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I recently bought a new 2017 ta + I justified the price b/c of the warranty
(should have got a used srt8)
after 6 months in the car im already looking to start adding pieces.
im not really great at the build process since this is the first nice car ive ever had so looking for some help.




from everything ive read my plans as of now are (starting with things I could do relatively easy to way out of my league)
performance throttle body
diablo sport tuner.
mid muffler delete
cam swap (after watching a lot of videos im pretty sure I fell in love with sound of the cam swaped 5.7)

then maybe get into the world of forced induction .


any words of wisdom, im sure there are at least 100 similar posts to this but I was having trouble finding them. so links would be great!








also this is my first real post on this site so sorry in advance if its in the wrong place.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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My word of wisdom is don't. Leave the car alone. While you can add pieces the chances are high the car will be less than sum of its added parts, not more.

Besides this you will almost certainly never ever get out of the car what you put in. Imagine taking what you would spend and just throwing that amount of money to the wind and watching it blow away.

Now I have to say I have some car mod'ing in my past. So I speak from experience and more years of hind sight than I care to count.

I took a perfectly good albeit cheap early Datsun 510 coupe and removed sound deadening, rear seats, relocated the battery to the rear, added an external electric fuel pump, a Holley fuel pressure regulator, rebuild the engine and used the 240Z high(er) compression pistons, an Isky cam, added dual side draft two barrel Weber carbs, better ignition, added a rear sway bar and made both front and rear solid sway bar bushing holders.

Sure the car ran better and handled a bit better, and the few times I auto-crossed it I appreciated this -- but the mod's put me in a class where I was completely outclassed at both the car level and driver level. I spent back then what would be a you know what load of money and after a few years due to my situation I sold the car to buy a pick up truck to use for my new business. I got none of the money back I had spent on the car. I did I think get a good price simply because at that time the car was becoming a bit of a collectible -- just a bit -- and sold the car for more than half of what I had paid for it -- used with 5K miles -- some years earlier.

In hindsight I wish I had left the car alone, and instead invested the money in say the stock market. I wish instead of spending hours in the garage and under the car I had instead gone back to college and worked towards a degree in some technology field -- at the time I lived in San Jose CA what proved to be the "heart" of Silicon Valley. (As it turned out later I did end up going back to school and getting a good job in the tech industry and nearly 30 years later I have done very very well. But I would have started doing well much earlier had I been smarter.)

Since the Datsun I have left my cars stock. As a result they are about as problem free as they can be, reliable, deliver good gas mileage -- but since then and to this day I still buy/drive rather high performance cars: V8 Mustang, Z28 Camaro, Boxster, GTO, Cayman S, Porsche Turbo, and more recently Dodge R/T Scat Pack, then a Hellcat (while my commuter is a 2018 Mini JCW).

I enjoy the relative comfort of my cars, the A/C, and the performance. When it comes time to move on my used cars are not hard to sell but often due to the miles -- even though in good condition -- don't bring top dollar they still sell for a good price, on par with their age and miles.

Ever since the mid 1980's I've been putting money away in first IRA's then employer 401(k) plans and this has worked out very well for me.

Could have started earlier: Back in 1976 I bought a new Harley Davidson Sportster. Grew up near the local H-D shop and wanted a H-D so bad... Finally managed my "dream". What a nightmare. What a piece of junk. But I sold it a year later with 6K miles and bad rings -- even though I had serviced it to better than what the factory recommended -- crummy rings were the norm then -- for what I paid for it new. Had I been smarter I would have realized what this meant and taken the $2600 and bought H-D stock. Or Microsoft stock. Or Intel stock. Or probably a mix of all of the these.

You have a nice car. With a warranty. Leave the car stock. Service the car properly and enjoy it relatively trouble free for thousands and thousands of miles and many many years. Save, better yet, invest the money you want to spend on mod's and enjoy the increase in wealth as the years go by.
 

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I recently bought a new 2017 ta + I justified the price b/c of the warranty
(should have got a used srt8)
after 6 months in the car im already looking to start adding pieces.
im not really great at the build process since this is the first nice car ive ever had so looking for some help.




from everything ive read my plans as of now are (starting with things I could do relatively easy to way out of my league)
performance throttle body
diablo sport tuner.
mid muffler delete
cam swap (after watching a lot of videos im pretty sure I fell in love with sound of the cam swaped 5.7)

then maybe get into the world of forced induction .


any words of wisdom, im sure there are at least 100 similar posts to this but I was having trouble finding them. so links would be great!








also this is my first real post on this site so sorry in advance if its in the wrong place.


