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Discussion Starter #1
I have not completely made up my mind yet and when I do I will post in the for sale section...

When I bought it nine months ago I really wanted an SRT but I didn't want to touch my savings or have a car payment so I bought a car for the exact amount of money that I sold my hot rod for...

I have decided that maybe I can live with a small car payment so I am thinking I might want to upgrade...

Convince me otherwise...

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BEFORE AND AFTER
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Discussion Starter #5
Like I said...I bought it 9 months ago and it's a 2015...
I have a grand total of 28,400 in it...
Paid 27k out the door and put 1000 in it but also just put 4 new Hankooks on it...
It will turn over to 40k miles the next time I drive it...
I own it outright...
 

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That's a good looking car...but only you can decide if you must have 485 HP for getting on freeway on ramps ;)

A Guy
 

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Do it. The 6.4 is worlds away from the 5.7 in performance. You won't regret it.
 

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Like I said...I bought it 9 months ago and it's a 2015...
I have a grand total of 28,400 in it...
Paid 27k out the door and put 1000 in it but also just put 4 new Hankooks on it...
It will turn over to 40k miles the next time I drive it...
I own it outright...
Even though you bought the car used the depreciation will not be pretty.

KBB indicates the car's value to be between $18,148 to $20709. Within a 150 mile radius to my location in norther CA there were 75 cars available.

Bought the car 9 months ago and have $28K in it. If the above value has any basis in reality depreciation could end up being approx. $1K per month of ownership.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Clean retail in my zip code says 23,850...
I do realize that mods don't necessarily add to value but it has Stage One lowering springs and 4 new Hankook tires last month and other stuff like catch can and valve covers...
Also note that 28k includes sales tax and all fees (hence "out the door") $1000 in add on's and tires a couple weeks ago for $400...

 

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Besides the question of money lost, perhaps a more important question to ask is if the upgrade is worth what it would cost. If you can sell for $24,000, a used $34,000 SP or SRT is going to costs you $37,500 after taxes and fees, and the cost to upgrade is over $13,000. Is it worth that to you to gain the extra 100-110 HP? Don’t ignore the total cost just because the monthly payment is only $200 or something.

There are certainly other things to gain besides the HP, like better brakes, suspension, guessing maybe the 8.4 screen with it’s associated pluses, maybe a better interior. Some might not be a plus (in my mind), like the potential maintenance costs of things like the multi mode suspension and 6 piston brakes of the SRT after 2015.

I understand the dilemma as I have thought down this road myself. Difference is, I still owe on mine so the monthly cost swing is fairly high for me. The thing that keeps tripping me up is the “hidden” cost of taxes and fees. It is easy to look at the asking price and thing I might be able to swing that, but when I look at the fees and taxes and see the additional $2k to $4k it adds, it becomes much less attractive.
 

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Not certain on this, but I think that in Washington state, the value of a trade-in reduces the taxed amount when buying a car. So, if your state is similar, and you decide it is worth the cost to upgrade, it might save you some money to trade the car instead of selling it outright. If haven’t done the math to see if it actually pencils out, though. Just a thought.
 

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Clean retail in my zip code says 23,850...
I do realize that mods don't necessarily add to value but it has Stage One lowering springs and 4 new Hankook tires last month and other stuff like catch can and valve covers...
Also note that 28k includes sales tax and all fees (hence "out the door") $1000 in add on's and tires a couple weeks ago for $400...

Retail is the price one might expect to pay for a car offered by a dealer. Privately sold vehicles almost always sell for less.

Between you and me when I go shopping for a used car I start at around its trade in/whole sale value. That is what the owner would (probably) get if he just traded it in or sold it straight up to a dealer.

But me is not everybody. If you do offer it up I hope you get a good price.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Besides the question of money lost, perhaps a more important question to ask is if the upgrade is worth what it would cost. If you can sell for $24,000, a used $34,000 SP or SRT is going to costs you $37,500 after taxes and fees, and the cost to upgrade is over $13,000. Is it worth that to you to gain the extra 100-110 HP? Don’t ignore the total cost just because the monthly payment is only $200 or something.

There are certainly other things to gain besides the HP, like better brakes, suspension, guessing maybe the 8.4 screen with it’s associated pluses, maybe a better interior. Some might not be a plus (in my mind), like the potential maintenance costs of things like the multi mode suspension and 6 piston brakes of the SRT after 2015.

