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Discussion Starter #1
Someone posted a thread on here about swapping a 160 amp alternator with a 220 amp one on a Challenger R/T with a 5.7.
One person posted that you'd have to get the computer reprogrammed.
So what conclusion did everyone come to? Because since I got the recall notice for mine, I'm wanting to upgrade my alternator while it's being replaced.
 

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2014 Shaker Boosted 392 Stroker M6
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I started that thread, and I'm still waiting to hear from the dealership if that swap can be done. BTW, I learned that the 160 amp alternator is in the SXTs and the R/Ts have 180 amp alternators.
 

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I started that thread, and I'm still waiting to hear from the dealership if that swap can be done. BTW, I learned that the 160 amp alternator is in the SXTs and the R/Ts have 180 amp alternators.
According to Mopar parts, the alternator for a 2015 5.7 R/T & R/T+ is 04801866ac which is a 160amp. Rockauto shows a 180 and 160 for the 5.7. When I search under same year Scat Pack it calls out 04801834ab which I believe is 220amp and it states it is also for 5.7 without heated mirrors.

My build sheet for 2015 R/T+ says 160amp and I have heated everything...very confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I started that thread, and I'm still waiting to hear from the dealership if that swap can be done. BTW, I learned that the 160 amp alternator is in the SXTs and the R/Ts have 180 amp alternators.
Let us know if you find out anything. My dealership here wouldn't even try to find out.

According to Mopar parts, the alternator for a 2015 5.7 R/T & R/T+ is 04801866ac which is a 160amp. Rockauto shows a 180 and 160 for the 5.7. When I search under same year Scat Pack it calls out 04801834ab which I believe is 220amp and it states it is also for 5.7 without heated mirrors.

My build sheet for 2015 R/T+ says 160amp and I have heated everything...very confusing.
Yeah, I agree.
 

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What are the chances that the diodes in the SRT alternator are more robust than those in the R/T alternators, which seem to be the point of failure?
The SRT's don't use Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering, so there would be no need to design it to resist the thermal fatigue failure due to the cyclical loads induced by that system.
So even if it would be a direct bolt in otherwise, it may not solve the recall problem, and could end up being problematic in itself.

Hopefully answers will be coming, because I'd pay the costs myself if it meant a solid fix and not having to wait for recall parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What are the chances that the diodes in the SRT alternator are more robust than those in the R/T alternators, which seem to be the point of failure?
The SRT's don't use Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering, so there would be no need to design it to resist the thermal fatigue failure due to the cyclical loads induced by that system.
So even if it would be a direct bolt in otherwise, it may not solve the recall problem, and could end up being problematic in itself.

Hopefully answers will be coming, because I'd pay the costs myself if it meant a solid fix and not having to wait for recall parts.
I would also. Hell, I'd buy the alternator from Rockauto.com and put it on myself if it'll work.

I also wonder how true it is that the PCM has to be reprogrammed for a higher amperage alternator?

There are only 2 connections, one to the battery:
Mopar Connection Repair Kit

the other to voltage sense & field control:
Mopar Connection Repair Kit
I'm waiting to get an answer on that myself. I can't see where you'd need to though. Just doesn't make sense.
 

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I would also. Hell, I'd buy the alternator from Rockauto.com and put it on myself if it'll work.
My dealership tried that on their third attempt to solve the problem, although I don't know where they got the aftermarket alternator. It didn't fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok guys. Been doing some research. I found out that all of the Challengers 2015 and newer except the Hellcat had electric power steering, and some came with the 220 amp alternator. So I'm gonna get either the 220 amp or the 180.
So can someone break down the whole alternator clutch pulley thing? The 220s have them. I'm thinking that I'm gonna get the tool to remove it and swap it out.
But I'm about to do something come spring, because I'm hearing mid '18 before the recall alternators become available, and I'm not trying to wait that long.
 

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Ok guys. Been doing some research. I found out that all of the Challengers 2015 and newer except the Hellcat had electric power steering, and some came with the 220 amp alternator. So I'm gonna get either the 220 amp or the 180.
So can someone break down the whole alternator clutch pulley thing? The 220s have them. I'm thinking that I'm gonna get the tool to remove it and swap it out.
But I'm about to do something come spring, because I'm hearing mid '18 before the recall alternators become available, and I'm not trying to wait that long.
My 2015 RT+ has electric steering (no pump driven off serpentine) and only a 160 amp alternator per window sticker. I also have heated/vented seats, heated steering wheel, and sun roof. My alternator is flaky sometimes as the voltage is around low 13V some times and stays there unless I restart the car, then it hits hit 13V, low 14V.