Welcome to the site and congrats on the purchase of your T/A. For starters only the cam upgrade will void your warranty. That is if your dealership is very aggressive with investigating it. Here in MD I have a very performance friendly dealership so I’ve still be able to get my car serviced under warranty even with a cam swap. That being said everyplace is different. All of the other mods are good starting points. Start there and see where you want to go. With respect to a cam up grade for sound. You may want to think about that. The cost of a cam upgrade is high just to get a certain sound. You can come close with muffler deletes and headers for sound quality. Of coarse these are just my thoughts. It’s your car and money do with them what you want. I can tell you once you start down the path of modifying it’s a very slippery steep slope. Supercharging at the end of the day will surely yield the largest smile factor, but it’s extremely expensive and you need to dial your tune in. No matter what you decide Have fun and enjoy your ride.


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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Here are some links

a little dated but gives you an idea of HP advice
http://www.challengertalk.com/forum...epower-advice-needed-31529/?31529=#post447647

shows dyno numbers for 5.7 power adders
http://www.challengertalk.com/forum...dyno-numbers-5-7l-623426/?623426=#post7954402

one example of cost comparisons between NA and FI.
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f175/horsepower-advice-166602/index2.html?166602=#post2204506

Also reach out to some of our vendors or you can wait for them to chime in. Figure out what HP numbers, driveability (great street manners or all out drag) and budget and work from there.

Oh and welcome to the forum!!
 

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My word of wisdom is don't. Leave the car alone. While you can add pieces the chances are high the car will be less than sum of its added parts, not more.

Besides this you will almost certainly never ever get out of the car what you put in. Imagine taking what you would spend and just throwing that amount of money to the wind and watching it blow away.

Now I have to say I have some car mod'ing in my past. So I speak from experience and more years of hind sight than I care to count.

I took a perfectly good albeit cheap early Datsun 510 coupe and removed sound deadening, rear seats, relocated the battery to the rear, added an external electric fuel pump, a Holley fuel pressure regulator, rebuild the engine and used the 240Z high(er) compression pistons, an Isky cam, added dual side draft two barrel Weber carbs, better ignition, added a rear sway bar and made both front and rear solid sway bar bushing holders.

Sure the car ran better and handled a bit better, and the few times I auto-crossed it I appreciated this -- but the mod's put me in a class where I was completely outclassed at both the car level and driver level. I spent back then what would be a you know what load of money and after a few years due to my situation I sold the car to buy a pick up truck to use for my new business. I got none of the money back I had spent on the car. I did I think get a good price simply because at that time the car was becoming a bit of a collectible -- just a bit -- and sold the car for more than half of what I had paid for it -- used with 5K miles -- some years earlier.

In hindsight I wish I had left the car alone, and instead invested the money in say the stock market. I wish instead of spending hours in the garage and under the car I had instead gone back to college and worked towards a degree in some technology field -- at the time I lived in San Jose CA what proved to be the "heart" of Silicon Valley. (As it turned out later I did end up going back to school and getting a good job in the tech industry and nearly 30 years later I have done very very well. But I would have started doing well much earlier had I been smarter.)

Since the Datsun I have left my cars stock. As a result they are about as problem free as they can be, reliable, deliver good gas mileage -- but since then and to this day I still buy/drive rather high performance cars: V8 Mustang, Z28 Camaro, Boxster, GTO, Cayman S, Porsche Turbo, and more recently Dodge R/T Scat Pack, then a Hellcat (while my commuter is a 2018 Mini JCW).

I enjoy the relative comfort of my cars, the A/C, and the performance. When it comes time to move on my used cars are not hard to sell but often due to the miles -- even though in good condition -- don't bring top dollar they still sell for a good price, on par with their age and miles.

Ever since the mid 1980's I've been putting money away in first IRA's then employer 401(k) plans and this has worked out very well for me.

Could have started earlier: Back in 1976 I bought a new Harley Davidson Sportster. Grew up near the local H-D shop and wanted a H-D so bad... Finally managed my "dream". What a nightmare. What a piece of junk. But I sold it a year later with 6K miles and bad rings -- even though I had serviced it to better than what the factory recommended -- crummy rings were the norm then -- for what I paid for it new. Had I been smarter I would have realized what this meant and taken the $2600 and bought H-D stock. Or Microsoft stock. Or Intel stock. Or probably a mix of all of the these.