I understand the dilemma as I have thought down this road myself. Difference is, I still owe on mine so the monthly cost swing is fairly high for me. The thing that keeps tripping me up is the “hidden” cost of taxes and fees. It is easy to look at the asking price and thing I might be able to swing that, but when I look at the fees and taxes and see the additional $2k to $4k it adds, it becomes much less attractive.
Well put...
One thing missing there tho is the newer SRT would have a lot less miles...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not certain on this, but I think that in Washington state, the value of a trade-in reduces the taxed amount when buying a car. So, if your state is similar, and you decide it is worth the cost to upgrade, it might save you some money to trade the car instead of selling it outright. If haven’t done the math to see if it actually pencils out, though. Just a thought.
Good point...because I never trade in...I always sell my car and pay cash...
Definitely something to think about...
 

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Sometimes you just gotta take your "lumps"........ I'm a HUGE ADVOCATE for the idea of not "cheaping out" when you buy a car.

Regret sucks when you realize you should have bought something else........but it gets really PAINFUL when you recognize how much it'll cost to fix the issue.

Only YOU know where your priorities are and what you can comfortably spend.

All any of us can offer up is opinion of how we approach things.

For me?

The Challenger in my Garage is a "TOY".......it was paid for outright. I would never make payments on a toy (again that's just me)........nor would I allow it to de-rail the FAR MORE IMPORTANT things in my finances and life.

What you're struggling with right now and attempting to resolve.......is no surprise. It's a dilemma that comes along as NO ACCIDENT.

It's entirely occurring by deliberate effort on the part of the car companies in general.

Your emotions are being "played" to.

What you need to do, IMO......... is do your very best to remove the emotion as completely as you can.

A pen, paper and a list of pros and cons.

What will this switch cost you and is it worth it?

Meanwhile you should also be mindful of the idea that the car companies will NEVER STOP their effort to get you out of the car you're driving now and into something they are selling.

Let your emotions dictate any of this and I can assure you the money will just fly away......even for people who can easily afford to waste the extra $ and not hurt their life in general it can be awfully wasteful.

If you do choose to make a switch.......you probably want to get it right and that leads to a question you should ask before you make the expensive switch, "Why is a 485HP 392 going to be able to hold my emotions in check when the 5.7 couldn't vs the next shiny thing Detroit offers up tomorrow?"
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sometimes you just gotta take your "lumps"........ I'm a HUGE ADVOCATE for the idea of not "cheaping out" when you buy a car.

Regret sucks when you realize you should have bought something else........but it gets really PAINFUL when you recognize how much it'll cost to fix the issue.

Only YOU know where your priorities are and what you can comfortably spend.

All any of us can offer up is opinion of how we approach things.

For me?

The Challenger in my Garage is a "TOY".......it was paid for outright. I would never make payments on a toy (again that's just me)........nor would I allow it to de-rail the FAR MORE IMPORTANT things in my finances and life.

What you're struggling with right now and attempting to resolve.......is no surprise. It's a dilemma that comes along as NO ACCIDENT.

It's entirely occurring by deliberate effort on the part of the car companies in general.

Your emotions are being "played" to.

What you need to do, IMO......... is do your very best to remove the emotion as completely as you can.

A pen, paper and a list of pros and cons.

What will this switch cost you and is it worth it?

Meanwhile you should also be mindful of the idea that the car companies will NEVER STOP their effort to get you out of the car you're driving now and into something they are selling.

Let your emotions dictate any of this and I can assure you the money will just fly away......even for people who can easily afford to waste the extra $ and not hurt their life in general it can be awfully wasteful.

If you do choose to make a switch.......you probably want to get it right and that leads to a question you should ask before you make the expensive switch, "Why is a 485HP 392 going to be able to hold my emotions in check when the 5.7 couldn't vs the next shiny thing Detroit offers up tomorrow?"
Great advise! thanx :)
 

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Find out the difference in price between what you will get for that and a Scat/SRT. Since this car is paid off, save that payment for the amount of time you would be making it if you "upgrade". Take that chunk of cash and do something with it, even if it is supercharge the car you have.
 
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