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Discussion Starter #1
My '10 R/T has about 36k miles on it. At what point would it be too unsafe to put a S/C on it? Am I already at that point? I would ideally not want to buy a new motor as well, but figured it is good to know this upfront.
 

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Obviously the higher the mileage the more risk you take with forced induction so it really boils down to how the engine was taken care of and what condition it's in now. i.e. Oil changed regularly?, how was it driven for its 36k miles?, does it run good?, does it use Oil and if so, how much?, etc. You should be OK, but I would ask myself those questions before I slapped an air pump on top of the engine and force feed it. Just saying..
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Obviously the higher the mileage the more risk you take with forced induction so it really boils down to how the engine was taken care of and what condition it's in now. i.e. Oil changed regularly?, how was it driven for its 36k miles?, does it run good?, does it use Oil and if so, how much?, etc. You should be OK, but I would ask myself those questions before I slapped an air pump on top of the engine and force feed it. Just saying..
Yeah those are really good questions, luckily for me this thing has been and will always be pampered. Most people think this baby is a 2014 from the looks of it. Now the question is which route do I go, Mag or KB?
 

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There's an argument that more miles would be better, my buddy put a KB on his 113k mile 6.1. He made 500rwhp. More miles on the motor means you have a seasoned block with more heat cycles and tolerances are more forgiving ( lower compression) allowing for expansion and contraction of rings etc.

The best part is if you did pop your motor , you got your money worth out of factory engine. Look at the guys that pop a motor when there at 8k miles . You would feel like sh!t then.

KB or Maggie? Depends if you want to go fast and make power. I dont think I've seen one Maggie in the 9s or make over 750 whp with one power adder. The KB would be much better long term if you wanted to go high boost later or up the displacement . WYGOSLW loves his Maggie but he's a P#ssy. LOL
 

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Ask yourself what you can afford. Can you afford to upgrade your motor for adding a SC or, if (when) your motor pops, can you afford to fix it?
 

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There's an argument that more miles would be better, my buddy put a KB on his 113k mile 6.1. He made 500rwhp. More miles on the motor means you have a seasoned block with more heat cycles and tolerances are more forgiving ( lower compression) allowing for expansion and contraction of rings etc.

I've heard this too. I'm just leary of the crappy oem pistons
 

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There's an argument that more miles would be better, my buddy put a KB on his 113k mile 6.1. He made 500rwhp. More miles on the motor means you have a seasoned block with more heat cycles and tolerances are more forgiving ( lower compression) allowing for expansion and contraction of rings etc.

I've heard this too. I'm just leary of the crappy oem pistons
From what I've been hearing (at least on the 392), it's not the OEM pistons that are unusually weak, but the OEM rings aren't left with enough end gap to allow for expansion under heat and pressure. The ends of the top ring meet and bind, seize against the cylinder wall, and then the top ring land pops.

It would be awesome if someone could test this theory by pulling all the stock slugs, gapping the rings properly, and reinstalling them with FI. Unfortunately, I doubt anyone will dive into the motor deep enough to do this without replacing the OEM pistons with drop-ins.
 

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This has been done successfully with the 6.1
It may just be me but if the motor is out why not replace the pistons with forged. The 3mm top ring land is sketchy to me
From what I've been hearing (at least on the 392), it's not the OEM pistons that are unusually weak, but the OEM rings aren't left with enough end gap to allow for expansion under heat and pressure. The ends of the top ring meet and bind, seize against the cylinder wall, and then the top ring land pops.

It would be awesome if someone could test this theory by pulling all the stock slugs, gapping the rings properly, and reinstalling them with FI. Unfortunately, I doubt anyone will dive into the motor deep enough to do this without replacing the OEM pistons with drop-ins.
 

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This has been done successfully with the 6.1
It may just be me but if the motor is out why not replace the pistons with forged. The 3mm top ring land is sketchy to me

Only one reason... $$$
 

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WYGOSLW loves his Maggie but he's a P#ssy. LOL
That's it, I'm driving to your house and kicking your a$$.. :fight: :fight: :fight: :fight:
 

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This has been done successfully with the 6.1
It may just be me but if the motor is out why not replace the pistons with forged. The 3mm top ring land is sketchy to me

Only one reason... $$$
Yeah but it's cheaper before the pistons grenade than after. I wish I would have done it that way
 
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