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A Guy
 

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A Guy
Saw that but was looking for the 500HP one...or is it being extrapolated from those charts?

12.7s 1/4 mile with say a 4200lb gross weight puts HP at ~400RWHP.

 

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I ass-u-me from those charts

A Guy
 
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this has been beaten to death, the 6.4 and 5.7 was not designed for boost so trying to hold the manufacturer responsible for engine failures with boost is ridiculous.......

if you do not want you warranty repair denied, DO NOT MODIFY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the 5.7 is significantly more robust then the 6.4 and will live well with 8 psi of boost

real facts

5.7L 2011 and newer will do very well on 8 psi with good fuel system and tuning,
with good long tubes, not all headers or mids are created equal, if your going thru the expense of adding long tube headers, do good ones, Kooks!!!!
with 8 psi. Kooks long tubes and green catted high flow cats 500whps and 500+ ft/lbs

we have done this repeatedly

6.4L 2011 and newer will live on 6 psi, but requires good tuning, with great tuning and good fuel system, 7 psi which will deliver approx 550whps, with good long tubes and 7 psi approx 580/590whps

anything above that it will go boom

I would bet I can count the number of good Hemi tuners on one hand.......the pcm and software in the FCA vehicles is very very different then GM or Ford,

because the local tune shop does well with those does not mean they can tune a Mopar, and in many case will blow them up

at least once a week someone will reach out to us with a failure, and lately we have fixed a number of them.....few weeks ago a person reached out to us from SC, the tune shop blew up their engine on the dyno, 2019 R/T 5.7

it was all I could do not to laugh when they were telling me that they were assure they could run 10.5 lbs of boost on a completely stock 5.7, to make it worst the shop blame the engine having a prior issue and was recommending he seek help from Dodge, less then a few k's miles on the car

few days ago a prior customer with na engine with cam and headers who had a well known tuner tune his vehicle told me about his broken engine, the remote tuning was inadequate and he suffered multiple piston failures, extreme lean issue and knock, tuner refuse any responsibility

if an engine suffers a failure a year from now, the chance the tuner did a poor tune is unlikely, but when it fails within a few weeks or worst on the dyno, unlikely it was a mechanical failure

the moment you begin to modify and change the horsepower level of any engines or vehicles, longevity will be affected, if the mods are done well, with good parts and professional install and tuning, the risk will be low

I tell customers all the time, you dont have to have a blower to break stuff, the person between the seat and steering wheel can affect the outcome dramatically ( been politically correct here, many idiots behind the wheels )

Luke
What’s your experience on the 6.1s?


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When looking at dyno pulls here is something to be aware of. Almost every dyno except for the super expensive ones are speed limited because of the tremendous forces on the roller drums at speeds over 150MPH. This is why most dyno pulls stop at around 6200-6300 RPMs. Mine pulls hard all up to the 7000 RPM red-line this is why I feel that I am safe extrapolating the results.

Also, those HP vs Time calculators give you an average or constant HP (not peak HP) result when a weight and time are plugged in and assumes conditions are perfect with no tire slippage.
 
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Lot of good info here but...

Can these 30 minute old new members stop bumping 10 year old threads lol


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maybe all you 'old farts' been on here since day one & know how/where/whom/which thread to ask a legitimate question...but some of us 'newbies' don't. So how about a little patience...and oh gee some help? & i'm damn sure i'm replying to another OLD thread, but i just read it trying to learn something...Gotta problem with that too? NOT the 1st time i've seen this attitude here either!
 
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