Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I want a challenger that has a manual tranny, 6 cyclinder, not sure what model but under 22K. What are your recommendations, should I purchase an extended warranty? This will be my daily driver and only car. I want something fun to drive but also need reliability as I am single and would have no other car to drive in case of repairs. Please advise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
Most likely you will be searching in pre-2015 SXT models to stay under that price point.
Thats not to say you cant find a screaming deal on something newer, this time of year by way of a motivated seller or a dealer looking to clear inventory before end of the year. In general though, anything 2015 & newer, especially in a GT (V6 AWD) is going to exceed your $22k cut off, especially after taxes & fees.
You can certainly find an R/T and even a few SRT's for that price if you are willing to look at older pre-15 models with a bit more use/miles. These would have V8's however, but this would let you get into a manual trans and the performance of the V8.
Reliability is really a factor of how the car was treated & maintained by its previous owner(s)
Good luck.
 

·
Super Moderator
2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
Joined
·
14,789 Posts
Looks like a lot of 2015 SXT for under $20k


A Guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
must be my local area is pricing them a bit high ( no surprise), not seeing much under $24k-$25k. ebay shows similarly, but it is a good time to score a good deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
I want a challenger that has a manual tranny, 6 cyclinder, not sure what model but under 22K. What are your recommendations, should I purchase an extended warranty? This will be my daily driver and only car. I want something fun to drive but also need reliability as I am single and would have no other car to drive in case of repairs. Please advise.
An extended warranty might be of some value. Depends upon the quality of the warranty, that is who stands behind it, and what it costs and what it covers and doesn't cover.

For what it covers and doesn't cover read the fine print. The brochure always paints the warranty in a good light but the fine print is what is important.

Also, if you can talk with the techs where you will have the car serviced/worked on about their experience with the warranty company. Techs I have talked to about extended warranties tell me invariably when there is a claim the warranty company seeks to find a reason to not allow the claim. This is in some ways understandable for there are enough posts on these forums by owners who abuse/misuse/mod their cars and then when something goes wrong seek to have someone else pay for their bad decisions.

But you want a company that absent clear justification for not honoring a claim honors it promptly.

You want to as best you can pick a good used car. To help you with your used car check out let me paste something you might find of value:
-----------------------------

Used Dodge Challenger check out:

My general advice is to visit the used car cold, open the hood and check the oil level, leaving the hood open. Give the other vital fluid levels a visual check at least to ensure none are low. If vital fluids are low this could be a warning flag.

In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.

Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.

If available, call up the Performance Pages app and view coolant and oil temperature and pressure and battery voltage. You want these displayed as you get first a test ride then have a test drive.

Let the engine idle and get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires. Ideally they should be factory sanctioned tires and in good condition. Check the brakes, look at the rotors for signs of damage/excessive wear. A lip around the rotor outer diameter is a sign of rotor wear.

Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. At the front carefully check the radiator fasteners for any signs of wrenching.

After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.

While a passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.

With an automatic I recommend having the driver do a k-turn with the engine/transmission cold to see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.

And with the engine/transmission now up to temperature you do the k-turn to once again see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

The pre test ride/drive idle time coupled with the 15 mile test ride and then 15 mile test drive serve -- among other things -- to have the engine run nearly an hour. This gets the engine and drive train up to operating temperature.

Leaks are more active when things are warm.

Also, it gives the engine controller time to run through its readiness monitor checks. If it finds a problem it will turn on the CEL and log an error code.

(A sophisticated used car buyer will have an OBD2 code reader and after the test drive while the engine is still running using the OBD2 tool query the engine controller for any active/pending/permanent error codes, and the status of the readiness monitors. Now in some cases not all readiness monitors are set to complete. This can be due to the test ride/drive not adhering to the drive cycle most conducive to getting the engine controller through its readiness monitor test phase.)

After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.

You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars generally look good on the lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.

Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention. Unless the seller can supply paper work the services are current or you can run the VIN through a Dodge dealer and get a list of services budget for various services that are due.

As I touched upon above, tires should be in good condition but if not if the tires are worn unevenly budget for an alignment assuming wear is not severe enough to suspect the car's bent. In this case you don't want an alignment you want to walk away from the car.

Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I want a challenger that has a manual tranny, 6 cyclinder, not sure what model but under 22K. What are your recommendations, should I purchase an extended warranty? This will be my daily driver and only car. I want something fun to drive but also need reliability as I am single and would have no other car to drive in case of repairs. Please advise.
I've never seen a V6, manual challenger, but I bought this 2015 RT Plus 5.7L with a manual transmission six weeks ago and it's been nothing short of amazing. The car had 79,000 miles on it and I was able to get the purchase price down to $19,200 because it needed new tires which I bought the day after I got the car home.

After I agreed to buy the car, the dealer informed me that the 2015 Chryslers were the LAST model years that came with a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Mine won't expire for a full year after my purchase.

It's not my daily driver, but it looks, feels and smells like new, and 2,000 miles later I'm really enjoying this purchase.

I'd recommend looking at the 2015s for the longer power train warranties or a CPO. You might also set up a search engine on Car Gurus, ebay and other sites that will email you when the car you're looking for hits the market and be willing to travel a bit to get it. Fortunately, mine was less than 200 miles away.

Good Luck!


2015 Challenger Ad.PNG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
Concerning the title of your thread all I can say is my 2016 SXT Plus V6 has been extremely reliable.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
One and done, plus if you ask the internet if you should buy a car, you're probably not buying a car. But if they really are considering a Challenger, good luck.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top