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Discussion Starter #1
Tomorrow I'll be trading in my 2009 R/T Auto for my long awaited IE 392 6 speed manual.

It has been 14 years since I drove a stick shift car, although my first 3 cars were all either 4 or 5 speed manuals. Of course, they were all paired with fairly slow 4 cylinder engines - no performance driving for sure.

I'm sure I'll be able to drive the 6 speed, as it should be like riding a bike; however, I've not driven a manual with 470 friggin bhp. I'm sure dropping the clutch too quickly could create some issues.

Thus, the point of my post is to solicit any tips from my CT brethren on driving the 6 speed.

- I'm sure a lot of it is just getting the feel of the clutch and throttle, but how about downshifting? Is the engine rev-limited for downshifting or do folks heel-toe it?

- I know there are a million posts on the skip shift issue - I'm not sure I understand the point of the 1-4 shift programming.

- With my older cars, I down shifted quite a bit for engine braking - I'm not planning on doing that now, as I'm sure the Brembos will do just fine.

Any (constructive) thoughts you might contribute would be great!
 

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I with the rest of them. Just don't go trying to get your faster take off on day one, and you'll get used to the clutch. It should be easier then your older 4 cylinder cars since the 392 makes good amount of torque.

as for the 1-4 skip shift. It is supposed to make the car get better gas mileage. The theory is that you apply more throttle, more gas goes in each stroke, but because there is less strokes, you aren't using too much more gas....but most importantly, since you are applying more throttle, the throttle body, opens more making the engine more efficient (struggles less for air making it more efficient). At least that is what I understand. There is also less frictional forces happening at slower engine speeds helping efficiency out.

BTW, it uses a solenoid to push the shifter toward 4th once you leave 1st. Manufacturers use this to bump fuel economy and less gas guzzler tax. The reason for this is because the EPA test based on average driving style, which seems to be around 25% throttle for acceleration, so it affects the EPA mileage for the manufactures benefit.
But it is annoying when people don't want to accelerate wildly, but want to move, it affects them. Finally, If you hyper-mile it meaning shift as soon as possible you usually will beat the EPA mileage. So, if you want good gas mileage it won't help you, but it'll affect you when you want to accelerate
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I with the rest of them. Just don't go trying to get your faster take off on day one, and you'll get used to the clutch. It should be easier then your older 4 cylinder cars since the 392 makes good amount of torque.

as for the 1-4 skip shift. It is supposed to make the car get better gas mileage. The theory is that you apply more throttle, more gas goes in each stroke, but because there is less strokes, you aren't using too much more gas....but most importantly, since you are applying more throttle, the throttle body, opens more making the engine more efficient (struggles less for air making it more efficient). At least that is what I understand. There is also less frictional forces happening at slower engine speeds helping efficiency out.

BTW, it uses a solenoid to push the shifter toward 4th once you leave 1st. Manufacturers use this to bump fuel economy and less gas guzzler tax. The reason for this is because the EPA test based on average driving style, which seems to be around 25% throttle for acceleration, so it affects the EPA mileage for the manufactures benefit.
But it is annoying when people don't want to accelerate wildly, but want to move, it affects them. Finally, If you hyper-mile it meaning shift as soon as possible you usually will beat the EPA mileage. So, if you want good gas mileage it won't help you, but it'll affect you when you want to accelerate
Thanks for the info - I'm not sweating it, but I'd rather learn from the experiences of others versus learning something the hard way. Interesting info the skip shift. I sure hope the skip shift eliminator will work for the 392 - I know they made some enhancements from 2010 but I don't think it is any too major.

Any ideas about rev-limiting for downshifts?
 

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when i test drove a 2010 6 speed it was the first time in 7 years...ive had 2 other stick drive cars(one a 125 hp Toyota truck and the other a 1990 5.0).....i had no issues whatsoever driving stick....its extremely easy compared to the other 2 ive owned...very smooth....crazy smooth!!....

dont lose any sleep...you will do just fine
 

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You shouldn't have any issues driving a 6-speed manual. It's a piece of cake.
 

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Like everyone else has said, no worries. The clutch is easy so you don't get the left leg shake like you used to with big clutches. The 5.7 has enough torque you can take off in 1, 2, or 3rd if you want. I would image the 392 could take off in 4th if you wanted to. Took me all of about 5 minutes to have my forgotten clutch days come back in flying colors.

The only thing I had to get a little used to was the hill assist and that took less than a day.
 

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.

Any ideas about rev-limiting for downshifts?
Do you mean if you down shift at to high of an RPM, it prevents over-revving of the motor? In which case no, cannot prevent that. the engine is connected directly to the rest of the drive line.

You can down-shift regularly though, for engine braking and such.

Is this what you mean? Not completely sure, mind giving a scenario?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all of the feedback. I would hope a modern clutch system would be easier - my first car was a 1975 VW Microbus. That clutch was so lousy I could pretty much change gears without it. I think that thing had an 1800 or 1600cc engine - my lawnmower probably has more power now. If I could make that thing go, I'm sure I'll be fine with the 6 speed. Can't wait!
 

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Do you mean if you down shift at to high of an RPM, it prevents over-revving of the motor? In which case no, cannot prevent that. the engine is connected directly to the rest of the drive line.

