t1000 93tune and nos?
-
Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of October's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Assuming you want a canned tune instead of your stock tune for the tq mgmnt reduction? Personally I would load the 91 tune, run 93 octane gas, add 12% fuel across the board and pull two degrees across the board.
You're already leand out with a CAI, shortys and catless so you'll need to add fuel for sure. Risky with out a wide band IMO. I would think you want to be in the low 11:1 A/F range with 100 shot.
Get other input from those who have done it...
You're already leand out with a CAI, shortys and catless so you'll need to add fuel for sure. Risky with out a wide band IMO. I would think you want to be in the low 11:1 A/F range with 100 shot.
Get other input from those who have done it...
Joined
·
32 Posts
what makes you think that I am running lean in the first place as the car sets now I do run the tune set up like you stated 91 tune on 93 gas. that's all the car has ever seen but as far as the nos goes its a plate wet kit . and the reason behind the question is I was told that the can tunes have the timing advanced already that's y the question I know the old school way of 1-2* for 50hp shot
Your title states 93 tune...
The canned tunes may account for a CAI but certainly not for catless. That is a custom tune on a dyno or wide band to get that tune correct. Catless will lean you out at least .2 A/Fs, Shorty headers probably a little more so you can't help but be on the lean side with a canned tune that is designed for cats and stock manifolds.
The fact that it is a wet system will help with your fuel so that may or may not be an issue but insurance is the key with NOS. I would want my A/Fs in the mid 11s before I even considered NOS.
Personally I would do a log winding out 1st, 2nd and 3rd with no ST KNKs so you can see how far your timing actually advances. I would keep it around 18 degrees max and would want 8 degrees drop at shift with 100 HP shot. If your log shows no ST KNKs (causing timing to be pulled) then what ever your base spark cyl #1 is will be your timing. If it is 20 degrees, you will need to pull 2 degrees. I would worry the most at shift so a good log ensuring that the canned tune is pulling enough timing at shift would be smart.
Every engine is different so doing your homework up front is what will save your a$$.
I'm NOS ignorant but I would have thought that a quality NOS setup would come with a conservative safe tune.
The canned tunes may account for a CAI but certainly not for catless. That is a custom tune on a dyno or wide band to get that tune correct. Catless will lean you out at least .2 A/Fs, Shorty headers probably a little more so you can't help but be on the lean side with a canned tune that is designed for cats and stock manifolds.
The fact that it is a wet system will help with your fuel so that may or may not be an issue but insurance is the key with NOS. I would want my A/Fs in the mid 11s before I even considered NOS.
Personally I would do a log winding out 1st, 2nd and 3rd with no ST KNKs so you can see how far your timing actually advances. I would keep it around 18 degrees max and would want 8 degrees drop at shift with 100 HP shot. If your log shows no ST KNKs (causing timing to be pulled) then what ever your base spark cyl #1 is will be your timing. If it is 20 degrees, you will need to pull 2 degrees. I would worry the most at shift so a good log ensuring that the canned tune is pulling enough timing at shift would be smart.
Every engine is different so doing your homework up front is what will save your a$$.
I'm NOS ignorant but I would have thought that a quality NOS setup would come with a conservative safe tune.
I run the zex kit from NA to the blower stroker. I have the Trinity and a wideband since day 1. When I was Na, I removed the cats and yes it leaned me out big time. From like 12.2 to 12.8 a/f Just the cat removal. So I would go really start about 8% fuel and make a 2nd into 3rd and let it pull in 3rd a bit running a log. Dont spray at low rpm, get the motor moving 3000rpm then hit it.
The zex works very good as a wet kit. You willl find if you start out with a good tune and a/f ratio the kit will take care of itself with a/f... Keep a log running and take a look at your a.f gauge when you make a hit. Normally the zex kit is fat when you use it as directed with the provided fuel and nawwzz pill. lol lol I had to say that.
You a/f will probally 10.9 to 11.2 while on the juice.
Make sure you pull a little timing out and go one step colder in plugs. Even on a 75 shot it wont hurt to go just one step colder in the case of detnation.
Theres my nickle.
FT
The zex works very good as a wet kit. You willl find if you start out with a good tune and a/f ratio the kit will take care of itself with a/f... Keep a log running and take a look at your a.f gauge when you make a hit. Normally the zex kit is fat when you use it as directed with the provided fuel and nawwzz pill. lol lol I had to say that.
You a/f will probally 10.9 to 11.2 while on the juice.
Make sure you pull a little timing out and go one step colder in plugs. Even on a 75 shot it wont hurt to go just one step colder in the case of detnation.
Theres my nickle.
FT
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Join the discussion
