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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I’m planning on buying a supercharger for my challenger. I’m not the most educated (at all really ) on thes topics. I know that I want a whipple; kenne bell, or a Maggie. I’m only 19 so the price of the maggie is pulling me in . But would it be worth it to save for the whipple? I’m only going to run 7 psi and I’d like to be at least as fast as an srt. This is also my daily so I’m very worried about blowing my engine. I run it pretty hard. No hard launches or anything. I’ve heard the tuning is most important but I don’t know where to go. I have a diablo currently and can I get another email tune or actually be on a dyno. Any help is appreciated
 

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Hey everyone, I’m planning on buying a supercharger for my challenger. I’m not the most educated (at all really ) on thes topics. I know that I want a whipple; kenne bell, or a Maggie. I’m only 19 so the price of the maggie is pulling me in . But would it be worth it to save for the whipple? I’m only going to run 7 psi and I’d like to be at least as fast as an srt. This is also my daily so I’m very worried about blowing my engine. I run it pretty hard. No hard launches or anything. I’ve heard the tuning is most important but I don’t know where to go. I have a diablo currently and can I get another email tune or actually be on a dyno. Any help is appreciated
you can easily run 8 psi with a fuel system,the Magnuson will offer the best reliability and durability of the 3, at 8 psi will make approx 450whps which is about 25/30 whps more then the 392

you can also do the 6 psi kit with tunign from Magnuson, $6195.00 which includes everything you need, including their tuning, if your brave enough to install and or capable of it
 

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FWIW I have a maggie 8psi system (so do a bunch of guys on the forum) for 2 years now and no issues whatsoever. I chose the maggie because it seems to be the most well behaved and reliable set-up. As long as the tune has conservative fueling/timing and you run quality high octane fuel (if you can swing 93 all the better). The hardware with the maggie kit looks like it came from a napa closeout parts bin but it does the job. It is also very quiet and does not produce the high pitch whine (slight whine at initial acceleration) as the compress type PDs (whipple, K&B). You can get more power out of the whipple and K&B but they to tend to cost +$1k more than the maggie.
 

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FWIW I have a maggie 8psi system (so do a bunch of guys on the forum) for 2 years now and no issues whatsoever. I chose the maggie because it seems to be the most well behaved and reliable set-up. As long as the tune has conservative fueling/timing and you run quality high octane fuel (if you can swing 93 all the better). The hardware with the maggie kit looks like it came from a napa closeout parts bin but it does the job. It is also very quiet and does not produce the high pitch whine (slight whine at initial acceleration) as the compress type PDs (whipple, K&B). You can get more power out of the whipple and K&B but they to tend to cost +$1k more than the maggie.
Did you happen to look at Edlebrock?

I don't see anyone going that that route and is seems like a nice setup.
 

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Did you happen to look at Edlebrock?

I don't see anyone going that that route and is seems like a nice setup.
Actually nothing wrong with the edelbrock set-up. The blower design is based off Eaton TVS just like Magnuson. The kit seems to be more polished than the maggie but I have only seen them come as a 6lb kit, probably because going to 8lb usually requires a higher flow/pressure fuel pump. The plus about the edlebrock kit is it uses a 2 belt set-up.
 

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I was VERY tempted to put the E-Force on my 2015 Charger R/T R&T. Wife did not approve, but she approved of a 2018 Scat Pack Challenger, so win-win.
Anyway, I felt the E-Force was the closest to factory looking and setup. I even had a license plate picked out for the project "HECK CAT" not quite Hell...
 

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I went with the 6lb Maggie on my 392 and it's been great. I did the install myself and I will say it's not
a "fitted" kit like the Eforce. With the Maggie kits you get generic bend hoses you have to cut here cut
there and adapt but they do work. The Intercooler could be a lot bigger as could the res which would
help IAT's a bit. These are minor nit picks. I've run my 6lb Maggie for a few seasons so far and approx
15-20k miles. I did have some initial belt issues, my tensioner was shot. I upgraded to a Thump tensioner
and a Napa Green HD Fleet Belt, best mods ever.

