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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I currently own a 2010 SE, looking to trade in and get a used automatic r/t very soon.

Is there anything I should look out for? When I bought my 2010 se I didnt know the 2011 had 50 more horses, that sucked big time. Trying to do a little more homework this go around.

I'm most likely going to buy a 2010-2012, are there any notable differences between the years? Whether interior, exterior, under the hood. Anything I should look out for?

I do plan on modding a bit, I have the diablo intune that i've been using with my SE (helped the car out a lot, hoping it will do the same for an r/t?)

thanks!
 

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There was a major suspension refresh, and some interior changes in 2011, including a smaller steering wheel. I'd probably stick to 2011 or newer, help retain value as well. Ask your self if you want a bit more robust suspension, a bit more jarring over bumps, look for a STP car if you do. STP also allows you to turn the traction control all the way off, which may or may not be a good idea, depending. A sun roof really open up that dark interior- Love mine!
 
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I'd say the most important thing is to get a 2012 built after 11/11. supposedly these Automatic R/T's have the newer TC components.

the Super Track Pac cars feel better to me, you can look up what all it adds but they handle better, and like said before me... offer a slightly stiffer ride. I will say the 2012's with STP I drove were not as stiff as my 2013 I ordered so ...I also suggest the heavy duty rear axle, Anti-Spin (Getrag) not a huge deal and I was surprised at how many don't come with it.

I wanted at least the R/T Plus level to get the Leather interior and all the electronic goodies, and some are ordered with HID headlamps.. I had to have those.

the R/T Classics come with HID's in 2012 standard along with the interior and goodies of the R/T Plus and some stripes and badges. the color I ordered wasn't available on the R/T plus but everything else was (except choice of wheels) so I had to order the Classic to get what I wanted.

I also had to have the Sunroof, although I almost never open it but I do like the light it lets in even closed.

the Sound Group 2 was like $1295 new, but used it may not really change the price much and it's pretty nice ..although my U-Connect 130 does all the hands free calling, voice control and sounds pretty good so I'm happy with that.

I researched the R/T's pretty carefully before I purchased because I didn't want to say.. ooh, I wish I'd gotten that. exactly what happened on the car I bought in 2010 so I just ordered what I wanted.

good luck.:thumbsup:
 
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Early automatic trans cars may experience timing chain failures. You might want to do some research on this. There is a long running thread on the subject in the General Discussion/Problems forum. 6-speeds do not have this issue.
 

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"Anything I should look out for?".........AN SRT! LOL:saythat:
 

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Get ALL service records to make sure it was well maintained

Have a reliable mechanic check it out top to bottom to ensure it's quality

Look for an R/T with the Super Track Package, very nice handling/braking upgrade for these overweight cars

Color is one of the most important options, you'll be looking at it every day! Choose wisely. :cheers:
 

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"Anything I should look out for?".........AN SRT! LOL:saythat:
The other thing you have to watch out for is SRT owners dissing R/T. Something I just can't wrap my brain around. :dunno:
 
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The other thing you have to watch out for is SRT owners dissing R/T. Something I just can't wrap my brain around. :dunno:
Yeah, some funny $hit that.

Speaking of cubic dollars, which was not the point of the thread. Any SRT Challenger owners go up against a SRT Viper yet?

shaddup or add something relevant.

OP. Overall condition and maintenance records. Tell them you want to see it up on a lift to inspect the underside for leaks or abuse. Extensively test drive with the stereo off and listen to the car. Check out all systems and be sure everything functions as you would expect. It is a used car and visual as well as functional assessment will clue you in as to whether it is a good one.

Last but not least, ask for the previous owner's contact information and talk to that person!

If the car is a good one and the dealer knows you are serious about it they will give you a name and number.
 

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Also...your Diablo tuner - that will work for the '08 - '10 cars.

The '11 went to a different PCM, so that would require a different model of tuner , especially if you have an Intune I-1000 that you're using.