Wait so the 220 amp has an electronic clutch like an AC compressor? Below is a 220amp alternator and the pic shows a normal pulley...although it is just a cartoon.

https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/o...5PTIwMTYmdD1zcnQtaGVsbGNhdCZlPTYtMmwtdjgtZ2Fz

Here's an actual image. Hard to tell if that is a bearing on the pulley or just part of the pulley?
https://images.wrenchead.com/Smartpages/partinfo_resize/MPB/04801834AB-0-ANG.JPG

Huh, I guess it is a clutch pulley. Is it mechanical or electrically controlled?
https://alternator.dvautoparts.com/discount-store/new-alternator-clutch-pulley-w-jrjqpplmmnjm
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My 2015 RT+ has electric steering (no pump driven off serpentine) and only a 160 amp alternator per window sticker. I also have heated/vented seats, heated steering wheel, and sun roof. My alternator is flaky sometimes as the voltage is around low 13V some times and stays there unless I restart the car, then it hits hit 13V, low 14V.

Wait so the 220 amp has an electronic clutch like an AC compressor? Below is a 220amp alternator and the pic shows a normal pulley...although it is just a cartoon.

https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/o...5PTIwMTYmdD1zcnQtaGVsbGNhdCZlPTYtMmwtdjgtZ2Fz

Here's an actual image. Hard to tell if that is a bearing on the pulley or just part of the pulley?
https://images.wrenchead.com/Smartpages/partinfo_resize/MPB/04801834AB-0-ANG.JPG

Huh, I guess it is a clutch pulley. Is it mechanical or electrically controlled?
https://alternator.dvautoparts.com/discount-store/new-alternator-clutch-pulley-w-jrjqpplmmnjm

The clutch is mechanical. And the 220 amp alternator was offered on the Scat Pack 6.4's, but the mounting points and connections are the same, so I'm gonna go for it.
And after seeing the videos, I'll probably keep the clutch on the alternator. But I am gonna put that alternator on.
 

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The clutch is mechanical. And the 220 amp alternator was offered on the Scat Pack 6.4's, but the mounting points and connections are the same, so I'm gonna go for it.
And after seeing the videos, I'll probably keep the clutch on the alternator. But I am gonna put that alternator on.
Good luck. Please let us know your results with the 220 amp alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It'll be awhile, because I have the car stored until Spring, so I probably won't do it until then. But I'll keep everyone posted when I do it.
 

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Alternator clutches:

I don't know about the exact issues on our cars but here is what I do know.

When an engine is idling, the pulley is not moving at a steady, smooth speed. It speeds up and slows down with every compression and power stroke. This causes alot of belt wear on the HMMWV's we have. When we upgraded from a 60 amp alternator (which had a reputation for having the properly adjusted belt whipping in a frenzy at idle) driven by 2 V belts to a 220 amp serpentine belt driven alternator, they included an over-running clutch. This ensures that during those parts of the cycle when the engine is slowing down, the rotor is not pulling the belts in opposition of its normal driven direction. They are simple one way, over running clutches, not clutches that disengage of some reason. I found, while reading an industry magazine, that this same technology has found its way into several European cars and strongly suspect that this is what they are talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alternator clutches:

I don't know about the exact issues on our cars but here is what I do know.

When an engine is idling, the pulley is not moving at a steady, smooth speed. It speeds up and slows down with every compression and power stroke. This causes alot of belt wear on the HMMWV's we have. When we upgraded from a 60 amp alternator (which had a reputation for having the properly adjusted belt whipping in a frenzy at idle) driven by 2 V belts to a 220 amp serpentine belt driven alternator, they included an over-running clutch. This ensures that during those parts of the cycle when the engine is slowing down, the rotor is not pulling the belts in opposition of its normal driven direction. They are simple one way, over running clutches, not clutches that disengage of some reason. I found, while reading an industry magazine, that this same technology has found its way into several European cars and strongly suspect that this is what they are talking about.
I read that same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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Of course, will a 220A alternator even respond to the precise problem? Haven't I read somewhere that higher amp rated alternators don't necessarily crank out those extra amps at low RPM, and may even have lower output at idle? And if it was an answer, why wouldn't ChryCo simply order replacement of 180A units with 220A units that were already in the pipeline? That would seem cheaper than waiting for a whole new run of special 180A "recall" units? I'm on board for going 220A simply because I believe in going HD whenever possible, but like everybody else here I would like to hear somebody simply say: "Yes, I did it and a 220A unit will bolt right in and work fine." Has anyone?
 
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