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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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2014 rt shaker
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Those spacers are on my 2005 magnum rt, my only go-fast mods on that car are intake/canned 91 tune and tranzformer, the car has 2012 srt charger wheels on it.... I haven't put it on a dyno, I guess I probably will after I finally get a few more parts swapped out.

They were recommended to me by my friend who drives a gt3 Porsche, he said they were highly regarded in the Porsche performance world so I figured that they would be good enough for me..

I did end up cutting about an inch off of the factory studs.
I did a test fit of the spacers, I wrapped electrical tape around the excess length of the studs, then I removed the spacers and cut the studs where they were marked with my porta-band saw.
The process took about 10min longer than it does to take the wheel off and put it back on.
I know I could've replaced the studs with shorter ones but I figured if I ever went back to no spacers I would just replace them with factory replacements at that time.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow. Yes that helps a lot thank you. I was very worried t ha Y if I continued to add power either now or in the future that I might shear a bolt, but I guess if they are good enough of a Porsche then I should have no problems with them.

Shaker you had mentioned you cut the bolts. Can this be put on without cutting them or getting shorter one?

Thanks for all of your help.

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Dear Mweyand619,

I recently ordered 25mm simple hub-centric spacers for my back wheels. There are 2 paths you can take with wheel spacers. One is a spacer that has the studs pressed in and bolts to the factory studs, OR a simple spacer that uses the existing factor studs.

FYI, the studs on our Challengers are M14x1.5 thread, 50mm long (~2") (5x115mm bolt pattern). There is a limit to how wide a spacer you can use until you exceed the number of threads on the stud. The rule-of-thumb is typically a minimum of 1.5 x the bolt major diameter for the number of threads. For M14 bolts that works out to 21mm of thread length. For a 1.5mm pitch that's 21/1.5 = 14 threads. I don't know how many threads are available for the nut on a factory wheel, but would presume it's at least 14. Maybe on another posting someone knows the amount of available thread on the factory wheels. Let's say it's 25mm on the factory wheels. Then you could use a simple 11mm hub-centric spacer, not change a thing, and still be safe.

Once you go much wider, like I did, you need to use either the popular one piece adapter that bolts to the existing hub, or a simple hub-centric spacer.
Pros of the 1 piece adapter is you can just bolt it on, have a range of spacing options and can change it to a different size, or bolt pattern.

Cons of the 1 piece adapter, which are debatable, is how well the studs stay pressed into the 6061-T6 aluminum. There are stories of race cars that had wheels break or come off because the studs in these spacers failed. I think that is pretty rare, and for a street car it's probably not an issue. Another con is that you are using twice the number of nuts to hold your wheel on.

Pros of the simple hub-centric spacer is it does not have the press in studs, doesn't bolt on and comes off easily with the wheel.

Cons of the hub-centric spacer is it requires that you put in new wheel studs to accommodate the extra thread needed. Another con is the replacement stud spline diameter and length need to be identical to the factory stud you are removing. Dorman sells a huge variety of wheel studs, so finding a match is possible. Another con is the studs can get bent because they are so long. All the bending force is toward the end of the stud. I expect that with long studs (>3.5") this could be a big issue, but again it depends on the application.

With that said, I went with the cheaper, simple hub-centric spacer and bought longer wheel studs to replace the factory studs. IMO, a 1" longer stud is not going to be an issue for the street.
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech sells them.

Very Best,
Green Man
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dear,
Green Man

Thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for. The only trouble now is going to be deciding which route to take with this but I have a feeling I'm going to go with the 1 piece adapter. That seems to me like it might be a bit better for me. I'm sure I'm not putting out anywhere near enough power to brake anything. Do you think it would be safe to use on the track(just the strip) or should I remove them when I go? Thanks for all the help!

-Mike
 

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Mweyand619,

I met with Eric Vaughn, the wheel widening guru, a week ago and we discussed spacers. He sees a lot of his customers with high RWHP cars like Corvettes, GTs and Camaros use the 1 piece adapters with no problems. I honestly don't know what the width limitations of an adapter are. I'm sure there is a minimum thickness, but how wide I don't know. Popular widths are 12, 25 and 30mm.

More info...
The Challenger factory studs are 50mm long, with a 16.02mm knurl and a 17.99mm shoulder length. The Dorman part number is 610-502.

The ones I bought are Dorman part number 610-509. They are 73.4mm long, with a 15.93mm knurl and a 17.14mm shoulder length. The difference in knurl diameter is -0.09mm which is fine. The 0.85mm shorter shoulder length is not an issue.

With the factory rim offsets, anything more than a 25mm spacer will move the tire outside the fender well. Not only does that invite tire rubbing/scraping for lowered Challengers, but it now looks like a truck. Measure carefully before you buy your spacers.

Yes, a 25mm thick adapter spacer would be fine at the track. I would hesitate to put them on a 707 HP car. But if you can afford to own a car like that and race it, money is not an obstacle.

Lastly, I talked to the guy at Motorsport, Lenny. He is very knowledgeable and willing to do custom spacers at a fair price and fast delivery. I would buy from them.

Regards,

Green Man
 
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