You have a nice car. With a warranty. Leave the car stock. Service the car properly and enjoy it relatively trouble free for thousands and thousands of miles and many many years. Save, better yet, invest the money you want to spend on mod's and enjoy the increase in wealth as the years go by.


Well that’s just the saddest comment I’ve read. I assume nobody expects to get back what they put in , I know I don’t, but the journey itself is priceless. That’s why we’re all here. Hot rodding , not just driving a cool car.

OP , congrats on the new ride. A good kick in the pants without voiding warranty is a new rear. If you can hunt down a 3.70 , it’ll add a hell of a fun factor. It’s a very easy swap , and you can stay oem. It will probably help a bit with low end should you decide to go with a cam later down the road. Tons of great info on the forums , don’t be intimidated by the naysayers. Just research and do things in the proper order. Good luck.


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There are some very good points made by the commenter and I don’t want to take anything away from what he is saying. I’ll just say this. I have a great tech job and it doesn’t compare to the feelings I get when I’ve completed a mod on my Challenger or Dakota. Especially if that mod contributes Toto faster E/T’s at the track for me. There’s room in this hobby for every sort of enthusiast. Just figure out what kind you want to be and enjoy.


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Well that’s just the saddest comment I’ve read. I assume nobody expects to get back what they put in , I know I don’t, but the journey itself is priceless. That’s why we’re all here. Hot rodding , not just driving a cool car.

OP , congrats on the new ride. A good kick in the pants without voiding warranty is a new rear. If you can hunt down a 3.70 , it’ll add a hell of a fun factor. It’s a very easy swap , and you can stay oem. It will probably help a bit with low end should you decide to go with a cam later down the road. Tons of great info on the forums , don’t be intimidated by the naysayers. Just research and do things in the proper order. Good luck.


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Well, I can't say my mod'ing experience was totally a waste. I became rather good at working on cars and for years did all my car servicing and did some for family, so there's that benefit. But it was an expensive experience, what with all the money I spent on hardware, tools and so on. I would have been better off enrolling in a auto mechanics class at the local community college. I would have gotten professional training -- although I had some auto mechanic friends at the time who actually gave me good advice and counsel and guidance -- and had access to a better set of tools and equipment with which to use to work on my car.

I can also certainly say the experience is not priceless. Except for a dimming memory of that time I have nothing really to show for it other than my experience which perhaps I can use to dissuade someone from going down the same path I did.
 

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I get a great deal of satisfaction from my tech job. To keep working when I no longer need to work I think says something about how much satisfaction I get from the job, to say nothing of the money.

But I noticed the more involved the longer I worked in the tech industry the less enjoyment I got out of working on my own cars and the more I relished the time I spent in them behind the wheel. I really enjoy my 30 mile work commute as I get to spend around an hour or more a day driving one of my cars. And time permitting I really enjoy a week or two off on a long road trip. 'course recently project deadlines have prevented me from taking a week or two off but soon. While I spend a good amount of time in the car behind the wheel, I spend no time in the engine compartment or under the car.
 

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The OP didn't put any restrictions on who can post. If he had asked only those that would encourage him to modify his new car possibly voiding his car's warranty reply then I would have not bothered.
Don't sweat it man. There are days where I tell myself...why didn't I just buy a hell cat instead of modding...and there are days like today where I can't wait to get home to install my fuel pressure gauge...and then there are other days where my wife says...why did you buy that money pit of a jet boat. :browsmiley:
 

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I certainly have my days. When I have to crawl under the car for hours to fix or refix issues that I had hoped were correct. All that being said I love the fact that I paid way less than a Hellcat cost and my car performs on par with one. To each their own. There is a place in this hobby for everyone.


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First, congrats on the car! Always loved the look of the T/A.

Second, while there’s always the naysayers on mods... if you’re planning on keeping the car around for 10+ years... who cares at that point if the money doesn’t come back? How many people are wishing now tat they could have hung on to the muscle cars of yesteryear? If it’s paid off, and it’s around... then screw the trade in, because that’s just going to be a cycle of missing the experience.

Rant off.

Can I suggest, that if you’re looking at first mods that won’t cause warranty issues, that the bushings, tires, wheels, differential brace, and strut tower braces might be more enjoyable overall than modding the engine?

Got a lot of power as it is. Getting it to the ground is a sweetened experience, as is shutting people up that insist that “your boat can’t turn.”

I would also suggest, that if you’re going to get into the engine deep, the first line there is to have some head studs on standby. Throttle body, cool- at some point for some of the other work, the heads are coming off, and them be some ‘spensive ancillary parts costs.

