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Discussion Starter #1
Alright suspension experts, I'd like to know what I can do to tighten up my suspension for performance driving without sacrificing the ride quality when I go cruising. Currently I have an RT with the 27F package, which means I have the Track Pak, but not the Super Track Pak (STP).

Truthfully until this weekend, I was very happy with the RT suspension. Then at higher speeds, I was noticing how it "floated" and I was getting lots of movement from small divets in the road.

A few specific questions, which I am sure will grow as we discuss here:

1. Is the STP components worth considering at all? Costs? Does it lower the car any?

2. I've seen lots of RT guys snatch up SRT suspension. From my limited reading, I would need the springs & shocks (as my shocks are self-leveling, right?) and I believe it lowers the RT stance about 1.5", right? Is this a raked drop or level drop?

3. What about strut tower braces? And the brace in the trunk (don't know technical name)? Also I read about one that attaches to the underside near the tranny?

4. Lastly I've heard lots of great things about Eibach. The fear here is losing a "factory ride". Again, does it lower? Is it better than the SRT? Costs? And anything else people with experience can share?

5. What's install time for all this? Anything special to know? Years ago, I lifted my Jeep and replaced shocks/springs in the process. Wasn't too bad. Took a few hours.

6. What's the best? Which setup offers the most bang for the buck?

7. I'm not opposed to picking up used to save a few bucks. Any things I need to look for to ensure I'm not getting a worn out suspension? I suspect weak springs, leaking shocks, etc.

8. Do the part numbers change for a 6-speed setup?

Lots of questions. But I know the family here will help guide me. Thanks.
 

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i shouldnt comment on this,but i installed the srt shocks and springs on my rt but havent driven it yet because of all of the snow.it only dropped about 3/4 of an inch so far.the install was pretty easy with the exception of the rear lower control bolts,but i got it back together.
 

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I went from standard R/T with 18-inch wheels to 20-inch wheels, then to Eibach Pro springs/shocks then to SRT8 springs/shocks, then to SRT8 springs with standard R/T shocks (current setup). Ride was about the same going from Eibach to SRT8 setup. Handling was best with Eibach setup; it lowered the car almost exactly 2 inches compared to standard R/T setup. SRT8 springs/shocks was about half that. Going from 18-inch wheels/tires to 20-inch wheels/tires made the most difference in ride quality. If you already have 20s, the difference in ride quality of the three setups is, IMHO, negligible. While the Eibach setup looked and drove great, I felt the car set a bit too low for the roads I drive on; SRT8 setup is a nice compromise between standard R/T and Eibach.
 

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What are your plans for the car? Daily driver? Track day car, drag racing or road racing? Best bang for your buck will be the SRT setup for daily driving and track days. If your car will see many road race track days I would recommend a coilover setup. Call stack performance for your sway bars, strut bars and trunk bar, topnotch products that work. I think you also mentioned a brace for the transmission. (drive shaft loop?) If you have a six speed car contact arrington, they have a great drive shaft loop. Hope that helps:thumbsup:
 

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Like lowwlife said, talk to Ryan over at Stack along with any of the Vendors here can all get you set up. I have every suspension component on my car with the exception of the tranny cross member. Looks like your best bet will be the srt shocks n springs and I would recommened the front and rear sway bars, like the chubby's by stack. These cars benefit huge from the sways more then any suspension upgrade you can do. I have a coilover set up, lowered very low, and have the coilovers adjusted to a stiffer set up, front and rear sways and front engine strut bar and rear trunk strut bars and end links on sways. The car is indeed tight, no flex at all, and handles 100 times better then when my car was stock, I did all these steps one at a time, just to see what they all do, and they all make a big difference, BUT the one that did the biggest change were the chubby sways I installed, this literally got rid of a ton of body roll. So best bang for the buck is do the srt set up so you dont lose ride quality, and get the sways, you will not regret it. Then go back out and have fun going into those curves.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good point about the wheels & tires. I am also running the 18's with 3.73 gears and stock Michelin tires. Have considered upgrading at some point but undecided to what style or size. I'm fine with the 18" wheel size, but it isn't my favorite style. Thought about the 20" SRT wheels but will wait for the right deal. I do prefer a factory wheel since they are typically lighter than aftermarket wheels.

And thanks to everyone else that has chimed in. My car is a 98% daily driver with limited exposure to both road course & the drag strip. So keeping it "cush" while giving improved handling characteristics is the goal. The additional 1" drop worries me a bit with the Eibach setup and I don't think my use would justify a coilover conversion. Sounds like the SRT springs/shocks and chubby sways is where I will want to go with this. Getting the other braces/struts will be the icing on the cake.

Later, if I get the luxury to turn this into a track car I will consider a full setup.
 

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I have the Eibach 2895.780 kit. It drops the car 1.7 inches. The car rides really smooth, and steady at high speed. At least up to 105, the fastest I've had it up to so far. Price is $760. I installed it myself, took 2.5 hours to do front and rear. But I did have the luxury of a hydraulic lift. IMO the hight is perfect too!
 

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1. Is the STP components worth considering at all? Costs? Does it lower the car any?

3. What about strut tower braces? And the brace in the trunk (don't know technical name)? Also I read about one that attaches to the underside near the tranny?
1 and 3 are easy enough to address, as far as seeing if you would like the STP & Strut bars.
Go test drive a Mopar'10... they have both front & back bars and the fatter STP rear sway bar.
Toss one hard into an on-ramp/off-ramp turn and see how you think it handles compared to yours.

I'm just going to replace the STP Springs with SRT springs(to lower it a tad) and call it a day.
 

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We offer a full line of suspension components, including our most popular SP Lowering springs and our Chubby and Chubby Pro Sway Bar systems.

Our lowering springs retain the proper spring rating to lower the stance of your vehicle while still giving a very comfortable (stock) feeling ride. Plan on our springs lowering your vehicle by 1.4-1.5" without the sag or bottoming out.

Suspension | Stack Performance

Hope this helps.

-SP
 

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2014 Challenger R/T Classic w/6spd manual
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Ok so I'm gonna revive this old dead post 😝

This is some of the stuff I've been looking for. I'm still hunting data on this subject. One of my main questions is does anyone know what I have to do to swap out the breaking system from an R/T to an SRT on a 2014? I'm sure it's more involved than just changing the calipers and rotors.
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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I believe you have to change the spindle and make sure your wheels will fit. I haven't done it myself but that's what I remember hearing.
 

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Yes it's true, need the SRT spindles to use the Brembo brakes.

Or you could do the Charger police 14.5 front brake conversion, it would be way cheaper.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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