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I know its been drug through the mud... i have been researching for the last couple of weeks and have found no conclusive answer that i like. here's where I'm at. 2015 scat pack challenger. 6.4, m6. 28,000 miles. it's now 600 miles into its 3rd tranny. all replaced under factory warranty. yay, but im not satisfied with the trans. I plan on doing a barton shifter. but even with that, these sychros just suck. I know the vipers, corvettes, camaros, chargers and challengers all have the tr6060 but strictly speaking for the chargers and challenger, bc all others use different synchros, what fluid has made them behave the best? what fluids have made them worse than they were? I've heard many corvette and camaro owners speak about what has worked. but im looking for challenger/charger guys.

I had read a thread where some people would praise RP sychromax(not specified for our trans or certified), and redline D4 (also not what is called for), says it shifts like butter now, then another will chime in and say the same stuff made theirs worse. Those fluids are not recommended and will undoubtedly kill the synchros over time. :grim: Some people just shouldn't be allowed to mess with stuff. Also i get the feeling that many of those kinds of guys are commenting throwing these unapproved fluids out there...

i am considering:
Royal Purple MAX ATF
Amsoil Torque Drive or their signature series ATF
Redline C+

and any other that you all have had luck with.

on a side note, i have a hum or whine i would assume is from the diff, but i cannot confirm. it hasn't changed with any of the trans i've had in the car. its not crazy loud and changes with speed but not as much as one would think from a diff that is about to fail. i don't notice it as much in the lower gears. not that its hit or miss, just that its so quiet i dont think its there. mainly 5th and 6th. at low rpm, low throttle. if the exhaust gets too loud, you cant hear it either. it only happens when i apply gas. even slightly. if i let off, it goes away. Part of me thinks it could be an electronic noise. the throttle body is electronic no? anyone else experience this noise? do all of the scat pack m6 guys reading this have this noise? wasnt there a recall on this? or was it from decel whining?
 

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I’d just go with factory oem ATF+4 fluid. I replaced mine with Mobil 1 and didn’t feel a difference. That’s the fluid tremec recommends. Do the clutch delay valve mod and you’ll feel a difference. Long thread on here about that. Barton shifter a must IMO if you have a manual. Put a little modifier in the differential and it may eliminate the noise.
 

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I use the Driven STF transmission fluid - they developed this fluid specifically for Tremec 6 speeds with the purpose to improve the transmission performance characteristics beyond what ATF+4 provided.

I've used it in both my former '09 and my current '16 M6 Challengers.

They did more friction modifiers to improve the action of the synchros - makes the shifting action much smoother.
 

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Am I the only one who doesn't notice notchiness? I've owned 2 6 speed Challengers: a 2010 5.7L and now my 2016 392. Both cars have shifted just fine. When my 2010 got past 50,000~ or so km is was nicely broken in and shifted great. I'm not there yet with my '16 but even now it's fine. Did I just get lucky and get the only 2 6 speeds ever made that don't have notchiness? Obviously I'm not complaining but makes me wonder what's going on.
 

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Am I the only one who doesn't notice notchiness? I've owned 2 6 speed Challengers: a 2010 5.7L and now my 2016 392. Both cars have shifted just fine. When my 2010 got past 50,000~ or so km is was nicely broken in and shifted great. I'm not there yet with my '16 but even now it's fine. Did I just get lucky and get the only 2 6 speeds ever made that don't have notchiness? Obviously I'm not complaining but makes me wonder what's going on.
My '16 M6 drove like it was already broken - no notchy shifting at all.

My '09 had a 1>2 nibble on cold shifts; by 14K it was greatly reduced and would only do this on the first couple of cold start shifts and that would be it.
 
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I changed my transmission fluid in my '15 SP after 30k with Mobil 1 ATF4 synthetic. I would also suggest doing the clutch delay valve delete. It helps. If you're able to get the front end jacked up, it will only take 15 min if you have a good 45 or 90 degree pick to get the restriction out. As for the whine from the differential, I had the same issue after replacing my fluid along with the tranny fluid using Mobil 1 75w90. I would hear a whining sound. I went to oreilleys and got a bottle of "lubegard limited slip additive". I added the entire bottle and within less than 50 miles of driving the whine was gone.

