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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 R/T with Super Track Pack (Bilsteins) and almost 90,000 highway miles on the car, the rear shocks are blown so I am swapping them out for some Bilstein B6s (basically same thing as my stock rears). I also picked up a Hurst Suspension Kit (lowering springs, sway bars, and sway bar bushings -- appears to be a rebadged Eibach kit?) that I'm planning on putting in at the same time.


My question is, besides all this, what should I probably replace while it's all out? I'm thinking probably front struts since I'm lowering it. Not sure if I should replace end link bushings (or end links altogether), I see that they also sell poly rear shock mount upper and lower bushings but seems kind of overkill. Should I replace cradle bushings while I have the cradle down? Etc. etc.? The car is a daily driver so not looking to set up for track use, just want to bring it back up to par while I'm redoing the suspension. Thank you for any advice!
 

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2014 rt shaker
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Front struts is probably a good idea, if the rear shocks are toast the fronts are probably getting close too.

If you are lowering and swapping sway bars then adjustable sway bar end links would be nice

Just because you are lowering the rear cradle though don’t think those cradle bushing are easy to tackle! I wouldn’t mess with them on a daily driver unless they need replacing. It’s a good time to do a full visual inspection for sure
 

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Yea unless they're bad or you want to do some track time with the car don't do the cradle bushings. Too.much effort for what you are using it for.

If you're lowering it you may also need replacement control arms or offset bushings in order to get your camber back in spec.

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Discussion Starter #4
Are the adjustable sway bar links needed with a modest (1" to 1.5") drop? I would rather have the non-adjustable for the more road-friendly bushings if I don't need the adjustable ones.
 

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Are the adjustable sway bar links needed with a modest (1" to 1.5") drop? I would rather have the non-adjustable for the more road-friendly bushings if I don't need the adjustable ones.
You won't notice the difference in the bushings for the end links

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Discussion Starter #6
You won't notice the difference in the bushings for the end links

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I was thinking more for longevity. This is a daily driver, not a track car. I don’t want to have to replace the end links every year or two. Is that an issue with, say, the BMR adjustable way bar endlinks?

I know the solid energy suspension bushings on the job-adjustable links will last forever.
 

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I was thinking more for longevity. This is a daily driver, not a track car. I don’t want to have to replace the end links every year or two. Is that an issue with, say, the BMR adjustable way bar endlinks?

I know the solid energy suspension bushings on the job-adjustable links will last forever.
I'm not sure about the BMR but the Razors Edge ones are heim joints.

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When you lower the car, the sway bars get pushed out of the angle that the factory set them to.
Adjustable endlinks allow you to realign the sway bar to the proper angle.
If you want to play around with how tight the sway bar is, you would do that with an adjustable bar, not the endlinks.
 

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Ok thanks. Are you glad you went with the adjustable end links? Do you play with the settings?
Yea I'm glad I did. No once I got them set so there was no pre load on the sway bar I've left them. With the stock length links the bar would have been preloaded. As Shaker said adjustments are made by adjusting the holes on the bar not the links.

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Suspension kits

I read through all the post regarding the lowering kits and received some good info from them. When you guys installed the kits, did you do a full swap the sway bars or did you keep the stock sway bars in place and just add the springs? I looked at and have had eibach in the past for lowering a vehicle and I loved it. Want to make sure I get the best fit/performance for my car. I have a 2018 R/T that is stock as of now. I don't like the stock ride height and it needs to be fixed soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can definitely do the springs without the sway bars, the two installs don't really have much to do with each other. I just bought a kit that came with springs and sway bars, so I'm installing them both at the same time. A lot of people buy the sway bars separately so that they can get a bigger bar, or adjustable front bar, which is really popular. It just depends on what you want to do, no set way of doing things.

I read through all the post regarding the lowering kits and received some good info from them. When you guys installed the kits, did you do a full swap the sway bars or did you keep the stock sway bars in place and just add the springs? I looked at and have had eibach in the past for lowering a vehicle and I loved it. Want to make sure I get the best fit/performance for my car. I have a 2018 R/T that is stock as of now. I don't like the stock ride height and it needs to be fixed soon!
 

