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Discussion Starter #1
Low battery voltage being the common diagnosis, I am at a quandary. 3 nights ago at a temp of 46 degrees Baby gave me this warning. This warning typically occurs in the dead of winter with temps in the low teens or single digits. I work nights locally (less than 2 miles) and for nearly 2 weeks that is the only time she was driven. At night to work and upon return home, early morning with lights (fogs/driving lights as well) on. I normally will drive Baby for an extended period each week because..........well most of us know why. Nearly 2 weeks of basically around town driving to allow for normal operating temperature with an additional 20 minutes of such are always adhered to. Yes, I do leave early for work and arrive at home late for just this purpose. I normally will drive Baby for an extended highway period (minimum 70 miles) each week because..........well most of us understand why. Not during this time though.

Since then with temps remaining moderate the warning has not recurred. No real change in driving because I've been a little under the weather and just to see if it would return. This morning I checked the (original) battery voltage and it was 12.78 volts which would seem normal to me. I then added a grounding lug under the hood where the grounding lug is supposed to be located but was not included with my base model R/T I guess. Then I checked the voltage at the under hood "jumper locations" and received a 12.68 volts. Again I deem this acceptable considering the distance between the battery and that location.

Baby was mine May 25th of 2010 and has faithfully started and delivered joy since. May 5th was the exact date she rolled out of Brampton if memory serves. I guess what I'm asking is this nearing the end of OEM battery expectancy and do these voltages seem good?
 

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I had a 2010 for a couple years and it did this. Took it to the dealer and they had no clue of course and contacted Chrysler. Chrysler said the fix was to replace the instrument cluster and attached computer. I had it on order but the dealership screwed that up and I never went back to get it fixed. It never caused any other problem just an annoyance on cold mornings.
 

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The same thing happened to me. I would get the "39" on occasion but the car always fired right up... until one day where it wouldn't do anything, even with a jump. You have a bad cell that will soon become a dead cell. I got a new battery at Wal-Mart for $118 with a 3 year warranty, vs. a Mopar battery for $160 with an 18 month warranty.
 

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Extremes in temperatures will bring out deficiencies if the battery is getting weak.

Its testing under load that reveals what the operating voltage is, rather than a static test of voltage. Typically what seeks OK will not pass a load test (high current draw).

In more severe climates probably 4-5 years, I've had batteries make it to 7 years (trunk location helps insulate from heat/cold extremes).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm thinking it was just a fluke as the car always cranks great and fires within 2-3 revolutions. Lack of extended higher speed and low charge rate because of around town driving with lights on. Probably the cause for the warning at such a moderate temp. When I notice a difference in the cranking I'll be looking into a replacement. I've had great luck with the Auto Zone gold line in the past($150) so I'll probably go there when the time comes.
 

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The same thing happened to me. I would get the "39" on occasion but the car always fired right up... until one day where it wouldn't do anything, even with a jump. You have a bad cell that will soon become a dead cell. I got a new battery at Wal-Mart for $118 with a 3 year warranty, vs. a Mopar battery for $160 with an 18 month warranty.
This is probably your case, and when they go they go, not much warning according to friends that have. I got that code last month after unhooking/reconnecting battery for wiring up Shiftlight. You may try cleaning your terminals, or just replace it now 4 years is pretty good on stocker.
 

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I had a 2010 for a couple years and it did this. Took it to the dealer and they had no clue of course and contacted Chrysler. Chrysler said the fix was to replace the instrument cluster and attached computer. I had it on order but the dealership screwed that up and I never went back to get it fixed. It never caused any other problem just an annoyance on cold mornings.
Unless you absolutely have to don't let the dealer replace the instrument cluster. I had one fail on a 2005 Tahoe a few years ago and when I went to sell the car it cost me. You may recall if you've sold a car or traded one in they ask if there have been any changes to the odometer. If the dealer swaps out the instrument cluster that counts as a change. This change will impact the value of the car by around 10 to 20 percent.

Just a fair warning folks.:D
 

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Unless you absolutely have to don't let the dealer replace the instrument cluster. I had one fail on a 2005 Tahoe a few years ago and when I went to sell the car it cost me. You may recall if you've sold a car or traded one in they ask if there have been any changes to the odometer. If the dealer swaps out the instrument cluster that counts as a change. This change will impact the value of the car by around 10 to 20 percent.

Just a fair warning folks.:D
The dealer told me that they supply the mileage to Chrysler and Chrysler pre-loads the mileage and sales code so that you get the options you paid for and nothing extra. Apparently all the clusters are the same but if you didn't pay for electronics convienience package for example, they're going to make sure you don't get access to those functions on the new cluster.
 

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The dealer told me that they supply the mileage to Chrysler and Chrysler pre-loads the mileage and sales code so that you get the options you paid for and nothing extra. Apparently all the clusters are the same but if you didn't pay for electronics convienience package for example, they're going to make sure you don't get access to those functions on the new cluster.
Yes they do a complete transfer but that does not change the fact that it will not be the original odometer. The dealer is required by law to report it. It will show up on a CarFax report. Just sayin!
 

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Mine has been doing this for years on a cold day. I expect the poster who mentioned the instrument cluster was right on the money. Battery tested out fine, but I'll be replacing in the spring. We'll see if the code 39 continues...
 
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How???????

Compared to an engine bay...exposed to ambient temps (as in low winter temperatures or the heat of the engine / exhaust system.

I used to live in an area that had 100*F temperatures - my batteries would last an average of three years tops. They usually gave out in the summer.

Those prior vehicles had batteries in the engine compartment. So parked for several hours on a 30* days or driven on a hot summer day, the engine bay got well over 250* after driving and a hot soak after shutdown, as an example.

My Challenger and my other car have trunk mounted batteries - they don't get as cold / hot since they're in a enclosed space. The other car's original batter lasted 7 1/2 years - daily driver.
That replacement battery was installed in Summer 2008, so its almost 5 1/2 years and going strong. It was load tested just a couple of months ago.

My cars will sit for 4 - 5 days at times, but they get driven year-round otherwise.

In the 12+ years, I've noticed longer battery life since they aren't exposed to the temperature extremes like most other makes that install the battery in the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
A big 12 degrees this morning. No #39. Drove approximately 150 highway miles this last weekend. I need to heed my own advice and drive her more rapidly I guess. :sneaky:

I do believe as well that the battery being located in the trunk should bode well for longevity. Less exposure to extreme temps is a major plus for battery life. Being in the trunk and being blocked from driven cold can't hurt.
 
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