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Are you feeling the nibbling / clash just on 3-2 down shifts or on the 1-2 also ?
The 09 - 10 were very bad on shifting when cold and there was a bulletin on them.
I have been replacing the synchro blocker rings with the upgrades carbon and hybird in all Viper 6060's for a big improvement in shifting
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update. I’m now on my 3rd tranny. About to be 4th. The only thing I know for sure, is that on a perfectly functioning trans, that is, one that does not have anything wrong with it, not to say it shifts perfect, bc even in a brand new or broken in state with no damage, the notchiness is still felt, and the synchros are still debatably junk. DRIVEN STF, will be the difference between, being thrilled to drive the car, and trading it in. My trans has issues, but that fluid helps tremendously.
Currently my car is hard to get into 1st sometimes, other times, it slides right in, even when stopped. 2nd is much worse than 1st. And I have noticed that when shifting 1-2 mainly and especially when cold, 2nd will push back even when I think I’m in gear. 4th has done it a couple times as well. It kicks back on me. Like those boxes in videos where you open them or press a button or flip a switch and the box opens up and undoes your action then swiftly closes. Best way I can describe it. Also down shifts, mainly 1 & 2 do not want to fall into gear. If I wiggle the shifter and apply light pressure the direction I need, it will go within a second. And I can man handle it and force it in, but I shouldn’t have to. This is especially when cold. Since using the driven STF, this doesn’t really happen when fully warm. The car performs perfect or near it when at operating temp under NORMAL easy driving. But I hardly drive my car long enough for the trans to reach operating temp. Also I don’t really see high rpm either. Usually not over mid 2k’s on downshifts.
It’s been really cold for Tennessee this past couple weeks, in the teens, and I have noticed after leaving work when my car is really cold, is when it’s the worst. I actually grinder 1st and 2nd before ever releasing the clutch leaving one day. Which screams clutch, but I’m not really sure what to blame. I did delete the CDV, and by no means was I shifting fast, so I didn’t expect to grind.

My plan is to have a 4th trans put in the car, do break in procedures perfectly, after 500 mi, put DRIVEN STF in, drive easy for another 5 K, change fluid for more DRIVEN, get best clutch possible, and Barton shifter, and maybe some viper blocker rings. I hope and pray that will satisfy me. I just am one to think it should work and be capacble if functioning perfectly no matter how hard you want to push it after break in. If it won’t handle it, it’s not doing what it SHOULD have been designed to do.

Anyone had luck completely eliminating their issues please chime in.
 

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For a decade or more, I've heard that the nature of the Tremec 6060 beast is to nibble. I've seen more explanations than I can remember but in the end, people who want a butter smooth Tremec will have to dump thousands of dollars into a custom rebuild. This route is the only one I have seen work to satisfaction.

Fluids can do a lot but they will not solve the problem completely. The Joe Gibbs oil you've mentioned works fantastic. I have used it in the past in a Gen 5 Camaro with significant improvement. I can also tell you that Redline ATF+ works just as well.

In the end though, you have to go to a specialty Tremec trans shop and get them to gut and rebuild the thing. There are several out there who offer rebuild packages ranging from 3 - 7 grand depending upon your application (street, track, etc.).
 

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Update. DRIVEN STF, will be the difference between, being thrilled to drive the car, and trading it in. My trans has issues, but that fluid helps tremendously.

Currently my car is hard to get into 1st sometimes, other times, it slides right in, even when stopped. 2nd is much worse than 1st. And I have noticed that when shifting 1-2 mainly and especially when cold, 2nd will push back even when I think I’m in gear. 4th has done it a couple times as well. It kicks back on me.

Also down shifts, mainly 1 & 2 do not want to fall into gear. If I wiggle the shifter and apply light pressure the direction I need, it will go within a second. And I can man handle it and force it in, but I shouldn’t have to. This is especially when cold. Since using the driven STF, this doesn’t really happen when fully warm. The car performs perfect or near it when at operating temp under NORMAL easy driving. But I hardly drive my car long enough for the trans to reach operating temp. Also I don’t really see high rpm either. Usually not over mid 2k’s on downshifts.

