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Hello all, just joined your forum. Been searching for the last hour regarding things I should know about before I buy a used 2010 RT. I test drove it today and the only thing I noticed was a slight shimmy at certain speeds in the front end. Nothing major but it got my attention. Maybe just needs tires balanced. Anyhow, I asked them to pull it into the garage so I can look over it better tomorrow morning. Its like zero here so didn't look at it like I want to. So while I am searching and learning is there anything glaring I should know about the 2010 RT? It has 29k on it. Drove as straight as an arrow. Anything you can tell me would be very much appreciated.
 

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I loved my 2010 RT Classic. Only problem I had was the sunroof broke, but the dealer fixed that under warrantee. Apparently there was a run of 2010s with the same sunroof problem, so if the one you are looking at has a sunroof, that COULD be a problem.

As you may know, in 2011 there were several updates to the Challenger, including a better suspension, smaller steering wheel, and (I think) a slightly modified front fascia. There will be another update in 2015 (which will be released publicly this March). So, if you go with a 2010, you'll have a Challenger that is two updates old.

If you have the time and opportunity, I would try driving a 2011 or later RT and compare the driving experience. I have not driven one of the newer ones, but most of the people hear agree that they handle better.

Good luck.

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I love my 2010 R/TC to death. No plans on trading it, and I would buy another 2010, if it was the "right one".

Pricing would have to be in line with what the car is condition wise. I would check with Chrysler on the VIN to check and see what work has been performed on it.

If it's an A5 car, yes, I would like to know if there was already a TC failure and repair, or if upgraded parts were installed before the potential failure.

Some colors offered in 2010 haven't been rerun, so that would be a factor too.

As with any used car purchase, just do some homework on what you're looking at.

Good luck, these are outstanding rides :)
 

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Welcome to the furum. Do not discuss any money or move forward until the shimmy is GONE. You are in control as they really want your money more than you need that car. If you buy it on the promise they will address the issue they will sing a different tune. How they handle it will show you if they are worthy of your money, good luck.
 
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Welcome to the forum!

I bought a 2010 R/T Classic about a year ago now. It had 4,000 miles on it and now it's up to 10,000. After 6k miles I have only noticed one major issue that occasionally arises. I have the 6 speed manual and occasionally car refuses to go into 2nd gear. I'm not driving the car hard or anything like that, but it happens more often if I accelerate in 1st gear quickly. I don't know if other owners have a similar problem, but other the then that, my R/T is my dream car!

Good luck!


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Welcome to the forum!

I bought a 2010 R/T Classic about a year ago now. It had 4,000 miles on it and now it's up to 10,000. After 6k miles I have only noticed one major issue that occasionally arises. I have the 6 speed manual and occasionally car refuses to go into 2nd gear. I'm not driving the car hard or anything like that, but it happens more often if I accelerate in 1st gear quickly. I don't know if other owners have a similar problem, but other the then that, my R/T is my dream car!

Good luck!


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Look up Skip Shift in your manual, your trans is not broken.
 

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Awesome! I figured it wasn't broken but it definitely didn't seem right. Probably more on my end than anything else! Thanks for the pointer though!


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The items to check for:

*tinnerman nuts - these are for assembly but should be removed -they're a sheet metal nut that was used to hold the front rotor onto the hub when the module is shipped from the supplier

*check tension strut rod bushings (common wear item on this platform)

*control arm bushings should be checked

*tie rod ends

*make sure wheels are true / not bent

*tire balance

*inspect tires for any sidewall damage (bulges or ply separation)
 

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Hello all, just joined your forum. Been searching for the last hour regarding things I should know about before I buy a used 2010 RT. I test drove it today and the only thing I noticed was a slight shimmy at certain speeds in the front end. Nothing major but it got my attention. Maybe just needs tires balanced. Anyhow, I asked them to pull it into the garage so I can look over it better tomorrow morning. Its like zero here so didn't look at it like I want to. So while I am searching and learning is there anything glaring I should know about the 2010 RT? It has 29k on it. Drove as straight as an arrow. Anything you can tell me would be very much appreciated.

You didn't mention price but FWIW:

I traded my 010 RT 6spd (leather etc) this past Aug, the car had just over 13k miles on it. I got 24K on the trade and the dealer put it back on the lot for sale at just under 30K. They had it about three months and it sold, I see it around once in a while.

Check the black plastic rocker panels for cracks at both ends on each side. I had both of mine replaced under warranty within a year of taking delivery. Chances are it's been fixed already but take a look. They tend to crack where they wrap around into the wheel well.

Likewise check the inside plastic window molding on both doors. The originals had a tendency to crack / split. Again probably something fixed by previous owner. Problem was corrected in later model year IIRC.

While I never encountered it there have been others who have had issues with sagging front end piece - where the hood meets the front of the car so you might want to look and see if there's a gap starting to develop.

The headlights tend to dim when you apply the brakes. It was a common issue.

There were also some issues with batteries but again the recall / maint info should give you an idea if anything was done in that area.

There is a very long thread in here on the timing chain issue. Take some time and go thru it. While it appears to be a statistically small sample if it happens to you it's a major emotional event. AFAIK it only affects the automatics. So, be aware.

If the car is a 6spd get the skip shift eliminator. They go for less than 20 bucks new and are easily inserted. It will spare you the forced 1st to 4th gear shift.