Just did a blower- would have spent the same time and money to stroke it, and should have probably done that and the fuel system first instead of monkeying around with boost. If I could do it over, I would, as FI is touch and go (pun intended) with these without a lot of add-on work (pistons, rods, fuel, drivetrain, w/m in my case because of terrible octane locally, etc.) A stroker at 426/9.5 compression and a cam is a tempting do-over retrospective for me, and supports a blower later.


In any case, if you have the rim, and it’s an option... try a solid tire for the summer in the next larger size. Solid warranty safe mod for the summer that will make the grin even bigger!:grin2: Hope you enjoy the car!

Cheers,

Chuck
 

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I recently bought a new 2017 ta + I justified the price b/c of the warranty
(should have got a used srt8)
after 6 months in the car im already looking to start adding pieces.
im not really great at the build process since this is the first nice car ive ever had so looking for some help.

from everything ive read my plans as of now are (starting with things I could do relatively easy to way out of my league)
performance throttle body
diablo sport tuner.
mid muffler delete
cam swap (after watching a lot of videos im pretty sure I fell in love with sound of the cam swaped 5.7)

then maybe get into the world of forced induction .


any words of wisdom, im sure there are at least 100 similar posts to this but I was having trouble finding them. so links would be great!

also this is my first real post on this site so sorry in advance if its in the wrong place.
Some good insights posted so far...good reads.

The only thing I can suggest for you, OP, is plan this out. Sit down and really think about what you ultimately want to end up with, then plan the various stages that will be required to get you there. Take money, time, and practicality into account. The fewer times you have to tear your engine apart, the less money it will cost you.

If you want a cam; decide whether you want to stay N/A or go FI and let that dictate what cam you get, not some video on Youtube.

Do you want engine performance, suspension performance, drivetrain performance, or a combination of the three? Start not necessarily with the least expensive, but the ones that once done, won't require (a) upgrading again, and/or (b) having to take apart to do the next mod.

It's a money pit, don't let anyone tell you otherwise....but it's a fun money pit and one that, if you do it right the first time, will bring years of enjoyment.

Good luck!
 

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I get a great deal of satisfaction from my tech job. To keep working when I no longer need to work I think says something about how much satisfaction I get from the job, to say nothing of the money.

But I noticed the more involved the longer I worked in the tech industry the less enjoyment I got out of working on my own cars and the more I relished the time I spent in them behind the wheel. I really enjoy my 30 mile work commute as I get to spend around an hour or more a day driving one of my cars. And time permitting I really enjoy a week or two off on a long road trip. 'course recently project deadlines have prevented me from taking a week or two off but soon. While I spend a good amount of time in the car behind the wheel, I spend no time in the engine compartment or under the car.
I've been in the "high tech" industry since 1978, so I've got a few years in it. Working on my personal projects, whether it's a Harley or my Challenger IS what keeps me sane and how I unwind. It's what I do for fun. Sure, I've spent a lot of money over the years on motors and tools. I wouldn't trade for any of that money back.

I've made a few mistakes, after all I'm human, but not that many in the grand scheme of things. I do my research before I jump off the cliff. I pretty much know what the results are going to be before I start anything, that's the engineer I guess. Sometimes my results are limited by my skill, but I learn and improve, then I can redo something I'm not happy with.

Nothing wrong with being happy with what you got. But don't discourage others from trying. Like someone said, that's why we are here.

Enjoy your new RT!
 
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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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If you plan on keeping your car (like I have) then don't worry about the resell value.
First - decide how much you want to spend.
Second - is this your daily driver?
When I did the 426 swap on my Challenger it took a few months (working a few hours a day) and I had another vehicle to drive at the time.
I did just about all the bolt-ons to the 5.7 that came in the car, to include valve springs & a cam swap, the most it made was 388 to the wheels.
It pales in comparison to what the 426 makes now...not even close to the same power level.

If you have another vehicle then you can do more complex modifications, if this is your daily driver than pick upgrades you can complete in a weekend.
The only mods I did while the warranty was still in effect was deleting the resonators (6 speed), a CAI, and the skip shift.
The most noticeable gain was the 392 cam swap, that added 35hp to the ground and gave it a more aggressive sound.
The airaid CAI was worth 7, the BBK throttlebody was less than 10, the SRT8 headers added 11, the custom tune added 13.

If you want to go with a tune use HP tuners and have it done by a reputable shop. The canned tunes that come on the handhelds are relatively tame and are "one size fits most".
 
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