It’s been really cold for Tennessee this past couple weeks, in the teens, and I have noticed after leaving work when my car is really cold, is when it’s the worst. I actually grinder 1st and 2nd before ever releasing the clutch leaving one day. Which screams clutch, but I’m not really sure what to blame. I did delete the CDV, and by no means was I shifting fast, so I didn’t expect to grind.

My plan is to have a 4th trans put in the car, do break in procedures perfectly, after 500 mi, put DRIVEN STF in, drive easy for another 5 K, change fluid for more DRIVEN, get best clutch possible, and Barton shifter, and maybe some viper blocker rings. I hope and pray that will satisfy me. I just am one to think it should work and be capacble if functioning perfectly no matter how hard you want to push it after break in. If it won’t handle it, it’s not doing what it SHOULD have been designed to do.

Anyone had luck completely eliminating their issues please chime in.
Glad to hear you've found improvements with using Driven STF - it made a great deal of improvement on my '09. I had 43k on mine at the time I traded it in to order my '16 SPS (M6).

What year is your car? has the trans ever been pulled? - I ask because the input shaft spline grease issue seems to have continued up in to '12/'13/'14 years. A friend with a low mile '13 R/T (< 30K) had the sticking clutch grease issue that was taken care under warranty recently. He reports it shifts smoother than ever did before. [I had same issue with the '09 - after the splines were cleaned and lubed with the correct grease, it was smoother than ever]

If you're getting grinding 1st /2nd on cold drive away and clutch should be released, that sounds like clutch dragging causing that symptom since it goes away as it warms up.

Low temps are going to affect fluid viscosity, internal clearances on manual transmissions - its the nature of the beast.

My '16 M6 shifted smoother than the '09 - I changed over to Driven STF @ 6K - it didn't seem to make much difference. The '16 has been much smoother from day 1 vs. how the '09 behaved until I accumulated 13K> on that '09.
The OEM shifter on '15+ improved the soft bushing deflection issue that the '09 - '14 shifters had, along with a lot of slop in the shift mechanism. [I had the Hurst with Larry's mod on the '09]

However, 2nd gear effort is different vs. the others (no nibble) and over 2+ years, I've become accustomed to make sure its positively fully into the 2nd gate. I had a few times where I wasn't fully into 2nd and it ground or kicked out. The shorter shift lever and taller console on the '15+ probably contribute to that.

That being said, the stock '16 shifter is that much better than what I had in the other car, I've left it stock, not feeling the need to spend $400+.

Production tolerances seem to vary a lot of these Tremecs - its been noted on Camaros, GTOs, Mustangs, CTS-Vs and 'Vettes that used the TR6060 model that some of them would be smooth, some were more temperamental.
 

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I have a 09. I have had the trans out multiple times working in the motor. You and grease the splines and it will help for a while
You can change fluid as I change mine with amsoil and seams to help FOR A WHILE. Manual transmission I don’t think in general shift smooth

You can send it to tick performance. Or rpm. And spend 3-4 grand. And it will be better but you have as much in the trans as you would a new one. It is just a byproduct of it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I know its been drug through the mud... i have been researching for the last couple of weeks and have found no conclusive answer that i like. here's where I'm at. 2015 scat pack challenger. 6.4, m6. 28,000 miles. it's now 600 miles into its 3rd tranny. all replaced under factory warranty. yay, but im not satisfied with the trans. I plan on doing a barton shifter. but even with that, these sychros just suck. I know the vipers, corvettes, camaros, chargers and challengers all have the tr6060 but strictly speaking for the chargers and challenger, bc all others use different synchros, what fluid has made them behave the best? what fluids have made them worse than they were? I've heard many corvette and camaro owners speak about what has worked. but im looking for challenger/charger guys.

