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2018 Challenger R/T Scat Pack 6.4 WK
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a few questions regarding mods for my Scat Pack. Instead of posting multiple threads I’m just gonna wrap them up in one post. Some of these aren’t Scat Pack specific questions, just know that’s what I’m rolling.

Tires and Wheels:
I’m looking for summer tires to improve 0-60 (keep in mind it’s my DD not a track car, and I won’t be warming the tires up and sometimes it might be a cold morning). The stock tires suck, they are so bad, shame on Dodge. I swapped out the rear tires for a set of G-force Comp-2 in 275/40R20. While they grip way better wet and dry, I’m looking for a summer tire that will grip even better. I’m hoping to get responses from people that have put different tires on their cars and have experience with running DRs and Street Radials on the same car. Here are the options I’m looking at:
  • On the stock wheels, 275/40x20 Drag Radial on the rear. What effects will this have on handling with DRs on the rear and Street Radials on the front? Keep in mind, I’m not racing on a track, just driving on the street so the different conditions on the road are the concern.
  • On the stock wheels, 275/40x20 Ultra Summer Performance tires. Are there street radials that are proven to launch better that DRs? (remember, cold tires.)
  • Getting new, wider, wheels and going 315/35R20 DRs in the back and 275/40R20 in the front. Is there a large benefit to got from 275 to 315 on the back tires or is the real benefit going from a Street tire to a DR? Swapping to wider wheels is expensive, if the difference is marginal I'm not sure the extra cost is worth it. If the DRs aren’t getting spun and warmed up beforehand, do they still grip better than UP Street tires? (I have been looking at Nitto DRs.)
  • Or, sacrifice handling and go with 305/45R18
Tune on the 6.4l:
I hear a can tune does little but a custom tune without mods will add noticeable performance, like putting the Scat Pack into the low 12’s and sometimes into the 11’s. Can I have 2 PCMs, one with the tune and the other original stock, then swap back and forth for warranty. Or is changing the PCM back and forth difficult? Hoping to get replies rom people who have experience with tuning.


Air intake: people say it only improves throttle response but CAI manufacturers show Dyno charts with 10-15hp improvement. I’m thinking the added throttle response the are feeling is the slight bump in HP?! Or are those Dyno charts after a tune?


Adaptive learning: is it the same in Normal vs Sport or does it learn different behaviors in the different settings. For example, if I keep the car out of Sport mode for normal driving and only drive spirited in Sport mode, will the car no to run hot when I switch to sport or does it only have 1 adaptive learning mode?


If you got this far thanks for reading.
 

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Regarding the spare PCM if you think you're going to scam anyone for warranty purposes it's not gonna happen. The minute you use a different PCM a P1400 trips in the BCM. Cannot be removed. Tune at your own risk.

CAI's are a waste. Of course manufacturers are going to post improved dyno results. That's how they make their money.
 

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If the warranty means anything to you, leave the motor stock and enjoy what you have. You're not going to fool FCA if they have to check the pcm.

"Play and you pay" as the saying goes.

Don't care about the warranty, go at it.
 

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If you aren't going to run the car on the strip don't switch to DRs. Just going to 305s with the GForce should give you what you need.

Regarding the tune, its better to get a custom tune, canned tunes are ok but better to dial in the tune specific to your car. And spending close to $500 for the pcm and $300 for the tune, $3-500 for the device to load the tune for minimal gains is something to consider.

As for swapping PCMs not a good idea, as stated in previous post.

Same goes for the CAI.. the factory setup is a great setup... just go to a highlow filter, the green filter is a good one to go with IMO.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Scat Pack 6.4 WK
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Discussion Starter #6
a) If you aren't going to run the car on the strip don't switch to DRs. Just going to 305s with the GForce should give you what you need.

b) Regarding the tune, its better to get a custom tune, canned tunes are ok but better to dial in the tune specific to your car. And spending close to $500 for the pcm and $300 for the tune, $3-500 for the device to load the tune for minimal gains is something to consider.
a) That has always been something I have wondered: do DRs grip better all the time or just under the perfect conditions, which in the areas I live in "perfect conditions" is like 5% of the time (the roads are all very different every half mile or so). Sounds like there is a reason they are called "Drag" radials and "Street" radials. Also, I have heard 305s could put the car in limp mode since they are not as tall as stock. If I was going wider than 275 I would need new wheels and I would go 315 in the rear (with the right wheels they will fit) and keep the 275 in the front, staggered is fine with me.

b) I'm wanting to bump Torque to 500 at the crank without voiding warranty. It shouldn't take too much to make that happen. Making more HP through the RPMs would accomplish this without bumping peak HP. A tune could potentially do that but could void my warranty (yes, I don't want to void the crappy basic or my extended warranty), it looks like there is no work around, or at least not that anyone will divulge online. It's really lame that FCC makes such a fuss about making the car more efficient, but I also get that someone could potentially tank an engine with a bad tune. Do these same "void" exceptions apply to the extended warranty? I'm presuming they do but does anyone know for sure? (extended warranty is through CDJR.)
 