I really like the looks of the install.





 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the quick responses!! However my car has 75 k miles , by the time I do get it it’ll have 85 k to 90 k. I plan on forging one year or sooner from when I buy it. However, I’ve heard the forged engines only last 20 k miles. Is that true? Seems crazy to spend that money for 2 years of driveling( for me anyways). I’ll need the the upgraded fuel system correct? Probably going to go 6 psi till forged. Then we’ll see from there. Would it be worth it to go to a dyno shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I went with the 6lb Maggie on my 392 and it's been great. I did the install myself and I will say it's not
a "fitted" kit like the Eforce. With the Maggie kits you get generic bend hoses you have to cut here cut
there and adapt but they do work. The Intercooler could be a lot bigger as could the res which would
help IAT's a bit. These are minor nit picks. I've run my 6lb Maggie for a few seasons so far and approx
15-20k miles. I did have some initial belt issues, my tensioner was shot. I upgraded to a Thump tensioner
and a Napa Green HD Fleet Belt, best mods ever.

I really like the looks of the install.





Looks great !!my dad has the same color but he has an rt. His car started my obsession..... hows the 392? I wanted one but I can’t afford the insurance for one so maybe later.
 

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Thanks for the quick responses!! However my car has 75 k miles , by the time I do get it it’ll have 85 k to 90 k. I plan on forging one year or sooner from when I buy it. However, I’ve heard the forged engines only last 20 k miles. Is that true? Seems crazy to spend that money for 2 years of driveling( for me anyways). I’ll need the the upgraded fuel system correct? Probably going to go 6 psi till forged. Then we’ll see from there. Would it be worth it to go to a dyno shop?

Yeah not sure where that 20k figure is coming from but that's absolutely not true!
if you go 6psi to start, you will need to do the fuel system upgrades later when you
step up the boost. If you can find a reputable shop that can do CMR tuning then yes a
custom tune will yield the most power. The canned tunes that tend to come with these
systems are very conservative aka safe.



 

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Looks great !!my dad has the same color but he has an rt. His car started my obsession..... hows the 392? I wanted one but I can’t afford the insurance for one so maybe later.
Your dad has great taste in color! :) 392 is still going strong she's got about 65k on the odometer 15-20K of
that has been with the maggie.



 

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Discussion Starter #12
FWIW I have a maggie 8psi system (so do a bunch of guys on the forum) for 2 years now and no issues whatsoever. I chose the maggie because it seems to be the most well behaved and reliable set-up. As long as the tune has conservative fueling/timing and you run quality high octane fuel (if you can swing 93 all the better). The hardware with the maggie kit looks like it came from a napa closeout parts bin but it does the job. It is also very quiet and does not produce the high pitch whine (slight whine at initial acceleration) as the compress type PDs (whipple, K&B). You can get more power out of the whipple and K&B but they to tend to cost +$1k more than the maggie.
That’s a bummer I wanted a loud whine ... but it’s all good. I do have access to 93 but would you recommend doing a custom tune? That’s what I’m so concerned about bc everyone says it’s the most important part. Or would the magnuson tune be good? Sorry for all the questions everyone I just want to make sure I’m doing this right and I’m also new to this
 

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That’s a bummer I wanted a loud whine ... but it’s all good. I do have access to 93 but would you recommend doing a custom tune? That’s what I’m so concerned about bc everyone says it’s the most important part. Or would the magnuson tune be good? Sorry for all the questions everyone I just want to make sure I’m doing this right and I’m also new to this
The tune magnuson gives is a base tune but you will get better results with a custom. I bought my system from Arrington (before it was sold and moved to MI) and they did custom tuning via email.
 

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The tune magnuson gives is a base tune but you will get better results with a custom. I bought my system from Arrington (before it was sold and moved to MI) and they did custom tuning via email.
ChallyTatum were you able to update the Arrington tune with your HP tuner? I guess I should ask if you tried or needed to first?
 