I had read a thread where some people would praise RP sychromax(not specified for our trans or certified), and redline D4 (also not what is called for), says it shifts like butter now, then another will chime in and say the same stuff made theirs worse. Those fluids are not recommended and will undoubtedly kill the synchros over time. :grim: Some people just shouldn't be allowed to mess with stuff. Also i get the feeling that many of those kinds of guys are commenting throwing these unapproved fluids out there...

i am considering:
Royal Purple MAX ATF
Amsoil Torque Drive or their signature series ATF
Redline C+

and any other that you all have had luck with.

on a side note, i have a hum or whine i would assume is from the diff, but i cannot confirm. it hasn't changed with any of the trans i've had in the car. its not crazy loud and changes with speed but not as much as one would think from a diff that is about to fail. i don't notice it as much in the lower gears. not that its hit or miss, just that its so quiet i dont think its there. mainly 5th and 6th. at low rpm, low throttle. if the exhaust gets too loud, you cant hear it either. it only happens when i apply gas. even slightly. if i let off, it goes away. Part of me thinks it could be an electronic noise. the throttle body is electronic no? anyone else experience this noise? do all of the scat pack m6 guys reading this have this noise? wasnt there a recall on this? or was it from decel whining?
Somewhere on this web site is a post that has a link to another website explaining how to repair the syncro problem. Note that this is not a cheap fix because it requires tearing down the transmission to do it, but it only requires replacing one syncro. If I remember correctly, it will cost about $1K because of the labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update. DRIVEN STF, will be the difference between, being thrilled to drive the car, and trading it in. My trans has issues, but that fluid helps tremendously.

Currently my car is hard to get into 1st sometimes, other times, it slides right in, even when stopped. 2nd is much worse than 1st. And I have noticed that when shifting 1-2 mainly and especially when cold, 2nd will push back even when I think I’m in gear. 4th has done it a couple times as well. It kicks back on me.

Also down shifts, mainly 1 & 2 do not want to fall into gear. If I wiggle the shifter and apply light pressure the direction I need, it will go within a second. And I can man handle it and force it in, but I shouldn’t have to. This is especially when cold. Since using the driven STF, this doesn’t really happen when fully warm. The car performs perfect or near it when at operating temp under NORMAL easy driving. But I hardly drive my car long enough for the trans to reach operating temp. Also I don’t really see high rpm either. Usually not over mid 2k’s on downshifts.

It’s been really cold for Tennessee this past couple weeks, in the teens, and I have noticed after leaving work when my car is really cold, is when it’s the worst. I actually grinder 1st and 2nd before ever releasing the clutch leaving one day. Which screams clutch, but I’m not really sure what to blame. I did delete the CDV, and by no means was I shifting fast, so I didn’t expect to grind.

My plan is to have a 4th trans put in the car, do break in procedures perfectly, after 500 mi, put DRIVEN STF in, drive easy for another 5 K, change fluid for more DRIVEN, get best clutch possible, and Barton shifter, and maybe some viper blocker rings. I hope and pray that will satisfy me. I just am one to think it should work and be capacble if functioning perfectly no matter how hard you want to push it after break in. If it won’t handle it, it’s not doing what it SHOULD have been designed to do.

Anyone had luck completely eliminating their issues please chime in.
Glad to hear you've found improvements with using Driven STF - it made a great deal of improvement on my '09. I had 43k on mine at the time I traded it in to order my '16 SPS (M6).

What year is your car? has the trans ever been pulled? - I ask because the input shaft spline grease issue seems to have continued up in to '12/'13/'14 years. A friend with a low mile '13 R/T (< 30K) had the sticking clutch grease issue that was taken care under warranty recently. He reports it shifts smoother than ever did before. [I had same issue with the '09 - after the splines were cleaned and lubed with the correct grease, it was smoother than ever]

If you're getting grinding 1st /2nd on cold drive away and clutch should be released, that sounds like clutch dragging causing that symptom since it goes away as it warms up.

Low temps are going to affect fluid viscosity, internal clearances on manual transmissions - its the nature of the beast.

My '16 M6 shifted smoother than the '09 - I changed over to Driven STF @ 6K - it didn't seem to make much difference. The '16 has been much smoother from day 1 vs. how the '09 behaved until I accumulated 13K> on that '09.
The OEM shifter on '15+ improved the soft bushing deflection issue that the '09 - '14 shifters had, along with a lot of slop in the shift mechanism. [I had the Hurst with Larry's mod on the '09]

However, 2nd gear effort is different vs. the others (no nibble) and over 2+ years, I've become accustomed to make sure its positively fully into the 2nd gate. I had a few times where I wasn't fully into 2nd and it ground or kicked out. The shorter shift lever and taller console on the '15+ probably contribute to that.

