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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 RT and everytime I slow and go to brake the car's downshifting is terrible. It rev's up a couple of hundred rpm and then downshifts to the next gear. Plus I have not broken 14 MPG in local driving and I'm not an aggressive driver. Is there a way to have the car unlearn the shifting pattern and any other suggestions would be welcome.
 

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I know what you mean, I hate it too! It might be in my head but I believe I have seen a difference by holding the ESP button in for 10 seconds or so which turns traction control off. Once off I believe the car downshifts much less than normal. From what I have read other things could affect this like STP and holding the button for 10 seconds may or may not completely shut down the traction control assistance.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge about this on a 2011 RT can chime in here. I just got my car a few weeks ago. Good luck!
 

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My SRT8 does it too and sometimes feels like the tranny goes into free wheel mode giving the feeling of almost like it is slightly accelerating because all load was taken off. Freaked me out the first time it happened.
 

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Its done that way so that when you get back on the gas, you're in a lower gear for more ready acceleration.

Otherwise, you'd be hang out in a higher gear (slower accel) or bang down into a lower gear if you gave more throttle (makes for jerky operation). The acceleration would feel sluggish with delays in downshifts.

It makes for smoother driving, believe it or not.
 

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I guess being a product of the 60s, I really like the aggressive downshifting and compression braking of my SRT. I liked it even more before they reflashed it with some "drive-ability enhancement" firmware because people were carping about the aggressive and harsh downshifts.

The Jeep seems not nearly as aggressive on downshifting with braking so I have to use the autostick.

I'll admit the part where the compression braking lets off at times is a little weird.
 

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I like the hard downshifts, but it still catches me by surprise when it does so even under rather light braking conditions. I love the sound of my exhaust setup when I brake hard though... it really lets out a deep rumble as the RPM's go up on a downshift.
 

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I like the hard downshifts, but it still catches me by surprise when it does so even under rather light braking conditions. I love the sound of my exhaust setup when I brake hard though... it really lets out a deep rumble as the RPM's go up on a downshift.
I have to second that.
 

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It is all part of the breaking in process....My 2010 R/T used to surge or lurch (as I called it in some of my 1st posts on here), it calmed down quite a bit as the adaptaive transmission learned my habits. My mileage SUCKED until about 1k miles. Now I get between 26-29 on the road and about 18 in town. I Auto-stick about 50% of the time in town and never on the hwy. It will get better.
 

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I agree also, I love the sound the exhaust makes when I slow down, I disabled the MDS and it just purrs when she comes down. Everyone I take for a ride agrees, it sounds bad azz...
 

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That's what I do. start in 1, rev to about 3000 rapidly, shift to 2 to about 3000 rpm and put it in drive. Any time you feel or hear a drone (like starting up a hill or incline) put it into 5 right away then put back into D when cresting the hill.
Yes, your exhausts will sound better with a couple thousand more miles on it. I recently had the Predator tune which included the firmness of shift points and I can tell a difference when it down shifts in auto but nothing I can't live with - esp when I accelerate = WOW factor kicks in!!
 

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i have an 2009 r/t automatic. i recently brought it in for service cause i thought there was something wrong with the downshifting. anybody else with a 2009 have this problem or is this normal on all of these cars?
 

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If you'd like to reset the adaptives, usually you can pull the pcm fuse out, go to start the engine (it wont engage the starter) and hold it in the "crank" position for about 20 seconds. A chime should confirm the reset has been done. This worked on the dodge rams, so it should translate. If your starter engages though, I'd definitely not hold it there. The battery method is to unhook both positive and negative and touch them together (while not having anything hooked to the battery). It completes the circuit and drains any leftover voltage in the system. Lastly, just removing the negative and letting it sit for an hour or two will usually have the same effect. Then the pcm thinks it's being turned on for the first time. All methods will kill all your radio presets, but wont affect any pcm flashes (such as diablo) which are written to the memory.

I don't know if that's really what you need or not, but those are the methods I've learned over the years with dodge products.
 

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On freeways, it helps keep the Hemi in rpm range to re-accelerate to speed up. I'm getting used to it and am glad they engineered it that way.
 
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