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I have a 2017 R/T, 6 speed manual with the "Super Track Pack."

I wanted to keep it pretty factory, but do a few bolt on mods to get the horsepower in the low 400's or make it more fun to drive.

I was thinking--

1. K&N Blackhawk High-flow cold air intake (seems like a good bang for the buck.)

Then what, what should be items two and three?

Thanks
 

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I would do a LegMaker Cold Air Intake (check the vendor forum). Then I would do a catch can (Speedlogix). After that, port the throttle body, then top it all off with a dyno tune. Once that's done, run AcesIV and you'll be pleased as punch.
 

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I would do a LegMaker Cold Air Intake (check the vendor forum). Then I would do a catch can (Speedlogix). After that, port the throttle body, then top it all off with a dyno tune. Once that's done, run AcesIV and you'll be pleased as punch.
Will the tune and the port job break his warranty. He never answered that question. I would imagine he wouldn't want to do that. And btw. what is AcesIV?
Just wondering.
 

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Will the tune and the port job break his warranty. He never answered that question. I would imagine he wouldn't want to do that. And btw. what is AcesIV?
Just wondering.
He can easily remove the throttle body and tune for warranty work. AcesIV is fuel treatment that actually works. I have ZERO knock in my tables and my car runs better than anyone I've come across. Vinny32 on here got to drive my car and swears that my car is as fast (or faster) than his 6.1 was stock.
 

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No one has said exhaust... It aint a muscle car till it sounds like one (in my opinion anyway).

Cold air intake (your preference).
Exhaust (your preference but just do a muffler swap and/or reso delete rather than a catback and save some money) (fyi anything done after the cats wont hurt your warranty).
Skip shift eliminator for the 6spd
(I will tell you get a catch can as well, wont void warranty and you can do it yourself easily, cost is minimal)

If you have the money get it dynoed after and you should be pretty happy all around with the car, sound and performance.
 

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LMI true cold air intake, tinted my red and orange reflectors with VHT Nightshade paint, Catch Can from Speedlogix.
 

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No one has said exhaust... It aint a muscle car till it sounds like one (in my opinion anyway).

Cold air intake (your preference).
Exhaust (your preference but just do a muffler swap and/or reso delete rather than a catback and save some money) (fyi anything done after the cats wont hurt your warranty).
Skip shift eliminator for the 6spd
(I will tell you get a catch can as well, wont void warranty and you can do it yourself easily, cost is minimal)

If you have the money get it dynoed after and you should be pretty happy all around with the car, sound and performance.
To be fair, I didn't mention exhaust because they don't gain you power until you change the manifolds. The LegMaker intake is the only one that does anything for performance unless you do the HellCat headlight conversion.
 

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He can easily remove the throttle body and tune for warranty work. AcesIV is fuel treatment that actually works. I have ZERO knock in my tables and my car runs better than anyone I've come across. Vinny32 on here got to drive my car and swears that my car is as fast (or faster) than his 6.1 was stock.
Cant easily remove the tune. To get a tune requires a cracked pcm. And when you swap out the pcm the other computer in the car flags it and the dealer can see that it's been changed. Even if you change it back.

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1. Skip shift eliminator
2. Barton shifter
3. Clutch delay valve removal.
4. Rear suspension upgrades to reduce wheel hop. (Spohn trailing arms and control arms cured about 90% of my wheel hop).
These are my top 4 things to do first IMO.
 

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1. Cold Air Intake - JLT (Great air induction sound and small performance gain)
2. Hotchkis springs (All Challengers sit too high)
3. Hotchkis swaybars (Dramatically reduces body roll for improved handling)
4. Mopar or Barton Short Throw Shifter (Quicker and smoother shifts)
5. Billet Technology Catch Can (Protects engine for longer performance life)
 

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Cant easily remove the tune. To get a tune requires a cracked pcm. And when you swap out the pcm the other computer in the car flags it and the dealer can see that it's been changed. Even if you change it back.

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You're over thinking it. You can store your stock or dyno tune on a handheld tuner and witch back and forth between tunes as needed.
 

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You're over thinking it. You can store your stock or dyno tune on a handheld tuner and witch back and forth between tunes as needed.
I understand that. My point was the dealer will be able to tell if you swap it out. But that only matters if you care about warranty work.

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I understand that. My point was the dealer will be able to tell if you swap it out. But that only matters if you care about warranty work.

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I've got 60k miles on my car and I've been tuned for 30K, never once have the dealer taken any interest in it. IDK, I guess it depends what dealer it is but I can see your concern. Valid point, I suppose.
 

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I've got 60k miles on my car and I've been tuned for 30K, never once have the dealer taken any interest in it. IDK, I guess it depends what dealer it is but I can see your concern. Valid point, I suppose.
And they won't unless you claim an engine or drive train failure under warranty. I was just merely letting the OP know that was a possibility.

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