace fuses. Second is replacing the USB port hub. For 20$ thats not a bad fix. Just dont want the issue to return. Im going to replace my hub and pop it open and see if i can see anything obvious and maybe test components if i can.
 
#36 ·
Very important to me to use the USB drive for my music listening.
I own a 2017 Ford Escape that has never had a problem with USB hub. I use a Samsung SSD 1T external hard drive.
I rip my music FLAC, either 16/44.1 or 24/96 and 24/192. All stereo. Plays great in the Escape.
Now, yesterday with my new 2021 Challenger RT Shaker, 5 days old, I plugged in my external hard drive into both USB 1 and USB 2 and got errors on screen. That was deflating to say the least, should be the simplest thing in the world, certainly more simple than actually driving the car.
I guess I will try the fuse removal, some say post #7 (pull fuse #12 & 38), the other post #32 (pull fuse 37 & 38). Seems success is more with pulling 12 & 38.
Hopefully I won't have to bring to dealer. Freaks me out to read all the other stories with window problems, etc.

Exploring the fuse pull and replace option.
For my 2021 it is the rear fuse box in trunk.
From the manual:
F12 – 20 Amp Yellow Dual USB Center Console Rear/ Cigar Lighter/ IP APO – If Equipped
F38 – 20 Amp Yellow Media Hub/ Console APO
 
#37 ·
The USB ports in my console suddenly stopped working. Cycling the ignition and pulling the thumb drive with music on it out and swapping it didn't work.

I was starting to think it was a loose wiring problem ....the head unit in the dash simply wouldn't recognize either port.......everything else was working. The NAV and all other functions seemed fine.

After considering a head unit reboot I started looking at fuses in the trunk. There are two dedicated to the center console....I figured pulling 'em couldn't hurt. Both were fine though......no sign of failure. I was starting to think I was looking at a dealer repair issue just 3 months and 800 miles into ownership.......but to my surprise when I tried one more time...... the USB suddenly was recognized.

Beats me what's going on here......but puling and then putting the fuses back in seems to have fixed the problem.....some sort of reset situation.

Leaves me wondering if anyone else has faced this issue. Hopefully it's not going to be a "thing" I have to deal with.
Hi, yes my 2020 dodge challenger brand new off the lot USB stopped connecting on me. I'm about 15k in driving over the year. Going to see if the fuse troubleshoot works for me :).
 
#39 ·
My USB port intermittently does not charge my devices and therefore also doesn't allow for Apple CarPlay. I'm thinking of bringing my car into the dealership tomorrow for it to be replaced. From the sounds of reading the thread it isn't software but hardware related as if it was software it would either work or not work not have an intermittent issue.

So wonder if Dodge will replace the whole USB hub to fix this under warranty
 
#41 ·
I took my car to the service department at a Dodge dealership. They said they couldn't find any issues with the USB port no chaffing. Not sure what to do? If I'm getting intermittent issues with the USB ports not charging shouldn't they replace the USB hub or something I don't think it was too expensive and should be covered under warranty anyways. What would fix the USB port charging issue? Basically it won't charge or activate CarPlay sometimes no matter what I do. It only works again from what it seems after I finish driving turn off the car and start the car again.

I want to fix the issue before my warranty ends and I also don't want to pay a deductible again for the problem I brought up earlier but was not fixed. Should I call my extended warranty (MVP) and ask for their advice?
 
#42 ·
Think I mentioned this earlier in this thread but are you using an actual Apple data cable? Aftermarket cables often result in intermittent performance. Also make sure your phone is up to date w/the latest SW.
 
#43 ·
I have an official iPhone cable but also the amazon basic that have the Apple certification so it’s supported that I’ve used in the past. I won’t ever use cheap gas station or unsupported cables. I don’t remember if my other devices failed to charge like my AirPod case. If it doesn’t charge also intermittently then it may not be an iPhone software issue. I’m hoping maybe if there are records that i brought the car in for the issue if the issue comes up again shortly after my extended warranty ends It will still be covered and I don’t have to pay the $100 deductible again. I was just thinking wouldn’t just swapping a part for something new just solve the issue?
 
#44 ·
I don't think wanting a new USB hub is an unreasonable ask given the situation, but just so I'm understanding you correctly, the problem is with an Iphone/CarPlay not working correct? I ask because Airpods are not supported devices for the USB hub and may/may not charge (I've never tried). So if you've got an iphone/CarPlay issue then the best advice I can give you is to try to make your setup (phone & cable) avail to the tech so that they can try to duplicate the issue, which they're required to do before replacing any part.

If not, they're going to use a different phone & cable for testing which will result in a good connection unless the USB hub is completely dead, i.e., not exactly an apples to apples comparison (no pun intended). If you can demonstrate the issue to a service advisor that can go a long way as well.
 
