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Discussion Starter #1
So I've looked at getting a tazer for a while but came to the conclusion that for a 5.7 M6 it's not really worth it for what I specifically want. But. Then my buddy who also has a 16 5.7 got one in his A8. Before he had it if we raced he never got me until about 110+ but after he got it he almost instantly takes off and gets about a car ahead the whole time and very slowly goes faster. That was the only "mod" he had and it legitimately made his car faster. So is that just because he has the A8 and it changes up the way the motor and shifting work, or should it do the same to mine?

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So is that just because he has the A8 and it changes up the way the motor and shifting work

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Yes. TaZer won't help the performance of us M6 owners at all. You'll need to learn to shift faster. Get fatter tires so you can stomp the gas harder without slipping wheels.
 

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Also, if you have not done so, get rid of the clutch delay valve although it might cause your wheels to spin/hop more easily at launch. Deflating the tires some also helps minimize wheel spin.

I like the tazer for my M6 for 3 main reasons (1) line lock, (2) full ESP deactivate at a touch of a button (I installed and programmed Aux buttons) and (3) auto traction control disabled at start-up. Other than that it really is not all that useful for the manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, if you have not done so, get rid of the clutch delay valve although it might cause your wheels to spin/hop more easily at launch. Deflating the tires some also helps minimize wheel spin.

I like the tazer for my M6 for 3 main reasons (1) line lock, (2) full ESP deactivate at a touch of a button (I installed and programmed Aux buttons) and (3) auto traction control disabled at start-up. Other than that it really is not all that useful for the manuals.

The clutch delay valve was one of the first things I did to it after I read more about it. That 1-4 got me every time I didn't expect it. I haven't done a run with the tires deflated a little bit yet, but now that it's cold here finally I was planning on doing just that. Although it makes me giggle that my 0-60 is 5.7 (like the engine) I would rather have a better time than have an ironic time.

See the ESP I hardly ever turn off anyway, usually the SPORT mode traction control is enough for me. Same with it being off automatically when I start the car. I let the engine warm up for about 30-60 seconds anyway so I just use that time to turn that off and put it in sport mode.

The biggest thing I wish i would do for us is give us the performance pages. There is a way to get it to work but nobody has done it that way and had the performance pages actually stay, it usually goes away after like a day or two for most people. I just want that to work so I can put the throttle response at sport but have the steering at comfort. Unless I'm really getting on it I'm not a fan of the stiff steering for daily driving.

I was so excited when I first heard about the tazer, and then so disappointed when I found out how little it actually does for the manual 5.7s.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes. TaZer won't help the performance of us M6 owners at all. You'll need to learn to shift faster. Get fatter tires so you can stomp the gas harder without slipping wheels.
That's what I have slowly (and grudgingly) come to realize haha. My shifts are decently quick, but hopefully will be faster when I eventually get my barton assembly just because everything I've read says it makes it easier and smoother than the OEM assembly.

Yeah I'm well aware that the skinny 245s don't handle the amount of power these thing's lay down. I learned that the hard way. Following my two buddies on a freeway starting at a 45 roll and my tires had no problem spinning when I started it in third as soon as I got on it.
 

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Exactly why I'm not running out to buy a tazer. The only option that I want is track mode so I can run the active exhaust open once in a while for fun. Having to get the bypass harness for the 18 makes it less likely unless I get a screaming deal on one.
 

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This is pretty interesting. I kinda figured as much, but I've been trying to poke around the forum for some input from other M6 owners. Is there any real benefit over the BurnBox G2 for us M6 guys? I have a '17 T/A 392. I feel like "complete off" traction control would be useful, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra $50. How much of a difference is it from the OEM "off" setting (7-ish second button hold)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can completely turn it off if you hold the traction control button and turn the car on and then let go of the start button and continue to hold the traction button. eventually it will completely turn off ESP and completely turn off traction control. Unless that's what you're referring to when you talk about holding the button.

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Discussion Starter #9
What is the burn box? I haven't heard of that one yet

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The biggest thing I wish i would do for us is give us the performance pages. There is a way to get it to work but nobody has done it that way and had the performance pages actually stay, it usually goes away after like a day or two for most people. I just want that to work so I can put the throttle response at sport but have the steering at comfort. Unless I'm really getting on it I'm not a fan of the stiff steering for daily driving.
IMO the performance pages not working is not the Tazer's fault. I am convinced that Uconnect does something to suppress PP on cars not equipped with STP. As for the burnbox, it is similar to the tazer (~$50 cheaper) but does not give all the features of the Tazer.

