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Discussion Starter #1
Hi - I've been quite surprised at how much wheel hop I have on my lowered 17 SPS with 315 Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires on the rears. Been doing my research - looks like new poly cradle bushings, hop not/cradle locking kits, and trailing arms may help.

On the trailing arms - I see non-adjustable, single adjustable, and fully adjustable options. With my Eibach Pro Kit lowering kit and my 275/315 staggered combo - should I still be ok with non adjustable?

Any other suggestions on solving wheel hop without adding a lot of NVH issues? I'd prefer to not get into an expensive drop the cradle & replace the bushings project as well.

This is just for street driving too. Just trying to get off the line smoother.

Thanks
 

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Look at the cradle bushing lock out from bmr



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I just went through this, but you'll need the adjustable to align your rear end with a lowering kit. I upgraded to Whiteline Cradle Bushings, BMR upper control arms, forward control arms, and trailing arms. No more wheel hop when it's dry, but I do get some when it is raining. Not as bad as before, but it is still there. The lockout kit is good if you want to go for a cheaper and much less labor intense way to lock in the cradle bushings. I do have a BMR Lockout kit for a decent price if anyone is interested in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! So the lockout kit is a lot less labor than cradle bushing replacement? I thought you still had to drop the cradle for the lockout kit?

Joe - how is the NVH after installing all of those parts?
 

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Thanks guys! So the lockout kit is a lot less labor than cradle bushing replacement? I thought you still had to drop the cradle for the lockout kit?
It doesn't have to be removed. There is a ring that goes on the upper side of the cradle bushing which will require all 4 bolts loosened and the cradle lowered some. As long as you can squeeze the ring in, the cradle doesn't need to come out. I have heard of guys loosening one side and getting enough wiggle room to put the ring in. All the ring does is fill in a small gap on the upper side of the bushing. When I was going to install the kit, I wasn't going to mess with getting those rings in. When I got down and took a look around, I found I had a cradle bushing completely chewed up. So I bit the bullet and paid a buddy of mine to replace them. Lock out kit is a much cheaper alternate because labor, special tools, and new bushings will run $1k+.
 

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Thanks guys! So the lockout kit is a lot less labor than cradle bushing replacement? I thought you still had to drop the cradle for the lockout kit?

Joe - how is the NVH after installing all of those parts?
I won't lie, their is a noticeable increase in sound in the cabin. Of course the differential howling doesn't help. I daily my Scat Pack and the sound doesn't bother me much. It gets annoying around 50 MPH, but it's not bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Joe. I’m assuming the arms have the least nvh impact, the lockout kits are 2nd worst and the cradle bushings the worst.

I was hoping that I could solve my wheel hop issues on the street with just the arms. Not sure if that’s possible.
 

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Among everything already mentioned, a diff brace helps tie everything together too. In all honesty, I did Bmr solid motor mounts(good amount of NVH), a diff brace and a pair of 315/50/17 MT ET R’s and my wheel hop is pretty much non existent. I have a pair of Bmr solid cradle bushings to go in, but I may just hold off. I still have all stock upper, lower, and trailing arms and no hop , and that’s on the street, so I’m pretty happy with that. If your lowered on the eibach you may want the adjustable arms, but you can also adjust camber slightly with a set of camber bushings.
So the cheap route would be a diff brace and adjustable camber bushings to zero out your camber, and see how she feels... I think the lockout kit is next on the list. Then I’d move on all of the arms if you’re not satisfied. My .02


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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like the TBA is only for Hellcats and Demons. I see the per4mance diff braces are popular too. They offer 3 options - DIRS, Billet, and Standard. For a Scat Pack that's only mod is being lowered - any thoughts on which of the 3 I'd need for street driving only?
https://www.getper4mance.com/
 

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Looks like the TBA is only for Hellcats and Demons. I see the per4mance diff braces are popular too. They offer 3 options - DIRS, Billet, and Standard. For a Scat Pack that's only mod is being lowered - any thoughts on which of the 3 I'd need for street driving only?
https://www.getper4mance.com/
Standard brace is good enough for the stock scat pack. If you are planning power mods for the future, it won't hurt to upgrade to a heavier duty version.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Cool - I can see how the diff brace could be the cheapest way to attach the hop issue.

One question on the camber bushings - I attached my alignment result below after installing the Eibachs. Anything you can see or determine if the camber bushings would be beneficial? The other concern is if I add more positive camber I could rub the tire on the fender.

980118

6D6FD057-E747-45E0-B64E-FC8564B2CC48.jpeg
980126
0E53B4D6-1709-4D7C-B78A-0AE07E32AFE5.jpeg
 

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The bushings are good for 1.5* in either direction , so I’d think they’d get you close to zero depending how you want the car set up. Some guys like a little camber for handling, I’m more of a straight line kinda guy. The hellcat and scatpack share the same diff. I run the TBA on my scatpack(426 ported heads/cam/3.70/30”tire). I like it , I think it’s a bit better than the og per4 brace , and not nearly as expensive as their high end model.


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Discussion Starter #15
Regarding the TBA diff brace - anything in particular you like better about it beyond the price?

I emailed Per4mance and they recommended their middle model - their Billet brace. I was impressed by the fact the owner responded immediately to me on a Saturday afternoon.
 

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Our rear tension arms are currently on sale, you save $150.88!


We also have a package deal on tension arms and rear control arms.


The parts listed above are great options to help reduce / eliminate rear wheel hop. I know the feeling, it was awful on my SRT Challenger.

- Alexis
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks Alexis. As mentioned and pictured above my Challenger is lowered so I think I need adjustable arms. How do your arms impact NVH?

I had also planned to do the camber bushings instead of the arms. However I’m curious if the bushings are a longer install than the arms? Do you have estimates install times for each?

FYI I posted my current alignment specs above as well.
 

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I got completely rid of wheel hop with White Line cradle bushings and sway bars, although I don't think the sway bars had anything to do with it. I just changed all of it at the same time.
 

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Regarding the TBA diff brace - anything in particular you like better about it beyond the price?

I emailed Per4mance and they recommended their middle model - their Billet brace. I was impressed by the fact the owner responded immediately to me on a Saturday afternoon.
At the time, p4d only had the one brace available. So I liked the TBA. That middle model does look like a nice piece. Customer service certainly goes a long way too!


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Discussion Starter #20
Just curious what everyone thinks of my alignment specs and if they're causing a good portion of my wheel hop issues.. The shop said everything looked good, but now that I look at it, there's quite a lot of negative camber going on. Even worse on the front. These are 275/40/20 tires on front, 315/35/20 on rears so I imagine some negative camber is necessary to avoid hitting the fenders?

980207
alignment.jpeg
 
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