That being said, the stock '16 shifter is that much better than what I had in the other car, I've left it stock, not feeling the need to spend $400+.

Production tolerances seem to vary a lot of these Tremecs - its been noted on Camaros, GTOs, Mustangs, CTS-Vs and 'Vettes that used the TR6060 model that some of them would be smooth, some were more temperamental.
My car is a 2015 Scat pack. Trans has been pulled. Completely replaced by dealer. Car has 31,xxx miles. Had 27,xxx when original trans was replaced due to stripped 5th gear and grinding reverse. Dealer pulled it apart and said they found shavings. I was thrilled to get a BRAND new trans, had just bought the car a month prior. Dealer did not disclose that the trans was not broke in and gave no instruction for break in procedure, one 3-4 thrashing and 80 miles into a brand new trans, it grenaded itself. Locked up completely. Trans #3 is in the car now. Has grinds, and nibbles are seems far more problematic than original.

Side note, did a 4th gear pull on interstate against a turbo BMW M car, pretty close match, tried to hit 5th, and felt like I was shifting with a wet noodle. Didn’t grind, just missed altogether and jumped above redline...

I know its been drug through the mud... i have been researching for the last couple of weeks and have found no conclusive answer that i like. here's where I'm at. 2015 scat pack challenger. 6.4, m6. 28,000 miles. it's now 600 miles into its 3rd tranny. all replaced under factory warranty. yay, but im not satisfied with the trans. I plan on doing a barton shifter. but even with that, these sychros just suck. I know the vipers, corvettes, camaros, chargers and challengers all have the tr6060 but strictly speaking for the chargers and challenger, bc all others use different synchros, what fluid has made them behave the best? what fluids have made them worse than they were? I've heard many corvette and camaro owners speak about what has worked. but im looking for challenger/charger guys.

I had read a thread where some people would praise RP sychromax(not specified for our trans or certified), and redline D4 (also not what is called for), says it shifts like butter now, then another will chime in and say the same stuff made theirs worse. Those fluids are not recommended and will undoubtedly kill the synchros over time.
Some people just shouldn't be allowed to mess with stuff. Also i get the feeling that many of those kinds of guys are commenting throwing these unapproved fluids out there...

i am considering:
Royal Purple MAX ATF
Amsoil Torque Drive or their signature series ATF
Redline C+

and any other that you all have had luck with.

on a side note, i have a hum or whine i would assume is from the diff, but i cannot confirm. it hasn't changed with any of the trans i've had in the car. its not crazy loud and changes with speed but not as much as one would think from a diff that is about to fail. i don't notice it as much in the lower gears. not that its hit or miss, just that its so quiet i dont think its there. mainly 5th and 6th. at low rpm, low throttle. if the exhaust gets too loud, you cant hear it either. it only happens when i apply gas. even slightly. if i let off, it goes away. Part of me thinks it could be an electronic noise. the throttle body is electronic no? anyone else experience this noise? do all of the scat pack m6 guys reading this have this noise? wasnt there a recall on this? or was it from decel whining?
Somewhere on this web site is a post that has a link to another website explaining how to repair the syncro problem. Note that this is not a cheap fix because it requires tearing down the transmission to do it, but it only requires replacing one syncro. If I remember correctly, it will cost about $1K because of the labor.
I’ll look for that. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I suppose in a nut shell I just feel like, if I decide to give it all it has, and shift hard, 1-4 fights me all the way, I can make do what I want, but I feel like I’m ripping it a new Ass when I do so, it has never operated like it’s supposed to handle that power or those RMP’s. And 5th gear might as well not even be available if sport mode is on, because it’s not going into gear if your on it with out a whole seconds hesitation and a rev match.

Does anyone else’s shifter have play when it’s in gear? Not much... it just doesn’t feel tight... and I’ve noticed, if my hand is pulling on the shift knob once in gear, say I’m in 2nd and pull the shifter deeper into gear towards the rear of car, the moving parts sound much more audible. Not a grinding or anything, but a greased quiet vs. a dry noisy bearing like sound.
 