BTW if you map NO ESP to an Aux button is turns off ESP immediately...no waiting required.

My best 0-60 on my 5.7 when it was NA was 4.8...only because I increased the rev limit so I would not have to shift to 3rd to hit 60 MPH. That shift to 3rd kills the 0-60 time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
IMO the performance pages not working is not the Tazer's fault. I am convinced that Uconnect does something to suppress PP on cars not equipped with STP. As for the burnbox, it is similar to the tazer (~$50 cheaper) but does not give all the features of the Tazer.

BTW if you map NO ESP to an Aux button is turns off ESP immediately...no waiting required.

My best 0-60 on my 5.7 when it was NA was 4.8...only because I increased the rev limit so I would not have to shift to 3rd to hit 60 MPH. That shift to 3rd kills the 0-60 time.

Yeah I know it's a fault with UConnect not the tazer it's self. Which sucks because it is such an awesome feature to have.

Were you able to change the rev limiter with the tazer or did you use something else? Because i agree that fact that second gear stops about 5-10mph away from 60 is what kills the times, and that extra RPM would fix that.

You said when it WAS NA. What do you have done to it now?
 

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Yeah I know it's a fault with UConnect not the tazer it's self. Which sucks because it is such an awesome feature to have.

Were you able to change the rev limiter with the tazer or did you use something else? Because i agree that fact that second gear stops about 5-10mph away from 60 is what kills the times, and that extra RPM would fix that.

You said when it WAS NA. What do you have done to it now?
Sorry about that, I set the rev limiter with a diablo tuner. I installed a supercharger (8lb set-up) but the PCM and tuner arrived before the SC unit so I did some baseline runs before the install. Now trying to do any 0-60 runs (on stock tires) with the SC is a joke as the wheels spin if you are on the throttle past 3000-3500 RPM. I tried launching in 2nd but if you release the clutch too fast you get a massive burn out. All my mods are listed in my sig.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry about that, I set the rev limiter with a diablo tuner. I installed a supercharger (8lb set-up) but the PCM and tuner arrived before the SC unit so I did some baseline runs before the install. Now trying to do any 0-60 runs (on stock tires) with the SC is a joke as the wheels spin if you are on the throttle past 3000-3500 RPM. I tried launching in 2nd but if you release the clutch too fast you get a massive burn out. All my mods are listed in my sig.
I'm looking at getting the Diable tuner when I can get the almost $1000 for the tuner and the PCM, i was just hoping that the tazer would give me something until then performance wise.

That they are haha. That's an impressive set up. I noticed you have a 1 piece driveshaft. What's the advantage over the 2 piece ours comes with? I was actually just looking at this today and I found a lot on why one material used for the one piece DS is better and what one piece DS people prefer but I couldn't find anything on why its better than a stock two piece other than a couple pound difference.

And what exactly is the advantage of the CAM and rods you have?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm looking to get a procharger one day and get as much power as i can out of it, and things like CAMs and pushrods and porting the engine and other engine components i'm still learning about. Like why people have what they have and why they chose those specific parts over others.
 

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What's the advantage over the 2 piece ours comes with?....And what exactly is the advantage of the CAM and rods you have?
The advantage of the one piece is almost no slop in the driveline. The 2 piece (my center bearing/bushing tore) has quite a bit of flex whereas the 1 piece does not. The downside is you get some driveline harmonics at triple digit speed. Now the clutch feels extremely connected to the wheels.

As for the pushrods (did not touch the cam...yet), I replaced them as they gave more preload than the factory rods. This greatly reduced valvetrain noise...the car no longer sounds like at sewing machine around 1500-2000 rpm. The factory push rods are junk and almost all of them where ever so slightly bent. I also installed aluminum A2Speed valve and coil covers which I want to say helped with noise reduction (more dense than plastic ones) but it most likely is wishful thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The advantage of the one piece is almost no slop in the driveline. The 2 piece (my center bearing/bushing tore) has quite a bit of flex whereas the 1 piece does not. The downside is you get some driveline harmonics at triple digit speed. Now the clutch feels extremely connected to the wheels.

