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I am having some custom airbrushing done to the hood of my Challenger next week so I decided to test wet sanding and buffing an area. This is on the raised portion of the hood on a 2014 Plum Crazy car. I tried to make the picture of the reflection as similar as I could. Obviously the photo with "stock" in it is the original orange peel. This was all done by hand no block just to where the shinny was gone then buffed out. It looks a LOT better!!!
 

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Yes. However I warn AT YOUR OWN RISK. I had the body shop that does all my non custom paint do this and I am going to see how much they are going to charge. If it is too much I may do it myself but it is a solid whole day.
 

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If anyone is going to try this, never, never, never sand a car without a block. The object of color sanding is to get the high spots down to the low spots and unless you use a block the sandpaper is just following the terrain. A foam block is best for this.

There are shops that advertise this service, where they block out your clearcoat and then polish and wax. Sounds good in theory but the orange peel on these cars is so bad I'd be very concerned about sanding through the clearcoat. You don't even know how much OP is in the color coat.
 

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I agree everyone if you do this use a foam block. This is not a perfectly smooth finish by any means but is much better than the original finish. I have paint experience and the body shop I had try this is a very good shop. This is not a service they offer per say if they go for it, it will not be cheap. The hood is going to get hit with a light pass of 600 grit next week and we will be looking very closely at this area to see if we burn through. It does not matter that much as it is getting painted black.
 

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Yes, please keep us in the loop on your progress.
 

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I see a lot of people ruining their paint jobs. The problem is these cars have very thin paint on them, no room for error. There is another way to achieve the slick paint. Use something like the Meguiar's 3 step Deep Chrystal system. If essentially fills the low spots vs. taking off the high spots, resulting in a smoother finish.
 

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Use something like the Meguiar's 3 step Deep Chrystal system. If essentially fills the low spots vs. taking off the high spots, resulting in a smoother finish.
I'm not inclined to believe this, but it is the 21st Century so who knows?

Let's see some before and after shots.



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I took this picture after I last used the Deep Crystal products, you can see the reflection in the rear bumper cover. It's time consuming, you basically have to wax the car 3 times. Step 1 is a cleaner, or you can skip it and use a Clay Bar. Step 2 is a polish, it adds oil back into the paint, this step fills fine scratches and gives it a deep wet look. This wet look shows a lot more on darker color cars. Step 3 is a Carnauba wax, which seals the paint to outside elements. I've been using this system on my cars for over 10 years, all that I can tell you is once you try it, you'll be totally convinced. Most of the hairline scratches in your paint disappear. And the more you use it on a paint job, the deeper the paint looks. It's just over $20 for all three bottles.



 

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Still want to see before/after pictures showing how it fills low spots in orange peel. Never happen

Paint Cleaner = modern day compound
Polish = Polish
Carnuba Wax = Carnuba Wax

This is the same combination of treatments available from numerous sources, just with their own naming system.

I don't doubt for one second that these products yield stunning results. Any modern, premium system will yield the same results if applied properly.

Car looks GREAT BTW... outstanding job.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will look for these and do a spot on the hood then try to throw a set of pics up comparing all 3.
 

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I've done some wet sanding and its very labor intensive (on guitars) Working on a small area as compared to a cars surface. The results can be quite spectacular, but its certainly not recommended for the inexperienced. Paint is very thin on sharp edges and its very easy to sand through the clear coat and or to the metal if you get too aggressive with the coarser grits. Just saying.
 
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