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You would have to read your warranty paperwork. I have a maxcare warranty on my scat and it's basically the same no no stuff as the factory warranty. The only mod I'll be doing to my car is a hellcat lower airbox and filter.
 

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As others have said, if you have or want to keep your warranty, you cannot tune. you cannot change out PCMs to allow a tune. doing so embeds a Pcode in several locations that cannot be removed no matter what anyone tells you. Dodge will instantly know if you take the car in for any service & they are ubber sensitve to cover warranty work on anything mdified, for good reason.
If you dont care about all that, then yes mods with tune can bump you a solid 30-50hp with basic bolts ons, more if you wish to go deeper.

The actual ET you gain however is determined by much more than simple HP. Traction, altutude, car weight, fuel, good/bad track prep, etc.

The hellcat lower air box & aircatcher tube w/ dry filter (like AEM) is the best bang for the buck hands down. Its also an OEM component, Steve White normally has them. Im a big fan of Genpartsco dips screens, they have kept alot of crap out of all my challenger's intakes over the years. Opening both headlights holes up, brings alot more air into the car and helps with the ever present heat soak issues, which results in puled timing by the pcm. If you desire more throttle response, Pedal Commander is something you might want to look into.

As for tires, a few of the more recommended brands are Michellin Piliot Sport & Sport Cup 2, Nitto 555Rs & similar, Ive had great results from the Bridgestone Potenza, whioch is what my helclat currently has and they do well given the hp and sometimes wet pavment here in WA state. Perrellis pretty much suck. 315s on a standard body can be done, but you really need to dial down applicable wheel specs to get it right, 305s seem to be the popular option without too much grief. Be aware that running staggered has a few minor drawbacks, but the more agressive stance & greater traction will be worth it.

Your adaptives reset rather frequently on thier own. They seem to over time however, default down to less agressive settings, so they need reset now & then to keep things optimal for sporty driving. To do so manually, pulling fuse #29 resets fuel trims, ODBII and something in the pcm which i cannot recall right now. Pulling fuse #31 resets trans.
I like to just yank the pos batt cable now & then. You wont loose radio presets, etc.
Also, fuel is very important. Shell nitro92 is all I run now. All premiums are not the same. Brenton at Forza Tuning turned me on to it. He has found noted gains from that particular fuel compared to others, and all of my cars I can detect a noticable improvement using it.

Last bit - buy a battery tender and use it regularly. These cars have a more agressive batt drain down issue and a decent power consumption, even when you think the car is off, its not totally off. Batt is working, so batt tender will save your bacon - often.
best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You bring up another thought I had, weight. I have a family so I need my seats but does anyone make specific lightweight parts for the Challenger? I know there are carbon fiber hoods but they don't save a lot of weight. That would just be one part of it. And I'm guessing those parts wouldn't be cheap. But if the car could loose 300-400lbs that would be a large gain.

Also, with wheels, one of my concerns was weight. The stock Scat Wheels are lightweight by design and many aftermarket wheels are twice as heavy if not more. Spun weight in the drive line (tires, wheels, axles, etc) takes more HP to push than stagnant weight. So a lightweight driveshaft and axles have potential for some gains.

Another thought was making the car lighter raises center of gravity so one might need lowering springs to bring the car back to stock hight. Am I totally incorrect about that presumption? I have experience with susspension (done lots of shocks, springs, steering racks, steering gears, bushings, control arms, etc.) but not with lightening a car.

I could lighten my car and call it "White Lightening" ? (That was a dumb joke but I'm leaving it).
 

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I managed to get my previous R/T lightened up some. Ive kept my SP and HC as delivered in this regard. Probably nothing compared to some on here that drag their car on a normal basis...but I figured I lost around 200-225lbs in the R/T by just removing certain things, back seat for example was 40lbs, spare, jack, etc was another 60. wheels certainly..even some tires can weight a few lbs more or less depending on manf. Carbon fiber stuff is spendy. yes, very. as in thousands of $$ to save a few lbs, never seemed worth it to me, but again, more harcore guys a few lbs removed can be a huge benefit and the looks cant be beat.
One added point on weight is, when you remove weight the car will sit higher. noticably so. I also developed a bad case of rear wheel hop from doing so, plus uncomfortable wheel well gap, I went with mopar stage 1 springs for a time and that put it back down more or less to stock hieght. The only cure for the wheel hop was to add wieght back in...
 
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