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4th trans on a 2015? I'd get rid of the car. Something else is going on.

For what it's worth, I'm at 18k on a 2016 Scat Shaker. 2nd gear is sometimes "tight" with the frigid temps here (I drive it year round), but no shifting issues or nibbles or grinds whatsoever. I do have a Barton shifter.

When I had a 5th gen Camaro, that thing always nibbled and bit on the 1-2 shift in cold temps. Even after installing the 1LE short shifter. Same 6060 trans. The one in my Challenger--night and day--but it probably is the shifter more than anything. Still has the original trans fluid and I don't plan on changing it soon.

I'd get rid of the car and start over.
 

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The Barton shifter with the weighted shit knob helped a lot on my 15 SRT392. I hated how the car shifted before even after cdv delete and skip shift. It's still not perfect but a lot better. I think i'm going to try that Driven STF next hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
4th trans on a 2015? I'd get rid of the car. Something else is going on.

For what it's worth, I'm at 18k on a 2016 Scat Shaker. 2nd gear is sometimes "tight" with the frigid temps here (I drive it year round), but no shifting issues or nibbles or grinds whatsoever. I do have a Barton shifter.

When I had a 5th gen Camaro, that thing always nibbled and bit on the 1-2 shift in cold temps. Even after installing the 1LE short shifter. Same 6060 trans. The one in my Challenger--night and day--but it probably is the shifter more than anything. Still has the original trans fluid and I don't plan on changing it soon.

I'd get rid of the car and start over.
No it’s on it’s 3rd and I’m assuming it’s going to need a 4th. But I’m covered up until 60,000 miles. I feel like partly it’s not the parts fault. Originally 5th and reverse were stripped. That’s a given. Previous owner was racing it, tried to hit 5th, failed, and stripped it. I’ve torn up a couple that way myself in my younger days. Reverse synchro is 5-6 as well. Explained. 2nd trans, had zero break in time until I was hitting it over the head with 485 HP. Which I wasn’t told, and I wanted to make sure the unit I got wasn’t a bad one, so I thought i’d Test it. The had the car a month, I assumed the dealership broke it in. Procedures are very specific, you’d think with 5k on the line they wouldn’t rely on customers to do it.
Here’s the curve ball, which I am rather embarrassed to share... lol 3rd trans, current one, after 500 miles had ATF taken out, and RP ATF +4 put in, when filling the trans, I didn’t have a pump. I found a clean kitchen soap dispenser, of a soft metal variety, with a 4” neck, I was going to put a hose on it, but due to where the hole was at on the side, I couldn’t, rather than go to the store and buy the right tool, I carefully used the soap dispenser. After 3.7qt and what seemed like hours, I pulled the pump out, to find indentions, and scrapes on the side of it. I had already ordered the DRIVEN STF which was en route, so I figured a few miles over a day wouldn’t hurt for some soft metal flakes. But from leaving my driveway I suspected it contacted 2nd synchro because it was not right. Suppppppeeeeerrrrrr notchy. Hard to get into gear. I changed to drive and found a load of metal flakes come out... uh oh. Drove with driven which made huge improvement over RP but that could have been due to the gritty metal flakes in the fluid. I noticed when cold, the car was more difficult to get into gears. I had assumed the trans was soap at this point so I changed my trans fluid back to ATF +4 today when changing my engine oil as well, supertech. Walmart special. It’s a certified ATF+4 though. Did this because I didn’t want dealer to void warranty over the driven fluid. Had a small amount of super super fine flakes in the fluid today. To my surprise, the car shifted better than I have experienced it. Started cold, not nibbles, no notichiness way easier to push into gear. Got on the highway, doing 60, with clutch to the floor I could down shift as fast as I want all the way down to 2nd with no resistance from the synchros trying to catch up to the speed they needed to be. I was floored at how smooth and easy it was. Only issue I could cause was 1st gear, if you were to down shift too low for your speed, that car would decel, tires would slip, car would decel, wash rinse repeat, until the tire speed was low enough for the engine RPM to be able to match it. All in a very quick manner. That is what I experience a sensation of when doing 30 in 4th and putting the into 1st gear quickly. I don’t know if it’s clutch related because RPMs don’t change, and it’s not as strong as I imagine it would be if the motor was being connected. Not quite as rugged. At this moment I’m pretty happy. I may keep putting new fluid in every 500-1000 miles until I can’t find any flakes or metal dust, put on a Barton shifter, and see how things go. Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Also the most miles I’ve put on a trans so far is 6000, I think it will get better with time. Where as prior, I was under the impression it would only get worse.
 