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ChallyTatum were you able to update the Arrington tune with your HP tuner? I guess I should ask if you tried or needed to first?
They emailed my custom tune file to me and it was loaded onto my Trinity and then downloaded into the ECU.



Not sure about Tatum but that's how it worked for me.



 

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Yeah not sure where that 20k figure is coming from but that's absolutely not true!
if you go 6psi to start, you will need to do the fuel system upgrades later when you
step up the boost. If you can find a reputable shop that can do CMR tuning then yes a
custom tune will yield the most power. The canned tunes that tend to come with these
systems are very conservative aka safe.



agreed, Bigred ran 9 psi on a 5.7 for 40k miles plus, have many customer with excess of that
 

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They emailed my custom tune file to me and it was loaded onto my Trinity and then downloaded into the ECU.



Not sure about Tatum but that's how it worked for me.



Thanks for the feedback.

What I'm wondering is if ChallyTatum could access the tune himself through HPtuners to make any further tweaks if he wanted to.
 

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agreed, Bigred ran 9 psi on a 5.7 for 40k miles plus, have many customer with excess of that
Did you dyno that?

I've been told the 5.7's fail after 500hp at the flywheel. However I have now heard of people running over 500HP & TQ to the wheels and having no issues... I drive hard so I would probably use all of it quite a bit of the time. It could be these people are running it but don't really using it!? If I could push my 5.7 for a little longer under some boost I may want to do that for a bit before I move to the 6.4. just over 30k on it I wouldn't mind getting a couple more miles out of it before I swap and running a little over 500 to the wheels may pacify me for a little while. Then I could install the SC on my 6.4.
 

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ChallyTatum were you able to update the Arrington tune with your HP tuner? I guess I should ask if you tried or needed to first?
So as Toxic mentioned, Arrington sent me tunes via diablo sport. Although at that time I think they were using a 3rd party tuner (the tale I heard it was Petty's Garage :dunno: ). Shortly after they dialed in my tune the business was sold off and a couple of months later I installed headers (with high flow cats) which prompted me to update my tune. Since the trinity has very limited tuning capabilities I switched over to HP tuners and all I did was load the tunes with the trinity which I then read with HP tuners and then finally loaded with HP. Using my wideband and fuel gauge I was able to make the adjustments to PT and PE fueling that were needed.

Looking at the final tune from Arringtion in HP there were several things I did not like...for starters they deactivated my rear O2s and disabled a bunch of DTCs which prevented me from getting all the emissions monitors to pass. After trial and error I found the rear O2s didn't impact fueling (provided COT was raised) and I managed to enable all DTC monitoring without any issues. In fact, I was finally able to get my emissions monitors to all pass which is why I stopped messing with the tune as the car is due for emissions in October. Once I get the HC cam installed I plan on getting it finally tuned on a dyno but that will all happen after the emissions test.
 

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Did you dyno that?

I've been told the 5.7's fail after 500hp at the flywheel. However I have now heard of people running over 500HP & TQ to the wheels and having no issues... I drive hard so I would probably use all of it quite a bit of the time. It could be these people are running it but don't really using it!? If I could push my 5.7 for a little longer under some boost I may want to do that for a bit before I move to the 6.4. just over 30k on it I wouldn't mind getting a couple more miles out of it before I swap and running a little over 500 to the wheels may pacify me for a little while. Then I could install the SC on my 6.4.
many times, several different configuration......>:)

5.7L will live very well on 8 psi of boost, especially with a Magnuson which is no where near as violent as a KB or Whipple

6.4 maximum of 7 psi and must be tuned very very well, with good fuel......

we supercharged a very large number of 5.7 running 500 whps, 510 ft/lbs, 8 psi, Magnuson 2300, stage one fuel pump system, Kooks long tubes and green catted high flow, add a cam and your just shy of 550 whps

the tuning on 6.4 is critical, extremely critical....

Luke
 
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