If you get the car register it on the dodge website. You'll need the vin. The site will keep you up to date on recalls and grants access to owner manuals and some other stuff. You may want to ask the dealer for the maint records on the car, see what they pull up in the puter.

Mine was a nice car, there was nothing wrong with it but I got tired of shifting so I traded it on a new 13 SXT Plus with the SSG. This version is essentially an RT with the 6 banger in it and the suspension feel and tightness of the car is noticeable and way better. I like the 13 a lot more than my 10, sounds crazy but there it is.

So with that in mind I'd suggest you test drive an 11 or later as others have mentioned so you have a point of comparison. In the end you may not care about or notice the difference. Also as noted the reveal on the 15's will be in March and April so you might want to wait a bit more if your money isn't burning a hole in your pocket. As the old saying goes: better is the enemy of good enough.

The 6 spd requires 91 octane or better, the automatic is 89 and I think can use 87, someone else will have to chime in on the latter.

Finally, you didn't say much about what you want to do with the car. If you're a performance nut you'll immediately get caught up in "mod" fever - poke around the threads and you'll quickly see what I mean. It's not a bad thing but just be aware. The car, in stock form, is not a 5.0 or SS beater so if that's your leaning be prepared to spend some coin to go faster. If you don't much care about that kind of stuff then you will find it to be a very cool cruiser and occaisional track toy.

All that said it's a great car and you'll enjoy it. Have fun and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone for the info and making me feel welcome. Took the family back today for another test drive. I looked at the rocker covers and one was cracked by the back tire. Thanks for that heads up. Got a good chance to really look over the car. It must have been taken care of because I found minimal flaws. The salesman showed me the service record from when they took the car in. The front end shimmy I noticed was documented. They turned the rotors, replaced 3 tires and did alignment. Obviously it didn't fix it. When I drove it today I was second guessing myself on the slight shimmy but when I got on the interstate and took it up to 85 it was much more noticeable.
I asked the salesman and he said no recalls were performed on the car. To answer a few more questions, I wont have the mod bug. Want to keep it reliable and best gas mileage as a daily driver. It is hemi orange and they have it on special for $25,900. A few things that messed with me today just due to my unfamiliarity with it is I couldn't figure out how to release power driver seat to allow passenger to get in back. The passenger seat has a lever for it (passenger side not power). Also played with the manual shifter but couldn't figure out how to get it back in the automatic mode.
My feelings so far is I love the car. I wont be hot rodding it but love having the power there if needed. It seems to have been very well taken care of. It is almost flawless and that with 29k miles. I am happy with the handling and don't mind the steering wheel so the 2010 will be fine for me. My purchase would be contingent on them fixing the front end shimmy and the plastic rocker cover and will probably offer $25k. After researching, the new RT's are at least $5k more and looking at the 2010 RT's for sale it seems to be fairly priced already at $25,900 with the lower miles.
The only thing that made me nervous was the blind spot when I check to make sure it is clear to merge right. The panel between the side rear window and the rear window is big enough to make me wonder if it is clear to merge. I will just have to get used to relying more on the mirrors.
So that's where I am. Going to ponder for a bit and keep reading about it on here. I appreciate all the info and if you have any more please fill me in.
 

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I would negotiate for a powertrain warranty of some sort, at least.
 

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5yr/100K is pretty good so long as it transfers to you. I thought it might have only been 3yr/36K, which wouldn't have been enough IMO.
 
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There is no release on the drivers seat, either you tip the seat and they squeeze in or you have to move the seat which takes forever. Best option is they use the other side to enter.
The $5000 difference is you a full warranty, 25,000 less miles on the entire car and peace of mind that nothing has happened to it. If they are asking 25,900 I'd offer 23,000 and see where it goes. They didn't give the last owner more than that.
Good luck.
 

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That sounds reasonable. They have had the car since early November so they may be wanting to move it. Was the hemi orange offered multiple years? I know they have a different orange that is offered on later models that is lighter and less red.
 

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"the slight shimmy but when I got on the interstate and took it up to 85 it was much more noticeable."

As noted earlier, do NOT purchase it until they have fixed this shimmy and you are 100% satisfied. I'd also require they replace that cracked rocker panel, and while they have it on the lift, tell them you want both sides replaced.
YOU are in the drivers seat, don't let them jerk you around before the sale. There ARE other cars out there. If anything feels iffy about the purchase, if your "spidey sense" is tingling and you go against that sixth sense, you may regret it. Don't force it, is what I'm trying to say.........
 

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I have a 2010 SRT I know it is not the same car, but I love it 22 thousand miles and not one problem. Offer $2 thousand less then you will spend on the car , they would counter your offer and they always want to feel they have the upper hand / last word. There are a lot of cars out there , don, t fall in love got to have this one until you own it.

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"the slight shimmy but when I got on the interstate and took it up to 85 it was much more noticeable."

As noted earlier, do NOT purchase it until they have fixed this shimmy and you are 100% satisfied. I'd also require they replace that cracked rocker panel, and while they have it on the lift, tell them you want both sides replaced.
YOU are in the drivers seat, don't let them jerk you around before the sale. There ARE other cars out there. If anything feels iffy about the purchase, if your "spidey sense" is tingling and you go against that sixth sense, you may regret it. Don't force it, is what I'm trying to say.........
I totally agree. Especially since I seen they already attempted to fix it but didn't. My money wont hit their hands until I test drive it and it is fixed.
 
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