#46 ·
I don't think wanting a new USB hub is an unreasonable ask given the situation, but just so I'm understanding you correctly, the problem is with an Iphone/CarPlay not working correct? I ask because Airpods are not supported devices for the USB hub and may/may not charge (I've never tried). So if you've got an iphone/CarPlay issue then the best advice I can give you is to try to make your setup (phone & cable) avail to the tech so that they can try to duplicate the issue, which they're required to do before replacing any part.

If not, they're going to use a different phone & cable for testing which will result in a good connection unless the USB hub is completely dead, i.e., not exactly an apples to apples comparison (no pun intended). If you can demonstrate the issue to a service advisor that can go a long way as well.
since it happens intermittently randomly it’a hard to replicate the issue on the spot. The USB hub allows for apple car play and android auto, also for usb flash drives for songs , and it can charge other devices.

what I was meaning to express was that if the AirPods or any other device besides the iPhone isn’t charging then it’s a power issue. If it charges and the iPhone doesn’t then it could possibly be an iPhone software issue.

I was hoping the dealer would work with me and just swap the usb unit but it seems they couldn’t recreate the problem with their devices, cables so I’m not sure if I should call MVP (warranty) to explain the situation?

See my post #36.
The USB port was the first and only problem I have had with my 2021. I did the whole pull and place fuse thing and that was a waste of time.
Took it to the dealer, they swapped the port unit with new and good ever since, it was at dealers one day and they told me Dodge has frequent problems with those so I guess they got a bucket of them ready for the next customer.
I think maybe it's easier to do warranty work while it is still under the 3 year 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. They seemed to have helped you replace the USB port without needing you to recreate the problem on the spot. I'm currently on the extended warranty and it seems they won't just swap it unless they can recreate or seen signs of issues. They can't just take my word it seems as maybe the process is different as they need to get approval maybe for compensation for their services and maybe it's harder to do so with the Mopar maximum care warranty?

So I was told I could film the issue occurring if it happens again and that should be sufficient evidence which they could e-mail as a claim to get approval. I won't have to pay the deductible if the problem reoccur around 60 days. Hopefully I'm able to document it for the swap.

I guess for future reference for people having this issue to record and document it and it might help your case. I'm not sure if another dealership would have just swapped it or if the issue for me is that it's past the 3 years 36,000 mile warranty and it's harder for dealerships to just swap it
 
#45 ·
See my post #36.
The USB port was the first and only problem I have had with my 2021. I did the whole pull and place fuse thing and that was a waste of time.
Took it to the dealer, they swapped the port unit with new and good ever since, it was at dealers one day and they told me Dodge has frequent problems with those so I guess they got a bucket of them ready for the next customer.
 
#47 ·
We have an '18 and '21 RAM and a '19 Challenger. On all vehicles sometimes the USB doesn't work and I don't even want to talk about the utterly worthless Homelink system that's about 50%. Usually but not always the USB ports charge but they'll freak out on Android Auto/Carplay and just go away for anywhere from a few minutes to the next day.

The dealer always says everything works perfectly. Homelink is so bad on all three we carry both gate and garage openers in all three vehicles. One would think if Toyota could get Homelink right on the 20 year old 4Runner we had why can't RAM/Dodge get it right today?

I have a '22 Scat Pack coming if the Canadian truckers don't screw it up. I'll assume it will be exactly the same. On the plus side all three have otherwise been nearly flawless with everything else. :)
 
#48 ·
I'm trying to record when the USB doesn't work that way I could send in the video for a warranty claim. Basically was told that's what I could do. I'd have to leave a spare phone in my car otherwise I can't film my phone my charging with the USB ports
 
#49 ·
i just removed and reinstalled couple of fuses in the fuse box located in the trunk.
My situtaion was it stopped working for more than 2 days. Its used work on itsown but 2 days was a lot of wait time. i went through the list of fuses in the fusebox cover, I removed and reinstalled maybe 3 fuses, which ever it states usb/cigar.
 
#50 ·
i just removed and reinstalled couple of fuses in the fuse box located in the trunk.
My situtaion was it stopped working for more than 2 days. Its used work on itsown but 2 days was a lot of wait time. i went through the list of fuses in the fusebox cover, I removed and reinstalled maybe 3 fuses, which ever it states usb/cigar.
Did that solve the issue? My USB issues fixes itself after a few days on its own. If it's a fuse issue would it not fix itself after a few days? I'm not familiar with fuses except a little bit from home where if a fuse pops you have to manually flip the switch back. In my car it resolves itself. I think it usually occurs when I leave my dash cam on overnight. It's powered by an external battery that gets recharged by the car battery when the car is running
 
#52 ·
I've been chasing a parasitic battery drain issue. Today I found the F38 fuse consumes 40mA after car is turned off; waited at least 20mins for everything to go to sleep. Nothing is plugged into the USB/cigar ports in the media hub. Sounds like the dual USB ports are suspect based on these comments, eh? If I leave F38 out I see 50mA total after 10mins; otherwise its 90mA and may be what is killing my battery.
 
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