You can down-shift regularly though, for engine braking and such.

Is this what you mean? Not completely sure, mind giving a scenario?
Yes, my prior manual cars have had rev limiters for upshift but not downshifting. It would be nice to have a limiter for downshifts to avoid over-revving the engine. It will take me a bit of time to figure out downshifting from 5th or 6th at various different speeds and don't want to over-rev the engine. I'm sure I can figure it out, but was curious if this has been limited now. Seems like they have figured out enhancements like hill assist and the skip shift thing, so was hoping downshifting rev limiting would be another enhancement. Seems like it would be the most useful.
 

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Yes, my prior manual cars have had rev limiters for upshift but not downshifting. It would be nice to have a limiter for downshifts to avoid over-revving the engine. It will take me a bit of time to figure out downshifting from 5th or 6th at various different speeds and don't want to over-rev the engine. I'm sure I can figure it out, but was curious if this has been limited now. Seems like they have figured out enhancements like hill assist and the skip shift thing, so was hoping downshifting rev limiting would be another enhancement. Seems like it would be the most useful.
Some cars will use a solenoid to prevent from picking 1st gear at certain speeds. I know my 300zx does that. Never have tried to put the car in 2nd gear at more than 60 mph (which is 2nd gear limit), or any other gear after its limit. So, the car may have protection from choosing the wrong gear.

maybe someone knows?
 

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First thing you'll want to do is turn off the ESP, then put it in 2nd gear, rev to about 3500 rpm, and let the clutch out quickly....then proceed to smile.

It's easy to learn the 6 speed. Just listen to the motor sing.
 

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The Tremec TR6060's are easy to drive - the thing that most try to get used to is the hydraulic clutch is light effort (there's plenty of grip/clamping force at the clutch) - so they're not still like clutches of the past that were mechanical linkage and high pedal effort.

The clutch take-up point (not adjustable) is on the high side, but you'll get used to it pretty quickly.

The ratios are close-ratio, and since the 392 /6.4 has so much torque you'll find these V8 engines will pull quite well in the 1,500-2,000 rpm range in regular driving - no frantic shifting required like the old air-cooled VW's just to keep pace with traffic or accelerating. The new 392 is supposed to have peak torque @ 2,900 rpm (470 ft-lb!), so this will likely be a torque monster.

The 1-4 skip-shift is something you'll want to look into - its annoying and will catch you off guard. Shifting into 4th (1:1 ratio) at 20mph will kill your acceleration.

The solution is get the $18 dongle (various advertisers on this forum sell them) or go the Trinity programmer (not out for the 392 engine yet), which also eliminates the skip-shift operation.

You can't simply unplug the solenoid connector, as this will set a "check engine" fault code and turn the MIL light on.
 

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I agree with pretty much everything the others have said.
As far as downshifting, I can't imagine that you'll over-rev the engine if you downshift in order and don't skip gears (unless you're just moving very slowly to begin with.) Or at least don't skip more than one. You'll figure it out.

I found the hill-holder to be a PITA. It actually slowed me down. The first thing I did was turn it off.
 

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As far as downshifting you really can't over rev the motor. Let say if i'm going to drop a gear say in 4th going 40 and want to kick it into 2nd really quick I rev match the transmission speed with the engine speed quick clutch in rev up drop gear and clutch out. Its just a smoother transition than just dropping a gear and slamming you back too the seat.
 

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The new 392 is supposed to have peak torque @ 2,900 rpm (470 ft-lb!), so this will likely be a torque monster.
Minor correction. The 392 has 90% of peak torque available as low as 2900RPM. Peak torque still occurs at a much higher RPM. But yes, it is a torque monster.
 

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I had driven a manual a total of about 2 hours over a span of 4-8 years before purchasing my R/T 6spd. Let me tell you, for basically a straight up beginner it was easy as pie. I eased the clutch in and backed out of the drive onto the street. Put her in first revved up to 1100 and let the clutch out smoothly, a mild stutter. Floored that baby and slammed 2nd and 3rd home likeI'd been doing it my whole life. It was a bit scary feeling the @ss end come out like the rear bumper was in a race with the front bumper. But I tell you, I have never grinned like that in my life.

Over the next week I had a few (read 4 times) emberassing moments at stop lights always when facing uphill (mostly because of ignorance). I kept thinking this is no problem, I got this. Just to kill it in one of the busiest intersections of Portland, OR. I'll admit I was happy as a learner to have that hill start assist at first. After I got the hang of taking the hills though, it soon became too intrusive. You'll find yourself fighting it to leave while it's still engaged for another second causing the car to bog and die if your really not minding what you're doing.

The R/T and SRT both have baby smooth clutches. Especially in comparison to my other vehicle a 08 Ram 2500 CTD with 6spd manual. My R/T (first challenger) made me fall in love with manuals and Dodge's.

I guess that was a bit long winded.....

So
1. Don't worry about it, these manuals are cake to pick up on
2. Hill start assist may be your friend for a week or so
3. Skip shift is your BANE no matter your experience with manuals
4. I too made the upgrade from R/T to SRT you will LOVE it. (The R/T is an impressive vehicle. The SRT is feels like a whole nother car)


Good luck with the trade and happy miles to you.
 
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