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Those are within spec , but if you’re looking to address wheel hop you can go a little less in the rears.


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Discussion Starter #23
Received the Billet brace from Per4mance this evening. I don’t have anything to compare it against but it sure seems like a super high quality part. Shipped same day and was packed perfectly. Instructions look very clear at first glance. Look forward to installing it soon :)

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ShakerScat, please post your findings/results after the install. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Will do - I’m still deliberating on adding the trailing arms at the same time. Specifically these ones from AAD performance with delrin spherical bushings that seem to be viewed very highly on the Hellcat forum.

Interestingly AAD advised against using adjustable trailing arms as they could bind up the entire suspension unless you adjust the lower control arm the proper matching amount (it’s not a linear match either).

They also advised the spherical bushing have a stiffer ride but won’t squeak like poly.

AAD tension arms
 

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Just curious what everyone thinks of my alignment specs and if they're causing a good portion of my wheel hop issues.. The shop said everything looked good, but now that I look at it, there's quite a lot of negative camber going on. Even worse on the front. These are 275/40/20 tires on front, 315/35/20 on rears so I imagine some negative camber is necessary to avoid hitting the fenders?

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Rear end Camber spec is -.75* +/- .55* so -1.7 and -1.9 are kind of high depending on what your trying to accomplish. My car stock had rear camber of .7 and 1.5 which produced very high wear on the inside of the drag radials. I replaced the stock control arms with Spohn adjustable arms and had camber set to zero. Car has been raced twice since, once on a very poorly prepped track and once on a well prepped track, did not experience wheel hop on either. Wear on drag radials is even now, burn outs are much smoother, car launches harder, goes straighter. Also drives better in normal driving but I don't hit turns real hard.

Since your car is lowered I don't know if any of this is relevant.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks Rob. I'm not sure how much fender clearance I'll have if I get the camber closer to 0. But you're starting to make me think that perhaps I should invest in the rear control arms instead of the trailing arms.
 

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Spherical bushings wont squeek...but they do rattle to hell. Now if they are lined with delrin and not teflon, that might be different.

Fyi i have solid sway bar links with spherical bushings front and rear and they rattle like hell, as designed. Cant comment on the parts you are looking at though
 

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Rear end Camber spec is -.75* +/- .55* so -1.7 and -1.9 are kind of high depending on what your trying to accomplish. My car stock had rear camber of .7 and 1.5 which produced very high wear on the inside of the drag radials. I replaced the stock control arms with Spohn adjustable arms and had camber set to zero. Car has been raced twice since, once on a very poorly prepped track and once on a well prepped track, did not experience wheel hop on either. Wear on drag radials is even now, burn outs are much smoother, car launches harder, goes straighter. Also drives better in normal driving but I don't hit turns real hard.

Since your car is lowered I don't know if any of this is relevant.
I must have been looking at front wheel specs I was thinking -1.9 was a min :(
So he can definitely afford to bring them back a little bit and pick up some better contact:)


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Discussion Starter #30
Ok thanks guys.

Regarding the trailing arms this was the bushing explanation:

These arms are also offered with our sweet new teflon impregnated delrin spherical bearing ends, which reduce deflection and compliance, and are fully rebuildable!
 

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Ok thanks guys.

Regarding the trailing arms this was the bushing explanation:

These arms are also offered with our sweet new teflon impregnated delrin spherical bearing ends, which reduce deflection and compliance, and are fully rebuildable!
Yes delrin is a very good self-lubricating material. But i would still contact the company about the NVH. Have to remember, these is always a cost
 

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Thanks Rob. I'm not sure how much fender clearance I'll have if I get the camber closer to 0. But you're starting to make me think that perhaps I should invest in the rear control arms instead of the trailing arms.
My first attempt to improve traction was addition of BMR non adjustable trailing arms and a Per4ormance Development differential brace. The car felt more connected but I don't have any meaningful data. When I realized the extend of uneven wear on the drag radials I felt there was a significant gain to be had by getting closer to zero camber. Talking to my buddy who builds drag race cars for a living and Challengertalk member Solidman convinced me there was no downside to zero camber on my car so decided to install a complete set of adjustable control arm.

Everyone I talked to advised to avoid steel spherical rod ends for street use. I looked at AAD and Spohn products with delrin bushings, selected Spohn due to lower price and didn't need the adjustment capability that AAD provided. I have a slightly used pair of BMR trailing arms if you decide to go that way.
 
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