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Yeah I’m not sure whether to credit the positive outcome to solely clean fluid, or to the resurfacing the DRIVEN fluid could have done while in the trans, or to just continued breaking in.
 

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No it’s on it’s 3rd and I’m assuming it’s going to need a 4th. But I’m covered up until 60,000 miles. I feel like partly it’s not the parts fault. Originally 5th and reverse were stripped. That’s a given. Previous owner was racing it, tried to hit 5th, failed, and stripped it. I’ve torn up a couple that way myself in my younger days. Reverse synchro is 5-6 as well. Explained. 2nd trans, had zero break in time until I was hitting it over the head with 485 HP. Which I wasn’t told, and I wanted to make sure the unit I got wasn’t a bad one, so I thought i’d Test it. The had the car a month, I assumed the dealership broke it in. Procedures are very specific, you’d think with 5k on the line they wouldn’t rely on customers to do it.
Here’s the curve ball, which I am rather embarrassed to share... lol 3rd trans, current one, after 500 miles had ATF taken out, and RP ATF +4 put in, when filling the trans, I didn’t have a pump. I found a clean kitchen soap dispenser, of a soft metal variety, with a 4” neck, I was going to put a hose on it, but due to where the hole was at on the side, I couldn’t, rather than go to the store and buy the right tool, I carefully used the soap dispenser. After 3.7qt and what seemed like hours, I pulled the pump out, to find indentions, and scrapes on the side of it. I had already ordered the DRIVEN STF which was en route, so I figured a few miles over a day wouldn’t hurt for some soft metal flakes. But from leaving my driveway I suspected it contacted 2nd synchro because it was not right. Suppppppeeeeerrrrrr notchy. Hard to get into gear. I changed to drive and found a load of metal flakes come out... uh oh. Drove with driven which made huge improvement over RP but that could have been due to the gritty metal flakes in the fluid. I noticed when cold, the car was more difficult to get into gears. I had assumed the trans was soap at this point so I changed my trans fluid back to ATF +4 today when changing my engine oil as well, supertech. Walmart special. It’s a certified ATF+4 though. Did this because I didn’t want dealer to void warranty over the driven fluid. Had a small amount of super super fine flakes in the fluid today. To my surprise, the car shifted better than I have experienced it. Started cold, not nibbles, no notichiness way easier to push into gear. Got on the highway, doing 60, with clutch to the floor I could down shift as fast as I want all the way down to 2nd with no resistance from the synchros trying to catch up to the speed they needed to be. I was floored at how smooth and easy it was. Only issue I could cause was 1st gear, if you were to down shift too low for your speed, that car would decel, tires would slip, car would decel, wash rinse repeat, until the tire speed was low enough for the engine RPM to be able to match it. All in a very quick manner. That is what I experience a sensation of when doing 30 in 4th and putting the into 1st gear quickly. I don’t know if it’s clutch related because RPMs don’t change, and it’s not as strong as I imagine it would be if the motor was being connected. Not quite as rugged. At this moment I’m pretty happy. I may keep putting new fluid in every 500-1000 miles until I can’t find any flakes or metal dust, put on a Barton shifter, and see how things go. Stay tuned...
For future reference there's a drain plug on pass side above the rear x-member. I've supported the rear of trans and remove x-member to gibe a clear area to drain w/o the mess.

I wouldn't try to shift @ 30mph to 1st your putting a lot wear on the synchro. Since engine rpm would be pretty low and driveline isn't.

The metal flakes are odd. Never seen that in the three instances I've changed fluid. Done this in three different challengers
 
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