The '11 models went through suspension updates/ revisions - if you can find a Super Track Pack (code AWD) you'll get the better suspension setup. Also, the anti-spin diff was optional on automatics...another plus to look for.
 

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The other thing you have to watch out for is SRT owners dissing R/T. Something I just can't wrap my brain around. :dunno:
I owned a '10 PCP Classic, which was an awesome car! I don't dis R/T's at all. It was meant in jest, so don't take it seriously.:icon_aetsch:
 

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I owned a '10 PCP Classic, which was an awesome car! I don't dis R/T's at all. It was meant in jest, so don't take it seriously.
Apology accepted. :twak:

Peace out.
 

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I'd say the most important thing is to get a 2012 built after 11/11. supposedly these Automatic R/T's have the newer TC components. . . .
.........^^^^^^^^^^^^
...............This
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys, appreciate all the feedback. I've decided to lease a brand new r/t rather than buy a used.

My next question is, how do I get a nice, low rear gear on my order?

For some reason the online builder says it is going to deduct a 3.90-something gearing if I add the STP? I would like a 3.64 or the 3.90. What option determines this?
 

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Thanks guys, appreciate all the feedback. I've decided to lease a brand new r/t rather than buy a used.

My next question is, how do I get a nice, low rear gear on my order?

For some reason the online builder says it is going to deduct a 3.90-something gearing if I add the STP? I would like a 3.64 or the 3.90. What option determines this?
STP with 6-speed will get you the 3.92, with the automatic you get a 3.06 no matter what.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ah ok thanks, yeah i'm definitely going with the anti slip. And thanks for the heads up about the tuner.

Alright, so if i'm going to go with a lower ratio and keep the automatic im obviously going to need to do it myself after the fact. When I was going to keep my SE, I was planning on doing a carrier/pumpkin swap with a 3.64 geared car and keep my 198mm axles. Would the same pumpkin work with the r/t or does it have different axles requiring a different pumpkin?

Does the r/t have the same axles? or would it require a different carrier
 

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ah ok thanks, yeah i'm definitely going with the anti slip. And thanks for the heads up about the tuner.

Alright, so if i'm going to go with a lower ratio and keep the automatic im obviously going to need to do it myself after the fact. When I was going to keep my SE, I was planning on doing a carrier/pumpkin swap with a 3.64 geared car and keep my 198mm axles. Would the same pumpkin work with the r/t or does it have different axles requiring a different pumpkin?

Does the r/t have the same axles? or would it require a different carrier
I'm just curious here, but how are you going to be doing major mods on a rented car?
 

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I would suggest you drive the A5 R/T with the Anti-Spin Getrag H/D axle before you plan to lower the axle ratio.

I was positive mine came with a lower ratio than 3.06 because on the highway at 60mph the RPMs are just over 2K. I don't really understand how this all works but my 3.42 gear in my pickup turns about 1600-1700 at 60 mph. I guess it's in the final drive, the 5 speed auto feels similar to the first 5 gears in the manual with 3.92 ratio we're just missing that last gear. (not exactly, just making a point it feels lower than it claims) someone said in 6th gear they would have to be going 85mph or so to be at 2k rpms vs just almost 60mph in the A5.

to answer your question, I'm not sure where you'll find a 3.64 geared Challenger but I bet the axles would not be the same. I was under the impression that 3.06 auto, and 3.73 (18" wheel) 6M, and 3.92 (20" wheel) 6M, was all that comes on R/T, R/T Plus, and R/T Classics..

the first dealer I talked to said I could get a 3.92 ratio on special order with the A5 "no problem do it all the time"
but azz usual he had no idea what he was talking about and personally I'm glad I couldn't get it, I really can't imagine what 3.92 ratio would feel like on the highway as low as it feels with 3.06 and the gearing of the A5 transmission.

things to think about. good luck with your choices.
 
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