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Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to swap out the stock T-stat for a 180* unit and was looking to swap the preditor tune as well.
What's the best way to go about the install. Will I need to top off the fluid? How about bleeding air from the system? When I swap out the 91 tune and go to the 93 how do I reset the fan controlls for the new t-stat?
And finally, what should I expect? I have about sixty pass' on the thing and plan on a bunch more this year. I think my next mod is going to be the jegs exhaust.
 

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T-stat

I did mine last friday, put a large 1 gallon zip lock baggie under the stat housing took loose the 2 bolts let coolant drain into baggie, took the 2 bolts the rest of the way out let more coolant drain popped out the t-stat with a screwdriver let rest of coolant drain, nope didnt fill the gallon zip lock you will think it will but it stops, just dont take off the radiator cap till your done,( I spent the extra money for the jet 180 t- stat when I bought my predator) make sure you get the rubber gasket out of the housing, put in the new t-stat with the bleeder rivet at the top, put the housing back on good and snug and pour the coolant back in the coolant tank. I didnt have to remove the radiator hose just pulled it over and tucked it outa my way. start it up and check for leaks. I lowered all my fan setting by 20 degrees. all 9 of em. runs great shifts are much inproved, turned off my MDS also. Good luck and theres a video to show ya how to do the t-stat change
 

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I did mine last friday, put a large 1 gallon zip lock baggie under the stat housing took loose the 2 bolts let coolant drain into baggie, took the 2 bolts the rest of the way out let more coolant drain popped out the t-stat with a screwdriver let rest of coolant drain, nope didnt fill the gallon zip lock you will think it will but it stops, just dont take off the radiator cap till your done,( I spent the extra money for the jet 180 t- stat when I bought my predator) make sure you get the rubber gasket out of the housing, put in the new t-stat with the bleeder rivet at the top, put the housing back on good and snug and pour the coolant back in the coolant tank. I didnt have to remove the radiator hose just pulled it over and tucked it outa my way. start it up and check for leaks. I lowered all my fan setting by 20 degrees. all 9 of em. runs great shifts are much inproved, turned off my MDS also. Good luck and theres a video to show ya how to do the t-stat change
Thanks for Posting !
I have a new housing and T-Stat on order so this post was awesome for me ! :bigthumb:
Just wondering if you torqued the bolts with a torque wrench and if so, how many lbs.?
I'm one that overtightens stuff so just wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks folks!
I plan on getting to this tomarrow, going to find a gallon ziplock :)
 

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t-stat

I didnt torque mine, just good and tight. I didnt drop the bolt i bust my knuckles. video wasnt me. its only a 30-45 minute job.
 

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did you "burp" the system? i hear people that say this is crucial and some say they didnt do it and havent had any problems.

does anyone know the proper procedure for "burping" the system by the way?
 

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did you "burp" the system? i hear people that say this is crucial and some say they didnt do it and havent had any problems.

does anyone know the proper procedure for "burping" the system by the way?
There's a small allen head plug near the thermostat housing that you can loosen to bleed the air out of the system. The air should work its way out eventually, but if there's too much air right at the thermostat, water won't flow well and it could cause a big problem.

It's a good idea to bleed the air out after the thermostat swap. While the engine is on and cold, loosen the plug until the air starts bubbling out. When the bubbles stop, tighten the plug and you should be done.

Also, if you get a thermostat with a "jiggle valve" (small air bleed), position it directly up to help bleed the air as well. If you have this valve, that may be why you don't always have to bleed the air.

Hope this helps. It'll be an easy job. :)
 

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Burp

I didnt brup mine, I started it up to check for leaks and let it run till the top radiator hose got warm that way I knew the t-stat had opened up then you can squeeze the top hose and see the coolant raise up and down in the coolant tank as you squeeze the top hose, its just like gravity doing its thing to get the air out if there was any. just make sure you have the jiggle rivet to the top of the t-stat when you put it in. and set your fan setting lower, if your not lowering the fan setting the t-stat is kinda a waste of money.
 

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I didnt brup mine, I started it up to check for leaks and let it run till the top radiator hose got warm that way I knew the t-stat had opened up then you can squeeze the top hose and see the coolant raise up and down in the coolant tank as you squeeze the top hose, its just like gravity doing its thing to get the air out if there was any. just make sure you have the jiggle rivet to the top of the t-stat when you put it in. and set your fan setting lower, if your not lowering the fan setting the t-stat is kinda a waste of money.
How do you set your fan lower? Please? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I changed the Tstat and installed the 93 CAI tune but I ain't smart enough too reset the fans lol. It runs cool till I stop though :)
I didn't burp mine but my Jet Tstat had the bleed hole in it.
 

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How do you set your fan lower? Please? Thanks
You have to have a Predator to reset the fan speeds, its the only way (that I know of) a "regular dude" can do it. If you have a Predator, you have to "modify tune" before you install it, then it applies the new fan settings the next time you install the tune. Search the forum for "fan speed".
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks alot. I have my fans adjusted now.
So is there a way to manualy turn on the fans if I'm at the dragstrip and want to cool it off in a hurry?
 

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fans

Noway to turn the fans on to cool the car at the strip that I know of, did ya lower all 9 of the fans by 20 degrees ? if so your car should run much cooler even while idleing in traffic or the staging lanes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I prolly set them a little more the twenty degrees cooler.
I have the LS fans coming on about 185* and the MS about 190* and the HS about 195*
my car will slow down several tenths when it's hot so I hope this keeps that in check.

I will find out the 1st weekend of march, that's when the track opens.
 

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I prolly set them a little more the twenty degrees cooler.
I have the LS fans coming on about 185* and the MS about 190* and the HS about 195*
my car will slow down several tenths when it's hot so I hope this keeps that in check.

I will find out the 1st weekend of march, that's when the track opens.
Fast, just so you know, there is no MS on these cars. I like the settings of 190 for LS and 199 for MS (even though it has no effect) and HS.

185 on your low speed is probably going to run your fan more than you want on the street. With the 180, my car still normally runs 186 or so. Much better than the 210 when new.

also, there are a couple ways to run the fans at the track. I think someone sells some kind of box that you wire into the system so you can just hit a swicth and turn them on. Also, you can buy a new fan connector and at the track unplug the fan, plug in the new connector and wire the other end of the new plug to a stand alone battery. I have seen a challenger owner do this at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It gets sideways pretty easy now :) it seems to have gained some balls in the lower rpm and shifts harder so I'm looking forward to getting a timeslip :)

the gallon ziplock was a great idea. I spilled a little but not much, stuck it back in the tank and check for leaks.

Ron you might be right on the temps once it warms up. I noticed it came on when I sat at a light.
 
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