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I read through all the post regarding the lowering kits and received some good info from them. When you guys installed the kits, did you do a full swap the sway bars or did you keep the stock sway bars in place and just add the springs? I looked at and have had eibach in the past for lowering a vehicle and I loved it. Want to make sure I get the best fit/performance for my car. I have a 2018 R/T that is stock as of now. I don't like the stock ride height and it needs to be fixed soon!


No where did i find anyone that offered a sway bar that was a larger diameter than the stock srt sway bar...which now comes on 2015+ rt’s like mine. I recommend you just get adjustable links and bushings for your factory sway bar.

After lowering the car on springs, although lower to the ground, body roll still persists. Once i did the links after to correct the sway bar geometry it started sticking to the ground a lot nicer and stiffened up quite a bit
 

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No where did i find anyone that offered a sway bar that was a larger diameter than the stock srt sway bar...which now comes on 2015+ rt’s like mine. I recommend you just get adjustable links and bushings for your factory sway bar.

After lowering the car on springs, although lower to the ground, body roll still persists. Once i did the links after to correct the sway bar geometry it started sticking to the ground a lot nicer and stiffened up quite a bit
Where did you find the info on the stock sway bar sizes? I have a 2018 Scat pack and would like to know the sizes of the sway bars stock. Honestly I wouldn't be too concerned with adjustable aftermarkets if they are the same size as stock. If it is true that the Scat packs have the same sway bars as the Hellcats I won't touch them.
 

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Where did you find the info on the stock sway bar sizes? I have a 2018 Scat pack and would like to know the sizes of the sway bars stock. Honestly I wouldn't be too concerned with adjustable aftermarkets if they are the same size as stock. If it is true that the Scat packs have the same sway bars as the Hellcats I won't touch them.


Don’t change the sway bars. The difference is a couple of mm. Not worth the money. The hellcat bars are solid but the SP rear bar is hollow. I’d rather go with adjustable links.
 

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Don’t change the sway bars. The difference is a couple of mm. Not worth the money. The hellcat bars are solid but the SP rear bar is hollow. I’d rather go with adjustable links.
I did a little more digging and I think the 392 has a 32mm front and a 20mm rear. You’re right. For 2 mm each it isn’t worth it. I am thinking about adjustable links and BMR lower trailing arms. Would there be any benefit to getting the adjustable ones?

Also looking at getting BMR jacking rails which are basically bolt in subframe connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The benefit to the adjustable is for lowered cars. It allows you to dial back in the right suspension angle and eliminate preload. Or add preload if you want it at the track. Downside is more noise and the end links have to be replaced every so often.

They claim that even the 2mm increase is like a 50% increase in stiffness ?
 

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The benefit to the adjustable is for lowered cars. It allows you to dial back in the right suspension angle and eliminate preload. Or add preload if you want it at the track. Downside is more noise and the end links have to be replaced every so often.

They claim that even the 2mm increase is like a 50% increase in stiffness ?
Well I have discovered the size of the stock sway bars on the scat pack. I work for a company that is a supplier to FCA and asked one of the engineers at SRT today what the size of the sway bars were. They are 34mm front 22mm rear. My car is a 2018 and he could not recall when the change was made, and also could not confirm whether they were hollow or the solid ones from the hellcat. So I’m not going to be swapping sway bars.
 

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I did a little more digging and I think the 392 has a 32mm front and a 20mm rear. You’re right. For 2 mm each it isn’t worth it. I am thinking about adjustable links and BMR lower trailing arms. Would there be any benefit to getting the adjustable ones?



Also looking at getting BMR jacking rails which are basically bolt in subframe connectors.


https://youtu.be/QGC1IlRtoMw
 

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Well I have discovered the size of the stock sway bars on the scat pack. I work for a company that is a supplier to FCA and asked one of the engineers at SRT today what the size of the sway bars were. They are 34mm front 22mm rear. My car is a 2018 and he could not recall when the change was made, and also could not confirm whether they were hollow or the solid ones from the hellcat. So I’m not going to be swapping sway bars.


Those are the SRT specs. The SP is 32mm in front and 20mm rear, hollow in front and solid in rear. The only solid bars is on the Hellcat.
Focus on the adjustability factor. I used to have the Pettys Garage 3 way adjustable solid rear and hollow front bars and with each level the difference was noticeable.
 
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