As for the pushrods (did not touch the cam...yet), I replaced them as they gave more preload than the factory rods. This greatly reduced valvetrain noise...the car no longer sounds like at sewing machine around 1500-2000 rpm. The factory push rods are junk and almost all of them where ever so slightly bent. I also installed aluminum A2Speed valve and coil covers which I want to say helped with noise reduction (more dense than plastic ones) but it most likely is wishful thinking.
Ohhh got it. So what's the difference in the sizes of the one piece? I saw that there's a few different diameters that you can choose from but no indication of what the sizes do differently. And is it only at triple digit speeds? I don't usually hit past 100 unless I'm feeling a little dangerous haha, so that wouldn't be a problem unless it's also at normal driving conditions too.

So mostly it's more of a drive-ability and general performance type modification, not so much a power modification?
 

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Ohhh got it. So what's the difference in the sizes of the one piece? I saw that there's a few different diameters that you can choose from but no indication of what the sizes do differently. And is it only at triple digit speeds? I don't usually hit past 100 unless I'm feeling a little dangerous haha, so that wouldn't be a problem unless it's also at normal driving conditions too.

So mostly it's more of a drive-ability and general performance type modification, not so much a power modification?
Yup, pretty smooth until I hit 100+. If I had to do it over again I would have stuck with a 3 inch as there is more space for mid mufflers which I can't put back on without modification, that and no existing driveshaft loops fit a 4 inch. The bigger the diameter the faster the shaft can spin before critical speed.

Driveshaft Basics and Tips and Tricks - Hot Rod Network

It's not a power modification.
 

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I also have a M6 RT car. I purchased the tazer to have 1) Line Lock, 2) light shows are nifty 3)crossing my fingners that they will get the shift light to work 4) in motion use for the apps on uconnect
 

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I also have a M6 RT car. I purchased the tazer to have 1) Line Lock, 2) light shows are nifty 3)crossing my fingners that they will get the shift light to work 4) in motion use for the apps on uconnect
I highly doubt the shift light will be enabled for the 5.7. Even if it were, it is not very noticeable. I installed an innovate PSB-1 boost/AFR/shift gauge and the little LED is very noticeable. Can't wait to try it out when the cold weather and road salt disappear. If you use the line lock (I use the ESP disable as well) frequently you might want to look at the Aux button upgrade (replaces the button blanks on the RHS of the steering wheel with programmable buttons). It will give line lock with a simply push and hold of one button.
 

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So I've looked at getting a tazer for a while but came to the conclusion that for a 5.7 M6 it's not really worth it for what I specifically want. But. Then my buddy who also has a 16 5.7 got one in his A8. Before he had it if we raced he never got me until about 110+ but after he got it he almost instantly takes off and gets about a car ahead the whole time and very slowly goes faster. That was the only "mod" he had and it legitimately made his car faster. So is that just because he has the A8 and it changes up the way the motor and shifting work, or should it do the same to mine?

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I also have a M6 RT car. I purchased the tazer to have 1) Line Lock, 2) light shows are nifty 3)crossing my fingners that they will get the shift light to work 4) in motion use for the apps on uconnect
I highly doubt the shift light will be enabled for the 5.7. Even if it were, it is not very noticeable. I installed an innovate PSB-1 boost/AFR/shift gauge and the little LED is very noticeable. Can't wait to try it out when the cold weather and road salt disappear. If you use the line lock (I use the ESP disable as well) frequently you might want to look at the Aux button upgrade (replaces the button blanks on the RHS of the steering wheel with programmable buttons). It will give line lock with a simply push and hold of one button.
Interesting, good to know about the shift light. Something about programming the line lock to one buttom might make it too tempting to use all the time haha i like the two button method to avoid accidental activation.

Side note, everyones talking about full esp off with the tazer, how do i do this?
 

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Interesting, good to know about the shift light. Something about programming the line lock to one buttom might make it too tempting to use all the time haha i like the two button method to avoid accidental activation.

Side note, everyones talking about full esp off with the tazer, how do i do this?
I programmed one of my aux buttons for full ESP off (that includes ABS off BTW). Or you can press and hold the TC button.

Note this is a live function (just like line lock) so tazer must be plugged in.
 

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